By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Niamh_Jones]Niamh Jones
It can often be hard to find the right bits for ponies. It is hard for two reasons and these are that not only does the bit have to fit and be comfortable for the pony to wear but you have to consider how their young jockeys ride too.
If you have young children and are in the process of teaching them to ride, you will know that it is hard for them to understand how to ride 'properly' - that is to use their weight, seat and legs to control their ponies.
You will also know how young riders do have a tendency to pull on their pony's mouths, use their reins to help them keep their balance whilst they are riding or how they can pull too hard on one rein which causes the bit to slip straight through their pony's mouths. This can be a result of tension and nervousness on the part of the children as much as inexperience.
Unfortunately, the results can sometimes be disastrous for both the young riders and their mounts. It is a scenario that we have seen happen all too often and there are many ponies who take full advantage of the situation by unseating their jockeys when it does - and who can blame them when they are in discomfort or even pain?
There are some great bits for ponies on the market these days which are specifically designed to prevent this from happening, for example Neue Schule bits. The other thing to remember is that many young riders do tend to have heavy hands, so when choosing a bit for a pony, you must bear this in mind.
Of course you need to know that the rider will be able to stop the pony too, so finding a bit for ponies which is soft on the mouth yet gives enough control to the young rider is of paramount importance.
The most important thing about finding the right bits for ponies is to make sure that they actually fit them. The most common problem with bits for ponies is that often they are either too big or too small. The size and shape of the bit required will also depend a lot on their breeding and hence shape of their head and mouth. For example, a Shetland pony will have a very differently shaped mouth to, say, an Arab or fine Welsh Section B.
Keep in mind all these factors as well as the use of the pony (for example, some bits are not allowed in certain showing and dressage classes) and you will be well on the way to finding the right bit for your pony.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Find-the-Right-Bits-for-Ponies&id=6526360] How to Find the Right Bits for Ponies
Friday, December 30, 2011
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Moody Mares and PMS Type Symptoms
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Rive]Jackie Rive
Have you ever wondered what nature has in its medicine chest for moody mares? Often when we look at our mares that present with "mareish" behaviour we don't immediately relate it to the human symptoms of pre-menstrual tension, but in fact it is very similar.
Just like humans, mares can suffer from hormonal issues which can cause very unpleasant behaviour. In fact it can be quite dangerous if not well managed. Squealing, biting, kicking and general moodiness on a cyclic basis is a possible sign that your mare is suffering from hormonal issues.
Again just like people the symptoms can be quite painful and cause your moody mare to be quite upset. PMS affects an estimated 30-50 per cent of women in their childbearing years and who knows how many of our horses. The symptoms appear approximately two weeks before the menstrual period begins but luckily nature has provided some wonderful herbs designed to help regulate the hormones and can help reduce a lot of the pain and anxiety associated with this condition.
Chaste Tree is an herb that has been well studied and research has found it to be very effective in the treatment of hormonal issues. Although it is still unclear what exactly causes the hormonal issues, fluctuations seem to be what causes the unpleasant symptoms. It is therefore thought that by regulating the hormones you can help relieve the symptoms.
It has been shown that by taking Chaste tree over a period of months you can help regulate the hormones in your mare and help ease the nasty cramps and irritable moodiness. Chaste tree is said to imitate estrogens and progesterone because of its phyto-hormonal actions and a German study found chaste tree to be more effective than Vitamin B6 for PMS.
Other herbs that can be really useful for aggressive hormonal mares are Chamomile and Vervain which are relaxing herbs that will ease away stomach cramps that are making your horse oversensitive to the touch. Chamomile will soothe the nerves and help with general discomfort. All these herbs can be fed in a dried form or you can find them in a more concentrated liquid form.
Chamomile is a safe, gentle and effective digestive tonic plus a mild sedative, which eases griping pains. Traditionally used to calm tension and stress. It is also said to be an effective painkiller and anti-inflammatory for arthritis, rheumatism and general aches and pains. Chamomile contains potassium for general healing.
Chamomile is one of the most highly researched herbs and probably the first herb to reach for in the case of mild stomach upsets caused by nervousness or hyperactivity. Chamomile serves to ease any nervous spasms in the digestive tract and helps to expel gas and improve digestion.
Be patient when using herbs to treat your horses. It is not a quick fix but an effective, natural fix. Allow a good few months to see a difference in your mare. Also know that you are utilising the power of Mother Nature when feeding herbs to your horses, without the side effects of synthetic medicines. Bring tranquillity to your mare today with wonderful healing herbs.
If you would like to learn more about using herbs for your horses and get your free herbal guide please visit [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz.
Also to learn more about Brookby Herbs "Steady Mare " formula for moody mares visit [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347550]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347550.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Moody-Mares-and-PMS-Type-Symptoms&id=6602790] Moody Mares and PMS Type Symptoms
Have you ever wondered what nature has in its medicine chest for moody mares? Often when we look at our mares that present with "mareish" behaviour we don't immediately relate it to the human symptoms of pre-menstrual tension, but in fact it is very similar.
Just like humans, mares can suffer from hormonal issues which can cause very unpleasant behaviour. In fact it can be quite dangerous if not well managed. Squealing, biting, kicking and general moodiness on a cyclic basis is a possible sign that your mare is suffering from hormonal issues.
Again just like people the symptoms can be quite painful and cause your moody mare to be quite upset. PMS affects an estimated 30-50 per cent of women in their childbearing years and who knows how many of our horses. The symptoms appear approximately two weeks before the menstrual period begins but luckily nature has provided some wonderful herbs designed to help regulate the hormones and can help reduce a lot of the pain and anxiety associated with this condition.
Chaste Tree is an herb that has been well studied and research has found it to be very effective in the treatment of hormonal issues. Although it is still unclear what exactly causes the hormonal issues, fluctuations seem to be what causes the unpleasant symptoms. It is therefore thought that by regulating the hormones you can help relieve the symptoms.
It has been shown that by taking Chaste tree over a period of months you can help regulate the hormones in your mare and help ease the nasty cramps and irritable moodiness. Chaste tree is said to imitate estrogens and progesterone because of its phyto-hormonal actions and a German study found chaste tree to be more effective than Vitamin B6 for PMS.
Other herbs that can be really useful for aggressive hormonal mares are Chamomile and Vervain which are relaxing herbs that will ease away stomach cramps that are making your horse oversensitive to the touch. Chamomile will soothe the nerves and help with general discomfort. All these herbs can be fed in a dried form or you can find them in a more concentrated liquid form.
Chamomile is a safe, gentle and effective digestive tonic plus a mild sedative, which eases griping pains. Traditionally used to calm tension and stress. It is also said to be an effective painkiller and anti-inflammatory for arthritis, rheumatism and general aches and pains. Chamomile contains potassium for general healing.
Chamomile is one of the most highly researched herbs and probably the first herb to reach for in the case of mild stomach upsets caused by nervousness or hyperactivity. Chamomile serves to ease any nervous spasms in the digestive tract and helps to expel gas and improve digestion.
Be patient when using herbs to treat your horses. It is not a quick fix but an effective, natural fix. Allow a good few months to see a difference in your mare. Also know that you are utilising the power of Mother Nature when feeding herbs to your horses, without the side effects of synthetic medicines. Bring tranquillity to your mare today with wonderful healing herbs.
If you would like to learn more about using herbs for your horses and get your free herbal guide please visit [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz.
Also to learn more about Brookby Herbs "Steady Mare " formula for moody mares visit [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347550]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347550.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Moody-Mares-and-PMS-Type-Symptoms&id=6602790] Moody Mares and PMS Type Symptoms
Monday, December 26, 2011
Navicular in Horses
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Rive]Jackie Rive
Navicular syndrome in horses is a bit of an unclear issue which has vets disagreeing at times. Unfortunately when horse owners receive this diagnosis they are given little hope for recovery. Luckily Mother Nature has provided us with some wonderful herbs to help ease the symptoms.
Navicular in horses may initially present itself as intermittent lameness and your horse may stumble a lot when trotting. Diagnosis can be achieved with x-rays. The navicular bone is a small bone in the foot of the horse and it is part of the bony skeleton of the leg, It is held in place by ligaments.
Foot problems account for 90% of all lameness and it is extremely important to take good care of your horse's feet. Navicular Syndrome can be caused by poor shoeing and weak circulation, correction of both is critical to the improvement of this condition.
When a horse is lame and the foot is thought to be the issue, it is important to eliminate other possible causes. A stone bruise or a crack in the coffin bone could be to blame and an x-ray will usually show the problem.
There are a few issues which may mean your horse has a stronger predisposition to navicular syndrome. Some breeds are more likely to get it and the size of the foot may have a bearing. The smaller the foot on a large horse, the more likelihood of problems. Also the type of activity the horse is involved in. Barrel racing can be particularly stressful on the foot.
If your horse is diagnosed with navicular, there are some very useful herbs you can easily feed. Inflammation is a particular problem so herbs such as Devil's Claw are great for this. Devil's Claw will help reduce inflammation and pain without giving a false impression to the horse so he won't over exert himself.
Devil's Claw is native to Africa. The root is used for arthritis as it relieves rheumatism and other painful joint disorders. It is also considered a painkiller and has proven to be comparable to cortisone and phenybutazone or bute which is commonly used in this situation. Do not give to mares in foal as it may induce contractions and do not use when gastric ulcers are present.
Circulation is another important issue with navicular and Hawthorn is a great herb for strengthening the heart muscle and increasing the circulation. In Germany Hawthorn is used extensively for heart problems as it is so effective in increasing blood circulation. It acts as a tonic, which widens the blood vessels and reduces high blood pressure.
Hawthorn is one of the oldest traditional medicines used for animals. It is said to be good luck and horses will happily eat it for self- medication if given free access to it. It is said to be one of the best heart tonics available and is beneficial on the circulatory system and blood pressure.
Buckwheat is another very effective herbs for this condition as it strengthens the vessels without affecting blood pressure. Buckwheat is rich in magnesium, calcium, potassium and trace elements.
Herbs that can be of benefit will work by helping the circulation and by reducing the inflammation and pain. It is also important to keep your horse moving which increases circulation and creates good blood flow to the foot.
As with all herbal remedies, concentrating on the whole body will allow your horse to maintain an improved standard of health.
Brookby Herbs manufacture organically certified herbal extracts for horses and dogs at [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz.
For specific herbs that can help your horse visit [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347549]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347549.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Navicular-in-Horses&id=6602832] Navicular in Horses
Navicular syndrome in horses is a bit of an unclear issue which has vets disagreeing at times. Unfortunately when horse owners receive this diagnosis they are given little hope for recovery. Luckily Mother Nature has provided us with some wonderful herbs to help ease the symptoms.
Navicular in horses may initially present itself as intermittent lameness and your horse may stumble a lot when trotting. Diagnosis can be achieved with x-rays. The navicular bone is a small bone in the foot of the horse and it is part of the bony skeleton of the leg, It is held in place by ligaments.
Foot problems account for 90% of all lameness and it is extremely important to take good care of your horse's feet. Navicular Syndrome can be caused by poor shoeing and weak circulation, correction of both is critical to the improvement of this condition.
When a horse is lame and the foot is thought to be the issue, it is important to eliminate other possible causes. A stone bruise or a crack in the coffin bone could be to blame and an x-ray will usually show the problem.
There are a few issues which may mean your horse has a stronger predisposition to navicular syndrome. Some breeds are more likely to get it and the size of the foot may have a bearing. The smaller the foot on a large horse, the more likelihood of problems. Also the type of activity the horse is involved in. Barrel racing can be particularly stressful on the foot.
If your horse is diagnosed with navicular, there are some very useful herbs you can easily feed. Inflammation is a particular problem so herbs such as Devil's Claw are great for this. Devil's Claw will help reduce inflammation and pain without giving a false impression to the horse so he won't over exert himself.
Devil's Claw is native to Africa. The root is used for arthritis as it relieves rheumatism and other painful joint disorders. It is also considered a painkiller and has proven to be comparable to cortisone and phenybutazone or bute which is commonly used in this situation. Do not give to mares in foal as it may induce contractions and do not use when gastric ulcers are present.
Circulation is another important issue with navicular and Hawthorn is a great herb for strengthening the heart muscle and increasing the circulation. In Germany Hawthorn is used extensively for heart problems as it is so effective in increasing blood circulation. It acts as a tonic, which widens the blood vessels and reduces high blood pressure.
Hawthorn is one of the oldest traditional medicines used for animals. It is said to be good luck and horses will happily eat it for self- medication if given free access to it. It is said to be one of the best heart tonics available and is beneficial on the circulatory system and blood pressure.
Buckwheat is another very effective herbs for this condition as it strengthens the vessels without affecting blood pressure. Buckwheat is rich in magnesium, calcium, potassium and trace elements.
Herbs that can be of benefit will work by helping the circulation and by reducing the inflammation and pain. It is also important to keep your horse moving which increases circulation and creates good blood flow to the foot.
As with all herbal remedies, concentrating on the whole body will allow your horse to maintain an improved standard of health.
Brookby Herbs manufacture organically certified herbal extracts for horses and dogs at [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz.
For specific herbs that can help your horse visit [http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347549]http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz/webapps/i/90632/240609/347549.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Navicular-in-Horses&id=6602832] Navicular in Horses
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Do Horse Joint Supplements Actually Work?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=M_Hammersley]M Hammersley
So, the veterinarian just evaluated your horse and determined that he is suffering from degenerative joint disease. What are you options? Do you simply need to make a few lifestyle changes for your horse or will you need to rely on horse joint supplements?
Before you start using horse supplements, you need to be sure to ask the important questions and determine whether you are really getting your money's worth.
Do Horse Supplements Work?
The effects of horse joint supplements have been studied for years. While these supplements are not always best choice for your horse, they are often the first step to reducing the symptoms of joint disease. Your veterinarian may recommend these joint supplements if your horse is:
In the early stages of joint disease
If your horse has recently been diagnosed with joint problems
If lifestyle changes have not helped reduce the symptoms of joint disease by themselves
In some cases, your veterinarian may discourage the use of these types of supplements. They may tell you that your horse's condition has progressed to a point where supplements will not help. They may also tell you that joint injections would work better to care for the symptoms your horse experiences. While this information may be true, you still want to begin your horse's treatment with regular supplements.
Even if the horse's condition has worsened to the point where the vet believes supplements won't help, if you can afford a two month supply, you can try using them anyway. You may be surprised at the changes you see in your horse. The supplement may help your beloved equine deal with the pain and inflammation often associated with joint diseases like arthritis.
Joint injections can be extremely helpful for horses with joint diseases, but regular injection can increase the risk of an infection. Before you begin using joint injections, try using horse joint supplements. You may be able to obtain the same effects and put off having your horse injected for a while.
Using Horse Joint Supplements
Choosing the right supplements for horse joints is important, as is using them correctly. When you begin looking for these kinds of supplements, take a careful look at the ingredients. The products should have the best ingredients and the recommended level of these ingredients for the right therapeutic effect. The most common ingredients used for therapeutic reasons in these supplements are Glucosamine and MSM. Other ingredients, like vitamin A, copper, magnesium, B vitamins, and zinc may also be used to enhance the effect of the product for joint care.
Each horse supplement product will have its own instructions for recommended use. In general though, the loading dose, which is given during the first two or three weeks, is double the amount of the regular, maintenance dose. The loading dose is used to increase the levels in the horse's body fast. This will allow you to see the effects of the supplement more quickly.
Horse joint supplements do work well for many horses. If you think these kinds of horse supplements may help your horse deal with the symptoms of joint disease, speak to your veterinarian today. [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/]Equiform Nutrition has been a leader in horse supplements and natural equine health for the past century. We offer a complete range of horse supplements, including vitamin and mineral supplements, anti-anxiety aids, horse joint supplements and other products especially created to support performance.
We create our supplements using the most rigid standards of production and the highest quality and purest ingredients. We never use banned substances, so you can use our supplements with the confidence of knowing you are within regulations with horses running under rule.
Check our wide range of [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=joint+supplements]horse joint supplements, as well as our immune range, our performance range, breeding supplements, hoof health line, and our other health specialty formulas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Do-Horse-Joint-Supplements-Actually-Work?&id=6612457] Do Horse Joint Supplements Actually Work?
So, the veterinarian just evaluated your horse and determined that he is suffering from degenerative joint disease. What are you options? Do you simply need to make a few lifestyle changes for your horse or will you need to rely on horse joint supplements?
Before you start using horse supplements, you need to be sure to ask the important questions and determine whether you are really getting your money's worth.
Do Horse Supplements Work?
The effects of horse joint supplements have been studied for years. While these supplements are not always best choice for your horse, they are often the first step to reducing the symptoms of joint disease. Your veterinarian may recommend these joint supplements if your horse is:
In the early stages of joint disease
If your horse has recently been diagnosed with joint problems
If lifestyle changes have not helped reduce the symptoms of joint disease by themselves
In some cases, your veterinarian may discourage the use of these types of supplements. They may tell you that your horse's condition has progressed to a point where supplements will not help. They may also tell you that joint injections would work better to care for the symptoms your horse experiences. While this information may be true, you still want to begin your horse's treatment with regular supplements.
Even if the horse's condition has worsened to the point where the vet believes supplements won't help, if you can afford a two month supply, you can try using them anyway. You may be surprised at the changes you see in your horse. The supplement may help your beloved equine deal with the pain and inflammation often associated with joint diseases like arthritis.
Joint injections can be extremely helpful for horses with joint diseases, but regular injection can increase the risk of an infection. Before you begin using joint injections, try using horse joint supplements. You may be able to obtain the same effects and put off having your horse injected for a while.
Using Horse Joint Supplements
Choosing the right supplements for horse joints is important, as is using them correctly. When you begin looking for these kinds of supplements, take a careful look at the ingredients. The products should have the best ingredients and the recommended level of these ingredients for the right therapeutic effect. The most common ingredients used for therapeutic reasons in these supplements are Glucosamine and MSM. Other ingredients, like vitamin A, copper, magnesium, B vitamins, and zinc may also be used to enhance the effect of the product for joint care.
Each horse supplement product will have its own instructions for recommended use. In general though, the loading dose, which is given during the first two or three weeks, is double the amount of the regular, maintenance dose. The loading dose is used to increase the levels in the horse's body fast. This will allow you to see the effects of the supplement more quickly.
Horse joint supplements do work well for many horses. If you think these kinds of horse supplements may help your horse deal with the symptoms of joint disease, speak to your veterinarian today. [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/]Equiform Nutrition has been a leader in horse supplements and natural equine health for the past century. We offer a complete range of horse supplements, including vitamin and mineral supplements, anti-anxiety aids, horse joint supplements and other products especially created to support performance.
We create our supplements using the most rigid standards of production and the highest quality and purest ingredients. We never use banned substances, so you can use our supplements with the confidence of knowing you are within regulations with horses running under rule.
Check our wide range of [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=joint+supplements]horse joint supplements, as well as our immune range, our performance range, breeding supplements, hoof health line, and our other health specialty formulas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Do-Horse-Joint-Supplements-Actually-Work?&id=6612457] Do Horse Joint Supplements Actually Work?
Thursday, December 22, 2011
Healthy Joints Start With Healthy Hooves
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=M_Hammersley]M Hammersley
In order for you horse to be truly healthy, he must have healthy hooves and joints. While there are several steps to increasing the health of your horse's hooves, one important step is make sure he is taking the right horse joint supplements. After all, if your horse's joints are wearing down, his hooves will take the brunt of the injury. If your horse is suffering from unhealthy looking hooves, here is some information you may want to know.
The Connection Between Horse Joints and Hooves
Just like with the human body, everything in a horse's body is connected. This connection is what allows the body to function. When one part of the horse becomes worn down, it can easily affect the other areas of the body. For instance, if the horse's joints are damaged, a horse's hooves may suffer.
With damaged joints, often comes an irregular gait and painful movements. This can cause irregular wear and tear on your horse's hooves, and can even lead to lameness if left untreated. Certain joint diseases, like founders, affect the joints of a horse as well as the hooves.
Treating Hoof and Joint Problems
To prevent and treat joint and hoof problems, several steps can be taken.
Every horse should eat a diet rich in the nutrients he needs to grow healthy hooves. But even when you take the time to ensure he is eating right, with a high fiber diet and an adequate amount of protein, he still may be lacking the right nutrients. This could be caused by the hay or grass where you live. In many areas, the hay or grass may be high in one nutrient, while lacking in other important areas.
Horse joint supplements can do wonders for your horse's joints and hooves by proving the vitamins, minerals, and amino acids your horse needs, increasing hoof strength, and elevating the overall health of your horse. Most importantly, horse joint supplements can treat the symptoms of joint diseases. This can prevent painful and debilitating problems.
Trimming- When trimming, it is important to make sure the heels are even, so the hooves will be balanced. An unbalance hoof can lead to difficult movement, which may aggravate and speed up joint wear and tear. You may trim excess sole length, flares, and dead sole, but respect the white line on the sole and don't try to trim parts of the sole that should not be trimmed. If your horse has thin soles and you are not sure if you are trimming the dead, flakey part of the sole or not, it is best to leave it alone. This will help you avoid making the horse sore.
Hoof cleaning- To promote healthy hooves, make sure you clean your horse's hooves daily. Remove any rocks and dirt and keep an eye out for sores or other issues. Infections caused by dirty hooves can lead to joint problems.
Healing- In order for your horse's hooves and joints to heal, they have to be moving. Don't' keep them locked in their small stall or a small paddock. They to be up on their hooves, moving around. With exercise, you are sure to notice a significant chance in the amount of pain and inflammation a horse experiences from hoof and joint problems.
Keeping your horse's hooves healthy takes a lot of time, effort, and work, but if you ensure they are having enough exercise, keep the hooves clean, feed them a healthy diet, and use horse joint supplements to take care of any joint problems, you horse's hooves are sure to be healthy. [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/]Equiform Nutrition has been a leader in horse supplements and natural equine health for the past century. We offer a complete range of horse supplements, including vitamin and mineral supplements, anti-anxiety aids, horse joint supplements and other products especially created to support performance.
We create our supplements using the most rigid standards of production and the highest quality and purest ingredients. We never use banned substances, so you can use our supplements with the confidence of knowing you are within regulations with horses running under rule.
Check our wide range of [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=joint+supplements]horse joint supplements, as well as our immune range, our performance range, breeding supplements, hoof health line, and our other health specialty formulas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Healthy-Joints-Start-With-Healthy-Hooves&id=6612460] Healthy Joints Start With Healthy Hooves
In order for you horse to be truly healthy, he must have healthy hooves and joints. While there are several steps to increasing the health of your horse's hooves, one important step is make sure he is taking the right horse joint supplements. After all, if your horse's joints are wearing down, his hooves will take the brunt of the injury. If your horse is suffering from unhealthy looking hooves, here is some information you may want to know.
The Connection Between Horse Joints and Hooves
Just like with the human body, everything in a horse's body is connected. This connection is what allows the body to function. When one part of the horse becomes worn down, it can easily affect the other areas of the body. For instance, if the horse's joints are damaged, a horse's hooves may suffer.
With damaged joints, often comes an irregular gait and painful movements. This can cause irregular wear and tear on your horse's hooves, and can even lead to lameness if left untreated. Certain joint diseases, like founders, affect the joints of a horse as well as the hooves.
Treating Hoof and Joint Problems
To prevent and treat joint and hoof problems, several steps can be taken.
Every horse should eat a diet rich in the nutrients he needs to grow healthy hooves. But even when you take the time to ensure he is eating right, with a high fiber diet and an adequate amount of protein, he still may be lacking the right nutrients. This could be caused by the hay or grass where you live. In many areas, the hay or grass may be high in one nutrient, while lacking in other important areas.
Horse joint supplements can do wonders for your horse's joints and hooves by proving the vitamins, minerals, and amino acids your horse needs, increasing hoof strength, and elevating the overall health of your horse. Most importantly, horse joint supplements can treat the symptoms of joint diseases. This can prevent painful and debilitating problems.
Trimming- When trimming, it is important to make sure the heels are even, so the hooves will be balanced. An unbalance hoof can lead to difficult movement, which may aggravate and speed up joint wear and tear. You may trim excess sole length, flares, and dead sole, but respect the white line on the sole and don't try to trim parts of the sole that should not be trimmed. If your horse has thin soles and you are not sure if you are trimming the dead, flakey part of the sole or not, it is best to leave it alone. This will help you avoid making the horse sore.
Hoof cleaning- To promote healthy hooves, make sure you clean your horse's hooves daily. Remove any rocks and dirt and keep an eye out for sores or other issues. Infections caused by dirty hooves can lead to joint problems.
Healing- In order for your horse's hooves and joints to heal, they have to be moving. Don't' keep them locked in their small stall or a small paddock. They to be up on their hooves, moving around. With exercise, you are sure to notice a significant chance in the amount of pain and inflammation a horse experiences from hoof and joint problems.
Keeping your horse's hooves healthy takes a lot of time, effort, and work, but if you ensure they are having enough exercise, keep the hooves clean, feed them a healthy diet, and use horse joint supplements to take care of any joint problems, you horse's hooves are sure to be healthy. [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/]Equiform Nutrition has been a leader in horse supplements and natural equine health for the past century. We offer a complete range of horse supplements, including vitamin and mineral supplements, anti-anxiety aids, horse joint supplements and other products especially created to support performance.
We create our supplements using the most rigid standards of production and the highest quality and purest ingredients. We never use banned substances, so you can use our supplements with the confidence of knowing you are within regulations with horses running under rule.
Check our wide range of [http://www.equiformnutrition.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=joint+supplements]horse joint supplements, as well as our immune range, our performance range, breeding supplements, hoof health line, and our other health specialty formulas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Healthy-Joints-Start-With-Healthy-Hooves&id=6612460] Healthy Joints Start With Healthy Hooves
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Nutramax Cosequin ASU Powder for Horses - 1300 Gram Container Review
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=James_G_Fraser]James G Fraser
I have four horses on my property in Texas. Two of them - both mares - are now fairly old. Sally is 18 and Suzie is now 21. I have always cared about health of my horses and followed as best I could the up to date news in equine health care, so it has come as no surprise to me to see the progressive degeneration of my older horses.
While naturally these mares are no longer in their peak of physical fitness due to their age, they were both showing signs of increased strain in their legs and joints which was worrying me. For the last couple of years they were both struggling; particularly Suzie, who was cutting her legs when she was getting up and down.
All of my horses are kept active and nutritionally balanced, but I knew that I needed to get some extra help as the older girls were now in need of it. So, I decided to do some further research into horse arthritis, horse joint care and looked into all of the horse supplements, horse vitamins and other horse medicine that was on offer. Finally I set on a plan and decided to 'self medicate' based on some advice from another horsey friend. She recommended Riaflex equine joint care supplement. I did begin to see a slight improvement in both of my mares with this product, but they were still looking fairly strained after the first two months. Eventually I decided to get my vet around who recommended Cosequin ASU horse supplement. I have to say, I had until this point been fairly skeptical about the claims that these horse supplement manufacturers make. However, the with guidance of my vet, my girls have had a new lease of life with Cosequin. Sally and Suzie were both so stiff and unenthusiastic, but now they are truly bouncy and confident.
I strongly believe that Cosequin ASU is one of the only equine health supplements worth giving to your horses if they are suffering form stiffness and genuine horse arthritis.
I guess it is pretty expensive for a tub, but it's not as bad as some of the horse supplements out there. After all, you can't ever really put a price on the happiness of the animals you love so much. So basically, in my review I rate very highly Cosequin ASU as being one of the best horse supplements available on the market today.
Although I said it was fairly expensive - your looking at $409.98 per 1,300 gram tub when you buy from veterinarian suppliers!!! - you can actually pick it up on Amazon (at time of writing this review) for $141.99; a staggering saving of $267.99 (or 65%)!!!
If you want to read some more reviews on Cosequin ASU, you can find a range of them on Amazon.
I suppose I'd better include a bit of further detail on the specs of this excellent horse joint supplement:
Product Specs
* Professional strength - you are getting something powerful and something that veterinarians recommend above all other horse joint care supplements
* Broad spectrum horse joint support in a tasty powder - not only is it powerful, but your horses will actually like the taste of it. It's not going to be a difficult horse pill to swallow!
* High quality researched ingredients - Cosequin has a lot of science behind it. Nutramax know what's truly needed in horse health care
* ASU potentiates the activity of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate
* U.S. Patent Nos. 5,587,363 and 6,797,289 (Additional Patent Pending) - again, the science of horse joint care has been taken further than other equine supplement producers as they have patent pending formulas
Product Benefits
Cosequin ASU goes far further than the traditional glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate products on the market. Cosequin ASU contains NMX1000�* avocado/soybean unsaponifiables (ASU) formulated with FCHG49�* glucosamine hydrochloride and TRH122�* low molecular weight chondroitin sulfate. Plus the addition of high purity MSM! This sets Cosequin ASU apart from any other joint health supplement for horses. And all in a tasty, easy to administer powder!
Cosequin ASU has what's known as a dual synergistic formula: its specific glucosamine hydrochloride and low molecular weight chondroitin sulfate have demonstrated synergy in stimulating cartilage production according to a Lippiello L, Woodward J, Karpman R, et al. Clin Orthop Relat Res 2000;381:229-240., while ASU also acts synergistically with glucosamine.
Cosequin ASU contains the ingredient ASU along with optimal amounts of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate that your horse needs. ASU works along with glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate to support your horse's joints. In fact, the combination of glucosamine /chondroitin sulfate plus ASU has been shown to work better than glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate alone in cartilage cell studies!
What is ASU and how does it work?
ASU (avocado/soybean unsaponifiables) is derived from avocados and soybeans. A potent ingredient demonstrated to protect cartilage which leads to improved joint function, ASU complements the effects of the glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate. Each of these ingredients, while working via its own primary mechanisms of action, together delivers comprehensive joint health support.
James Fraser is the author of http://www.horsehealthsupplies.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Nutramax-Cosequin-ASU-Powder-for-Horses---1300-Gram-Container-Review&id=6604191] Nutramax Cosequin ASU Powder for Horses - 1300 Gram Container Review
I have four horses on my property in Texas. Two of them - both mares - are now fairly old. Sally is 18 and Suzie is now 21. I have always cared about health of my horses and followed as best I could the up to date news in equine health care, so it has come as no surprise to me to see the progressive degeneration of my older horses.
While naturally these mares are no longer in their peak of physical fitness due to their age, they were both showing signs of increased strain in their legs and joints which was worrying me. For the last couple of years they were both struggling; particularly Suzie, who was cutting her legs when she was getting up and down.
All of my horses are kept active and nutritionally balanced, but I knew that I needed to get some extra help as the older girls were now in need of it. So, I decided to do some further research into horse arthritis, horse joint care and looked into all of the horse supplements, horse vitamins and other horse medicine that was on offer. Finally I set on a plan and decided to 'self medicate' based on some advice from another horsey friend. She recommended Riaflex equine joint care supplement. I did begin to see a slight improvement in both of my mares with this product, but they were still looking fairly strained after the first two months. Eventually I decided to get my vet around who recommended Cosequin ASU horse supplement. I have to say, I had until this point been fairly skeptical about the claims that these horse supplement manufacturers make. However, the with guidance of my vet, my girls have had a new lease of life with Cosequin. Sally and Suzie were both so stiff and unenthusiastic, but now they are truly bouncy and confident.
I strongly believe that Cosequin ASU is one of the only equine health supplements worth giving to your horses if they are suffering form stiffness and genuine horse arthritis.
I guess it is pretty expensive for a tub, but it's not as bad as some of the horse supplements out there. After all, you can't ever really put a price on the happiness of the animals you love so much. So basically, in my review I rate very highly Cosequin ASU as being one of the best horse supplements available on the market today.
Although I said it was fairly expensive - your looking at $409.98 per 1,300 gram tub when you buy from veterinarian suppliers!!! - you can actually pick it up on Amazon (at time of writing this review) for $141.99; a staggering saving of $267.99 (or 65%)!!!
If you want to read some more reviews on Cosequin ASU, you can find a range of them on Amazon.
I suppose I'd better include a bit of further detail on the specs of this excellent horse joint supplement:
Product Specs
* Professional strength - you are getting something powerful and something that veterinarians recommend above all other horse joint care supplements
* Broad spectrum horse joint support in a tasty powder - not only is it powerful, but your horses will actually like the taste of it. It's not going to be a difficult horse pill to swallow!
* High quality researched ingredients - Cosequin has a lot of science behind it. Nutramax know what's truly needed in horse health care
* ASU potentiates the activity of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate
* U.S. Patent Nos. 5,587,363 and 6,797,289 (Additional Patent Pending) - again, the science of horse joint care has been taken further than other equine supplement producers as they have patent pending formulas
Product Benefits
Cosequin ASU goes far further than the traditional glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate products on the market. Cosequin ASU contains NMX1000�* avocado/soybean unsaponifiables (ASU) formulated with FCHG49�* glucosamine hydrochloride and TRH122�* low molecular weight chondroitin sulfate. Plus the addition of high purity MSM! This sets Cosequin ASU apart from any other joint health supplement for horses. And all in a tasty, easy to administer powder!
Cosequin ASU has what's known as a dual synergistic formula: its specific glucosamine hydrochloride and low molecular weight chondroitin sulfate have demonstrated synergy in stimulating cartilage production according to a Lippiello L, Woodward J, Karpman R, et al. Clin Orthop Relat Res 2000;381:229-240., while ASU also acts synergistically with glucosamine.
Cosequin ASU contains the ingredient ASU along with optimal amounts of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate that your horse needs. ASU works along with glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate to support your horse's joints. In fact, the combination of glucosamine /chondroitin sulfate plus ASU has been shown to work better than glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate alone in cartilage cell studies!
What is ASU and how does it work?
ASU (avocado/soybean unsaponifiables) is derived from avocados and soybeans. A potent ingredient demonstrated to protect cartilage which leads to improved joint function, ASU complements the effects of the glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate. Each of these ingredients, while working via its own primary mechanisms of action, together delivers comprehensive joint health support.
James Fraser is the author of http://www.horsehealthsupplies.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Nutramax-Cosequin-ASU-Powder-for-Horses---1300-Gram-Container-Review&id=6604191] Nutramax Cosequin ASU Powder for Horses - 1300 Gram Container Review
Sunday, December 18, 2011
How To Minimise Winter Season Weight Damage In Horses
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Timothy_Capper]Timothy Capper
Winter maybe hard on horses, especially stocks with a high metabolism who have a tendency to stay on the skinny side. Many equine owners notice that their horses lose flesh during the winter season, even though the amount of feed stays the same. There are a couple of things equine owners can do to keep their horses plump and happy during the frosty season.
Horses are happiest outside, and should be turned out as often as possible, weather permitting. In the winter, using a blanket is a good idea, even for a horse that grows a thick winter coat. One primary reason horses lose weight in the winter is because they burn more calories to keep warm. Wearing a blanket is an extra layer of protection against the cold and will lessen the amount of calories burned to keep the body temperature stable.
Supplements are also an excellent way to prevent horses from losing weight in the winter. There are a wide variety of weight gain supplements available, and they vary in cost and quality. One should not assume that a supplement is better because it is higher priced. Some weight gain supplements are actually appetite stimulants. They increase a horse's appetite instead of providing additional calories. With breeds such as the Thoroughbred, the problem isn't that the horse has a weak appetite, but that the horse's metabolism is high and burns through calories faster than a slower, stockier breed.
To increase caloric intake during the winter, one should look for a fat or protein supplement rather than an appetite stimulant. There is abundant information online directly from the supplement companies, but it's always advisable to ask a veterinarian as well. A veterinarian will be knowledgeable about the calorie requirements of different breeds as well as fat/protein/carbohydrate ratios.
Many horse owners assume that increasing a horse's grain in the winter will help keep weight on the animal. Increasing grain definitely increases calories, but feeding additional sweet feed also increases the amount of sugar intake. Horse owners who feed sweet feed should be aware of the extra sugar their horses are eating. In some cases, extra sugar can make a horse more excitable.
In general, when upping a horse's food intake, hay is a better option than grain. First, hay does not contain extra sugar. Second, grazing on hay throughout the day is closer to a horse's natural eating pattern. Horses' digestive systems are designed to process small amounts of food continuously throughout the day. Feeding large servings of grain overloads their digestive tract and, while common practice, it is actually quite un-natural for a horse. Grazing on hay gives a horse the extra calories he needs while preserving his natural habits as well.
Because horses' nutritional needs are so different from those of humans, many horse owners find it difficult to figure out how best to manage their feed. With a little research and help from a veterinarian, it is possible to keep a horse in good weight and top form in cold weather. Each horse is different, but most horses will benefit from a blanket during turn-out, a good quality equine supplement, and extra hay during the winter. [http://www.dodsonandhorrell.com]Equine care throughout wintertime is fundamental to maintain body weight and health and wellness. [http://www.dodsonandhorrellpetfood.co.uk/horse-feed/herbs-and-supplements]Equine supplements can be utilized to bulk up on supplements and minerals
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Minimise-Winter-Season-Weight-Damage-In-Horses&id=6611519] How To Minimise Winter Season Weight Damage In Horses
Winter maybe hard on horses, especially stocks with a high metabolism who have a tendency to stay on the skinny side. Many equine owners notice that their horses lose flesh during the winter season, even though the amount of feed stays the same. There are a couple of things equine owners can do to keep their horses plump and happy during the frosty season.
Horses are happiest outside, and should be turned out as often as possible, weather permitting. In the winter, using a blanket is a good idea, even for a horse that grows a thick winter coat. One primary reason horses lose weight in the winter is because they burn more calories to keep warm. Wearing a blanket is an extra layer of protection against the cold and will lessen the amount of calories burned to keep the body temperature stable.
Supplements are also an excellent way to prevent horses from losing weight in the winter. There are a wide variety of weight gain supplements available, and they vary in cost and quality. One should not assume that a supplement is better because it is higher priced. Some weight gain supplements are actually appetite stimulants. They increase a horse's appetite instead of providing additional calories. With breeds such as the Thoroughbred, the problem isn't that the horse has a weak appetite, but that the horse's metabolism is high and burns through calories faster than a slower, stockier breed.
To increase caloric intake during the winter, one should look for a fat or protein supplement rather than an appetite stimulant. There is abundant information online directly from the supplement companies, but it's always advisable to ask a veterinarian as well. A veterinarian will be knowledgeable about the calorie requirements of different breeds as well as fat/protein/carbohydrate ratios.
Many horse owners assume that increasing a horse's grain in the winter will help keep weight on the animal. Increasing grain definitely increases calories, but feeding additional sweet feed also increases the amount of sugar intake. Horse owners who feed sweet feed should be aware of the extra sugar their horses are eating. In some cases, extra sugar can make a horse more excitable.
In general, when upping a horse's food intake, hay is a better option than grain. First, hay does not contain extra sugar. Second, grazing on hay throughout the day is closer to a horse's natural eating pattern. Horses' digestive systems are designed to process small amounts of food continuously throughout the day. Feeding large servings of grain overloads their digestive tract and, while common practice, it is actually quite un-natural for a horse. Grazing on hay gives a horse the extra calories he needs while preserving his natural habits as well.
Because horses' nutritional needs are so different from those of humans, many horse owners find it difficult to figure out how best to manage their feed. With a little research and help from a veterinarian, it is possible to keep a horse in good weight and top form in cold weather. Each horse is different, but most horses will benefit from a blanket during turn-out, a good quality equine supplement, and extra hay during the winter. [http://www.dodsonandhorrell.com]Equine care throughout wintertime is fundamental to maintain body weight and health and wellness. [http://www.dodsonandhorrellpetfood.co.uk/horse-feed/herbs-and-supplements]Equine supplements can be utilized to bulk up on supplements and minerals
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Minimise-Winter-Season-Weight-Damage-In-Horses&id=6611519] How To Minimise Winter Season Weight Damage In Horses
Friday, December 16, 2011
What Is Equine Colic?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Debbie_Hummerstone]Debbie Hummerstone
The term Colic simply means pain in the abdomen. This can range from mild, life-threatening or fatal.
In the early stages of Equine Colic it can be very difficult to determine if it is a mild form or a potentially fatal form of colic.
Owners who suspect there animals to have any type of abdominal pain should contact their vet immediately.
What are the signs of Equine Colic.
Your horse may be rolling more often than normal.
Your horse may want to lay down more than normal.
When your horse is standing he/she may stand in a stretched position.
Your horse may paw the ground.
Curling of the upper lip.
Constantly lying down and then getting up.
Your horse will also show signs of kicking up under the abdomen.
What should you do if you suspect Equine Colic.
Not all horses will show the same signs but here is a guide of what to check:
If you horse will allow, take his/her temperature.
Check his/her pulse and respiratory rate.
Check to see if his/her gums are of a normal colour.
Monitor his/her water intake, maybe you have noticed a change.
Has he/she been eating as usual or have you noticed a change.
Has your horse had access to unusual feeds.
Has any medication been administered.
Has your horse been drinking freezing water.
You must call your vet.
Remove food completely.
Do not allow you horse to eat bedding.
Your horse may be in pain so walk him calmly and quietly.
Your horse may want to roll so make sure you get him/her in an area where they are free from hurting themselves.
How can you prevent your horse from getting Equine Colic.
Allow you horse to freely move so turn him/her out as much as possible.
Ensure that any changes in diet are taken slowly.
You should also manage any changes to his/her exercise level slowly.
Ensure that your horse does not eat mouldy feed or hay.
Your horse must be fully cooled before they eat or drink
Ensure that you horse is able to forage for much of the day and do not over-graze your pasture.
Your horse must have access to fresh water.
Freezing water can also bring on colic.
Insulate your water bucket
It is important that your horse is monitored on a regular basis. If you notice any changes in your horse and you are not sure, you must call your vet.
About The Author:-
Debbie Hummerstone has experienced a horse with colic and is now helping equine owners.
The Bucket Rug, Insulation for your water buckets is now available and she invites you to take a look at the benefits. http://www.omnitron.co.uk/animal-welfare-products-c-140.html?osCsid=8799eab90a4abd9fae9fcf465b2bc350
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Is-Equine-Colic?&id=6606281] What Is Equine Colic?
The term Colic simply means pain in the abdomen. This can range from mild, life-threatening or fatal.
In the early stages of Equine Colic it can be very difficult to determine if it is a mild form or a potentially fatal form of colic.
Owners who suspect there animals to have any type of abdominal pain should contact their vet immediately.
What are the signs of Equine Colic.
Your horse may be rolling more often than normal.
Your horse may want to lay down more than normal.
When your horse is standing he/she may stand in a stretched position.
Your horse may paw the ground.
Curling of the upper lip.
Constantly lying down and then getting up.
Your horse will also show signs of kicking up under the abdomen.
What should you do if you suspect Equine Colic.
Not all horses will show the same signs but here is a guide of what to check:
If you horse will allow, take his/her temperature.
Check his/her pulse and respiratory rate.
Check to see if his/her gums are of a normal colour.
Monitor his/her water intake, maybe you have noticed a change.
Has he/she been eating as usual or have you noticed a change.
Has your horse had access to unusual feeds.
Has any medication been administered.
Has your horse been drinking freezing water.
You must call your vet.
Remove food completely.
Do not allow you horse to eat bedding.
Your horse may be in pain so walk him calmly and quietly.
Your horse may want to roll so make sure you get him/her in an area where they are free from hurting themselves.
How can you prevent your horse from getting Equine Colic.
Allow you horse to freely move so turn him/her out as much as possible.
Ensure that any changes in diet are taken slowly.
You should also manage any changes to his/her exercise level slowly.
Ensure that your horse does not eat mouldy feed or hay.
Your horse must be fully cooled before they eat or drink
Ensure that you horse is able to forage for much of the day and do not over-graze your pasture.
Your horse must have access to fresh water.
Freezing water can also bring on colic.
Insulate your water bucket
It is important that your horse is monitored on a regular basis. If you notice any changes in your horse and you are not sure, you must call your vet.
About The Author:-
Debbie Hummerstone has experienced a horse with colic and is now helping equine owners.
The Bucket Rug, Insulation for your water buckets is now available and she invites you to take a look at the benefits. http://www.omnitron.co.uk/animal-welfare-products-c-140.html?osCsid=8799eab90a4abd9fae9fcf465b2bc350
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Is-Equine-Colic?&id=6606281] What Is Equine Colic?
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
The Old Rope Horse Is No Longer Old - What Great Nutrition Does
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Audra_Jensen]Audra Jensen
I had bought an older rope horse, 12 years old; from a gentleman that could no longer rope. This horse, Pat had spent many hours on the road going form roping to roping winning Mr. Henry money. Now Mr. Henry didn't want Pat to go to just anyone, he want Pat to go to someone who would keep using him in a job that he was good at. Place his rider in the correct spot behind that calf and put him in the money.
Pat had a couple issues that were no big deal, just had to take a little better care of him. He had navicular in his front feet and was a little riby with the long hair under his chin still hanging on even in October. The navicular we helped by putting egg bar shoes on him and started feeding him grain, good hay and floated his teeth. The long hairs were a nutrition problem that we began to remedy with an excellent supplement. After only being on this supplement for about a week we took him roping and wow, what a different horse. While we were warming up he did a couple head down feeling good crow hops, he had never done this prior to the supplement and Mr. Henry said he had not done that since he was a young colt. We roped 15 head on Pat over the course of the next couple hours and he was still going just as strong on the last one as the first one.
Over the course of the next few months we started hauling Pat hundreds of miles to ropings that began to tire us out, however; Pat was still going strong. His hair coat laid down flat began to shine and was soft. The winter coat that most horses put on is long and shaggy never grew with Pat, he did get a winter coat but it was short, thick and he looked sharp. The long hairs on the chin fell out when he shed and he has never grown them back.
He still has the navicular however it seems to have lessened over time, is it because of the shoes and shoeing or the supplement. I tend to believe it is due to the nutrition the supplement provides the horse to repair and rebuild the body to become healthy. Pat had received good feed but it is hard to carry enough with a person when traveling down the road for weeks on end. The nutrients in the bale of hay vary and as the winter lengthens the vitamins are minimal and the supplement that had been feeding was missing so many things. Now we just dump an ounce in twice a day and don't worry so much if the quality of the hay is low. The other thing we notice is Pat doesn't go off is feed, drinks plenty of water no mater where we are and there have been no colic or tying up tendencies. Supplementing with the correct product makes as the world in the health and performance of a horse.
Audra Jensen is a horse owner and consultant in the health and wellness industry. For more information visit http://www.totalsupplements.com/index2.htm
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Old-Rope-Horse-Is-No-Longer-Old---What-Great-Nutrition-Does&id=6613631] The Old Rope Horse Is No Longer Old - What Great Nutrition Does
I had bought an older rope horse, 12 years old; from a gentleman that could no longer rope. This horse, Pat had spent many hours on the road going form roping to roping winning Mr. Henry money. Now Mr. Henry didn't want Pat to go to just anyone, he want Pat to go to someone who would keep using him in a job that he was good at. Place his rider in the correct spot behind that calf and put him in the money.
Pat had a couple issues that were no big deal, just had to take a little better care of him. He had navicular in his front feet and was a little riby with the long hair under his chin still hanging on even in October. The navicular we helped by putting egg bar shoes on him and started feeding him grain, good hay and floated his teeth. The long hairs were a nutrition problem that we began to remedy with an excellent supplement. After only being on this supplement for about a week we took him roping and wow, what a different horse. While we were warming up he did a couple head down feeling good crow hops, he had never done this prior to the supplement and Mr. Henry said he had not done that since he was a young colt. We roped 15 head on Pat over the course of the next couple hours and he was still going just as strong on the last one as the first one.
Over the course of the next few months we started hauling Pat hundreds of miles to ropings that began to tire us out, however; Pat was still going strong. His hair coat laid down flat began to shine and was soft. The winter coat that most horses put on is long and shaggy never grew with Pat, he did get a winter coat but it was short, thick and he looked sharp. The long hairs on the chin fell out when he shed and he has never grown them back.
He still has the navicular however it seems to have lessened over time, is it because of the shoes and shoeing or the supplement. I tend to believe it is due to the nutrition the supplement provides the horse to repair and rebuild the body to become healthy. Pat had received good feed but it is hard to carry enough with a person when traveling down the road for weeks on end. The nutrients in the bale of hay vary and as the winter lengthens the vitamins are minimal and the supplement that had been feeding was missing so many things. Now we just dump an ounce in twice a day and don't worry so much if the quality of the hay is low. The other thing we notice is Pat doesn't go off is feed, drinks plenty of water no mater where we are and there have been no colic or tying up tendencies. Supplementing with the correct product makes as the world in the health and performance of a horse.
Audra Jensen is a horse owner and consultant in the health and wellness industry. For more information visit http://www.totalsupplements.com/index2.htm
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Old-Rope-Horse-Is-No-Longer-Old---What-Great-Nutrition-Does&id=6613631] The Old Rope Horse Is No Longer Old - What Great Nutrition Does
Monday, December 12, 2011
Excitable or Nervous Horses - How to Calm Them With Herbs
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Rive]Jackie Rive
Excitable or nervous horses can be quite problematic and finding the cause can go along way to helping this issue. Herbs can provide wonderful help and relief with excitable or nervous horses and can reduce a lot of stress. Some of the most likely reasons for this sort of behaviour in horses are lack of confidence, fear or pain, lack of exercise and too much high-energy food.
Excitement at meeting other horses at pony club or on horse treks, poor discipline and general adrenaline rush caused by competition atmosphere can also add to the problem. Old habits and historical memories of scary things can cause nervousness and knowing what is causing the problem is very important to understanding how to treat your horse.
If the problem is caused by an overly high energy diet then your solution will be rather simple, change the diet. If, however your horse becomes anxious and nervous during times of competition or travel then herbs can be a very effective means of reducing some of the stress your horse is experiencing.
Herbs such as chamomile, skullcap, lemon balm, vervain, hops and valerian work on relaxing the nerves. These herbs reduce the anxiety or excitability your horse may be experiencing without causing the horse to become drowsy.
Some of these herbs also work on relaxing the muscles and the gut and therefore cause the whole body to relax without causing the drowsy state that conventional sedatives can induce. The horses gut is readily affected by their mental state so any nervous tension can affect the digestive system also. This is another reson for trying to reduce any tension or stress your horse may be experiencing and I have certainly found herbs to be a gentle and enjoyable way of doing this.
Chamomile is part of the Asteraceae plant family and is commonly used in the horse world. It is used for calming and soothing anxious nerves and can be used as a preventative against colic which is an extremely dangerous condition for any horse.
Chamomile is categorised as a nervine sedative. It also acts as an anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic so can be useful to use when there are aches and pains as well. It is often used in wound healing creams as a topical and as a soothing balm.
Valerian is another commonly used herb for anxious or overly active horses. It is particularly effective in horses that tend to hold tension in the muscles. Unfortunately it has a rather nasty smell and if you ever spill some of this herb into your horses float you will definitely know about it. In ancient times it was called 'phu' or 'fu' which also reflects this condition.
As long as you feed this herb in the correct dosage it will help calm an excitable horse without causing drowsiness or affecting their performance. It is ideal for relieving nervousness, stress and anxiety.
Vervain is another popular herb for soothing an anxious or excitable horse. It is particularly useful for horses that are sensitive to the touch opposed to holding the tension in their muscles. It can be combined nicely with chamomile on a daily basis to soothe an anxious horse.
Therefore if you have a nervous or even an overly excited horse it is definitely worth considering the benefits of using calming herbs. They can be easily added to your horses feed in either a dried or liquid form and will give you the satisfaction of knowing you are feeding a natural remedy.
For further information on herbs for horses and to download your free herbal guide "37 herbs & remedies for fabulously healthy animals" visit http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Excitable-or-Nervous-Horses---How-to-Calm-Them-With-Herbs&id=6607862] Excitable or Nervous Horses - How to Calm Them With Herbs
Excitable or nervous horses can be quite problematic and finding the cause can go along way to helping this issue. Herbs can provide wonderful help and relief with excitable or nervous horses and can reduce a lot of stress. Some of the most likely reasons for this sort of behaviour in horses are lack of confidence, fear or pain, lack of exercise and too much high-energy food.
Excitement at meeting other horses at pony club or on horse treks, poor discipline and general adrenaline rush caused by competition atmosphere can also add to the problem. Old habits and historical memories of scary things can cause nervousness and knowing what is causing the problem is very important to understanding how to treat your horse.
If the problem is caused by an overly high energy diet then your solution will be rather simple, change the diet. If, however your horse becomes anxious and nervous during times of competition or travel then herbs can be a very effective means of reducing some of the stress your horse is experiencing.
Herbs such as chamomile, skullcap, lemon balm, vervain, hops and valerian work on relaxing the nerves. These herbs reduce the anxiety or excitability your horse may be experiencing without causing the horse to become drowsy.
Some of these herbs also work on relaxing the muscles and the gut and therefore cause the whole body to relax without causing the drowsy state that conventional sedatives can induce. The horses gut is readily affected by their mental state so any nervous tension can affect the digestive system also. This is another reson for trying to reduce any tension or stress your horse may be experiencing and I have certainly found herbs to be a gentle and enjoyable way of doing this.
Chamomile is part of the Asteraceae plant family and is commonly used in the horse world. It is used for calming and soothing anxious nerves and can be used as a preventative against colic which is an extremely dangerous condition for any horse.
Chamomile is categorised as a nervine sedative. It also acts as an anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic so can be useful to use when there are aches and pains as well. It is often used in wound healing creams as a topical and as a soothing balm.
Valerian is another commonly used herb for anxious or overly active horses. It is particularly effective in horses that tend to hold tension in the muscles. Unfortunately it has a rather nasty smell and if you ever spill some of this herb into your horses float you will definitely know about it. In ancient times it was called 'phu' or 'fu' which also reflects this condition.
As long as you feed this herb in the correct dosage it will help calm an excitable horse without causing drowsiness or affecting their performance. It is ideal for relieving nervousness, stress and anxiety.
Vervain is another popular herb for soothing an anxious or excitable horse. It is particularly useful for horses that are sensitive to the touch opposed to holding the tension in their muscles. It can be combined nicely with chamomile on a daily basis to soothe an anxious horse.
Therefore if you have a nervous or even an overly excited horse it is definitely worth considering the benefits of using calming herbs. They can be easily added to your horses feed in either a dried or liquid form and will give you the satisfaction of knowing you are feeding a natural remedy.
For further information on herbs for horses and to download your free herbal guide "37 herbs & remedies for fabulously healthy animals" visit http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Excitable-or-Nervous-Horses---How-to-Calm-Them-With-Herbs&id=6607862] Excitable or Nervous Horses - How to Calm Them With Herbs
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Western Saddles
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Donna_J_Diehl]Donna J Diehl
Traditionally the Western saddle, also called the stock saddle, is used primarily for work. It has a horn which is essential when using a lasso. The horn facilitates the roping of cattle. This saddle was used extensively in the United States by cowboys. Two strong girths, each tightened by a cinch strap hold this saddle in place under the strain of the lasso. Western saddles have no padding of their own and for the comfort of the horse need a blanket or saddle pad. To hold ropes or other items they are equipped with D-rings or tie downs.
The tree of the Western saddle is designed to disperse the weight of the rider and the equipment that the rider is carrying over the horse's back. It has sturdier stirrups but the horn is its most distinctive feature. To a well conditioned horse and rider this design can be used for many hours with little discomfort.
Today, Western saddles are used for many different equestrian activities other than work. They are used in competitive sports such as western pleasure, equitation, barrel racing, team roping, reining, and cutting. These saddles are good for beginners because they give the impression of being more secure.
For cow cutting competitions the cutting saddle is used and is lighter. It allows the rider to sit securely through sharp stops and turns. The roping saddle is sturdy and is heavier. Usually it has a thicker horn for securing a rope. It is made to allow the rider to dismount quickly when needed.
The barrel racing saddle is lighter weight and allows the rider to sit securely. It also allows the horse to make sharp turns and perform fast sprints. A light weight saddle that often does not have a horn is the endurance saddle. It is designed for faster speeds and long rides.
Long rides at slower speeds are what the trail saddle is used for. It is designed for the comfort of the rider and the comfort of the horse. The show saddle is generally decorated in some way to make it stand out usually by silver decorations. It allows the rider to give the appearance of a smooth ride. The equitation saddle is designed to hold the rider in place.
There are many variations of the Western saddle each designed for the particular purpose that you have in mind. If you are riding Western you can choose the saddle that is right for you and your horse. There are many styles and colors to choose from.
Take a quick look at the different Western saddles at [http://thebestofhorses.com]http://thebestofhorses.com.
If you would like to see more information about Western saddles take a quick look at [http://thebestofhorses.com]http://thebestofhorses.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Western-Saddles&id=6612157] Western Saddles
Traditionally the Western saddle, also called the stock saddle, is used primarily for work. It has a horn which is essential when using a lasso. The horn facilitates the roping of cattle. This saddle was used extensively in the United States by cowboys. Two strong girths, each tightened by a cinch strap hold this saddle in place under the strain of the lasso. Western saddles have no padding of their own and for the comfort of the horse need a blanket or saddle pad. To hold ropes or other items they are equipped with D-rings or tie downs.
The tree of the Western saddle is designed to disperse the weight of the rider and the equipment that the rider is carrying over the horse's back. It has sturdier stirrups but the horn is its most distinctive feature. To a well conditioned horse and rider this design can be used for many hours with little discomfort.
Today, Western saddles are used for many different equestrian activities other than work. They are used in competitive sports such as western pleasure, equitation, barrel racing, team roping, reining, and cutting. These saddles are good for beginners because they give the impression of being more secure.
For cow cutting competitions the cutting saddle is used and is lighter. It allows the rider to sit securely through sharp stops and turns. The roping saddle is sturdy and is heavier. Usually it has a thicker horn for securing a rope. It is made to allow the rider to dismount quickly when needed.
The barrel racing saddle is lighter weight and allows the rider to sit securely. It also allows the horse to make sharp turns and perform fast sprints. A light weight saddle that often does not have a horn is the endurance saddle. It is designed for faster speeds and long rides.
Long rides at slower speeds are what the trail saddle is used for. It is designed for the comfort of the rider and the comfort of the horse. The show saddle is generally decorated in some way to make it stand out usually by silver decorations. It allows the rider to give the appearance of a smooth ride. The equitation saddle is designed to hold the rider in place.
There are many variations of the Western saddle each designed for the particular purpose that you have in mind. If you are riding Western you can choose the saddle that is right for you and your horse. There are many styles and colors to choose from.
Take a quick look at the different Western saddles at [http://thebestofhorses.com]http://thebestofhorses.com.
If you would like to see more information about Western saddles take a quick look at [http://thebestofhorses.com]http://thebestofhorses.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Western-Saddles&id=6612157] Western Saddles
Thursday, December 8, 2011
How to Fit a Horse With a Rug Correctly
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jamie_Simpson]Jamie Simpson
Putting horse rugs on horses is an essential skill for any horse owner. It is important that your safety and your horse's safety are ensured throughout the procedure of fitting a horse rug. Follow these simple tips to get it right.
Firstly ensure that the horse is tied up, using a headcollar and leadrope, with a quick release knot to a piece of breakable string. This allows you to put the rug on in safety, without the horse moving off, however if the horse was to panic, the string would break and prevent further panicking. Ask a helper to help you to keep the horse still if he fidgets. It is always advisable to ask someone to supervise if you are unsure or new to putting horse rugs on.
Firstly take the rug and fold it in half, then lay it carefully over the horse. Make sure that you don't simply throw the rug over the horse as this could frighten the horse and could result in injury to yourself or the horse.
Unfold the rug, ensuring that each part of the rug covers the correct area; the wither pad should sit at the withers, the tail flap starts at the point at which the tail starts and if the rug features a neck cover this should cover the neck. Always place the rug slightly further forward than necessary and then pull the rug back into position, this ensures that the coat lies in the direction of growth which is more comfortable for the horse.
Move to the front of the horse and stand to one side - outside the reach of front hooves! From here do up the chest straps on the rug. There are usually two of these straps on horse rugs, which are done up using clips or buckles. You should be able to fit a hand's width between the horse and the rug all round the chest and neck. This prevents chafing and allows the horse to move his neck freely, especially essential when the horse is grazing or feeding from the floor.
Next move towards the horse's stomach and attach the cross surcingles. To do this, ensure that they are hanging freely on the right hand side then bend down (never kneel) and grab one from the left hand side. You could ask your helper to pass the surcingles underneath the horse's stomach to make this easier and safer. The cross surcingle at the front of the rug should attach to the rear clip and vice-versa. You should be able to fit a hand's width between the surcingles and the horse's stomach. This prevents the straps from rubbing the horse, but won't allow enough room for the horse's hoof or leg to become caught if he lies down or kicks.
If the rug features leg straps, do these up next. Take the left hand leg strap, pass it through the two legs carefully, watching incase the horse moves his legs, and attach it to the d-ring on the same side. Next, pass the right hand leg strap round the right hand leg and thread it through the left hand leg strap. This keeps the leg straps away from the horse's legs, thus preventing them from rubbing the inside of the horse's hindlegs.
Finally, if the rug features a filet string, carefully lift the tail over the fillet string, so that it lies beneath the tail to help keep the rug in place. Ensure that you stand to one side and not directly behind the horse whilst you do this.
If you are using a rug with a neck cover then these are usually done up with Velcro straps or clips. Ensure that you can fit a hand's width between the straps and the horse's neck to allow for full freedom of movement.
A great collection of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/]horse rugs are available at the best prices from EquestrianClearance.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Fit-a-Horse-With-a-Rug-Correctly&id=6624383] How to Fit a Horse With a Rug Correctly
Putting horse rugs on horses is an essential skill for any horse owner. It is important that your safety and your horse's safety are ensured throughout the procedure of fitting a horse rug. Follow these simple tips to get it right.
Firstly ensure that the horse is tied up, using a headcollar and leadrope, with a quick release knot to a piece of breakable string. This allows you to put the rug on in safety, without the horse moving off, however if the horse was to panic, the string would break and prevent further panicking. Ask a helper to help you to keep the horse still if he fidgets. It is always advisable to ask someone to supervise if you are unsure or new to putting horse rugs on.
Firstly take the rug and fold it in half, then lay it carefully over the horse. Make sure that you don't simply throw the rug over the horse as this could frighten the horse and could result in injury to yourself or the horse.
Unfold the rug, ensuring that each part of the rug covers the correct area; the wither pad should sit at the withers, the tail flap starts at the point at which the tail starts and if the rug features a neck cover this should cover the neck. Always place the rug slightly further forward than necessary and then pull the rug back into position, this ensures that the coat lies in the direction of growth which is more comfortable for the horse.
Move to the front of the horse and stand to one side - outside the reach of front hooves! From here do up the chest straps on the rug. There are usually two of these straps on horse rugs, which are done up using clips or buckles. You should be able to fit a hand's width between the horse and the rug all round the chest and neck. This prevents chafing and allows the horse to move his neck freely, especially essential when the horse is grazing or feeding from the floor.
Next move towards the horse's stomach and attach the cross surcingles. To do this, ensure that they are hanging freely on the right hand side then bend down (never kneel) and grab one from the left hand side. You could ask your helper to pass the surcingles underneath the horse's stomach to make this easier and safer. The cross surcingle at the front of the rug should attach to the rear clip and vice-versa. You should be able to fit a hand's width between the surcingles and the horse's stomach. This prevents the straps from rubbing the horse, but won't allow enough room for the horse's hoof or leg to become caught if he lies down or kicks.
If the rug features leg straps, do these up next. Take the left hand leg strap, pass it through the two legs carefully, watching incase the horse moves his legs, and attach it to the d-ring on the same side. Next, pass the right hand leg strap round the right hand leg and thread it through the left hand leg strap. This keeps the leg straps away from the horse's legs, thus preventing them from rubbing the inside of the horse's hindlegs.
Finally, if the rug features a filet string, carefully lift the tail over the fillet string, so that it lies beneath the tail to help keep the rug in place. Ensure that you stand to one side and not directly behind the horse whilst you do this.
If you are using a rug with a neck cover then these are usually done up with Velcro straps or clips. Ensure that you can fit a hand's width between the straps and the horse's neck to allow for full freedom of movement.
A great collection of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/]horse rugs are available at the best prices from EquestrianClearance.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Fit-a-Horse-With-a-Rug-Correctly&id=6624383] How to Fit a Horse With a Rug Correctly
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
A Rundown of the Various Types and Uses of Horse Rugs
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jamie_Simpson]Jamie Simpson
There are so many different types of horse rugs on the market that it is difficult to know which to use and when. With horse ownership comes the requirement for many horse rugs, read on to find out which rugs your horse will need and when to use them.
Stable rugs are used in order to keep the horse warm whilst stabled. As the horse is required to stand still for long periods of time when stabled, they can grow cold in a way that a turned out horse would not, so a stable rug is essential for cold weather. Stable rugs are often padded or quilted and available in different weights, from lightweight - ideal for cool nights - to heavyweight stable rugs which are perfect for the coldest winter weather.
Turnout rugs are designed to keep the horse warm and dry when turned out. Turnout horse rugs are available in a variety of thicknesses to suit all weather conditions, from lightweight rugs to keep the horse dry during summer showers to heavyweight turnout rugs which will keep the horse comfortable and warm in the depths of winter.
Under rugs, also called liners, are designed to be used underneath stable or turnout rugs when the temperature really drops. These offer the horse extra warmth in the cold weather.
Use a cooler rug or sweat sheet after exercise in order to ensure that your horse cools down without catching a chill. They act to wick moisture away from the horse's skin, allowing the horse to cool down, whilst offering a covering to prevent the horse from cooling down too quickly.
Usually cotton, summer sheets are designed, as the name suggests, to be used during the summer months. They most commonly used to keep the horse clean and protected when stabled or when travelling.
Travel rugs are lightweight sheets designed to be used when the horse is in transit. These horse rugs keep the horse clean, protected and offer some warmth. Usually a summer sheet, fleece rug or cooler rug can be used as a travel rug instead of purchasing another rug specifically for this use.
Fleece rugs are incredibly versatile and useful. They can be used as a cooler after exercise, as a travel rug or sheet when stabled. They are also beneficial for use underneath a stable or turnout rug to provide extra warmth. Available in an array of colours and styles, fleece rugs can be a fashion accessory, and are often embroidered and used at shows.
A fly rug or fly sheet offers a turned out horse protection from flies and other biting insects during the summer 'fly season'. Made of a fine mesh, these rugs will protect your horse, whilst still allowing air to circulate, thus preventing the horse from overheating. Ideally fly rugs should offer as much coverage as possible to ensure full protection, therefore many fly rugs feature a belly wrap, full neck cover and sometimes also a matching face mask. Fly rugs can also be used to prevent bleaching of the skin caused by direct sunlight - for this reason, most fly rugs are white or another reflective colour - and help to keep your horse clean.
An exercise rug is designed, as the name indicates, to be used to keep the horse warm whilst being ridden - some exercise rugs are also waterproof in order to keep the horse dry. There are two main types of exercise sheet; some are placed underneath the saddle and held in place by the saddle, whilst others are wrapped around the saddle (or the rider) and attached with Velcro at the withers.
A huge variety of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/]horse rugs are available at great prices at EquestrianClearance.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Rundown-of-the-Various-Types-and-Uses-of-Horse-Rugs&id=6625251] A Rundown of the Various Types and Uses of Horse Rugs
There are so many different types of horse rugs on the market that it is difficult to know which to use and when. With horse ownership comes the requirement for many horse rugs, read on to find out which rugs your horse will need and when to use them.
Stable rugs are used in order to keep the horse warm whilst stabled. As the horse is required to stand still for long periods of time when stabled, they can grow cold in a way that a turned out horse would not, so a stable rug is essential for cold weather. Stable rugs are often padded or quilted and available in different weights, from lightweight - ideal for cool nights - to heavyweight stable rugs which are perfect for the coldest winter weather.
Turnout rugs are designed to keep the horse warm and dry when turned out. Turnout horse rugs are available in a variety of thicknesses to suit all weather conditions, from lightweight rugs to keep the horse dry during summer showers to heavyweight turnout rugs which will keep the horse comfortable and warm in the depths of winter.
Under rugs, also called liners, are designed to be used underneath stable or turnout rugs when the temperature really drops. These offer the horse extra warmth in the cold weather.
Use a cooler rug or sweat sheet after exercise in order to ensure that your horse cools down without catching a chill. They act to wick moisture away from the horse's skin, allowing the horse to cool down, whilst offering a covering to prevent the horse from cooling down too quickly.
Usually cotton, summer sheets are designed, as the name suggests, to be used during the summer months. They most commonly used to keep the horse clean and protected when stabled or when travelling.
Travel rugs are lightweight sheets designed to be used when the horse is in transit. These horse rugs keep the horse clean, protected and offer some warmth. Usually a summer sheet, fleece rug or cooler rug can be used as a travel rug instead of purchasing another rug specifically for this use.
Fleece rugs are incredibly versatile and useful. They can be used as a cooler after exercise, as a travel rug or sheet when stabled. They are also beneficial for use underneath a stable or turnout rug to provide extra warmth. Available in an array of colours and styles, fleece rugs can be a fashion accessory, and are often embroidered and used at shows.
A fly rug or fly sheet offers a turned out horse protection from flies and other biting insects during the summer 'fly season'. Made of a fine mesh, these rugs will protect your horse, whilst still allowing air to circulate, thus preventing the horse from overheating. Ideally fly rugs should offer as much coverage as possible to ensure full protection, therefore many fly rugs feature a belly wrap, full neck cover and sometimes also a matching face mask. Fly rugs can also be used to prevent bleaching of the skin caused by direct sunlight - for this reason, most fly rugs are white or another reflective colour - and help to keep your horse clean.
An exercise rug is designed, as the name indicates, to be used to keep the horse warm whilst being ridden - some exercise rugs are also waterproof in order to keep the horse dry. There are two main types of exercise sheet; some are placed underneath the saddle and held in place by the saddle, whilst others are wrapped around the saddle (or the rider) and attached with Velcro at the withers.
A huge variety of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/]horse rugs are available at great prices at EquestrianClearance.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Rundown-of-the-Various-Types-and-Uses-of-Horse-Rugs&id=6625251] A Rundown of the Various Types and Uses of Horse Rugs
Sunday, December 4, 2011
Explaining a Little About Long Distance Riding
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Erin_C_Brankowski]Erin C Brankowski
What does the term long riding mean? Well in horsey terms it means long distance non-competitive horse riding. Distance riding done at a more relaxed pace over a period of days, weeks or months and in some cases years!
It has being going on quietly for many, many years, but since the coming of the Internet in the UK in recent years, and in other countries previously, it has been easier to organise and is becoming a more popular alternative to competitive riding. Some long riders used to (and still do in some cases) just saddle up with their gear and ride each day, looking for accommodation when they feel they want to retire for the night. This could be wild camping or sleeping in a barn, wherever they find something suitable. Now, via the internet, you can organise your accommodation ahead of the journey. This can include all of the above plus Bed and Breakfasts, which are obviously a softer and more expensive option. The true long rider is someone that organises their own route and accommodation. Holidays on horseback are organised for you and are just that, a holiday with no challenge for intrepid riders that travel light with no back-up crew.
Some accommodation providers can offer grazing or stabling but often it is hard to find these together at the desired days' riding length, but finding a field close to it is an alternative. You just need to be persistent at finding it. The B&B provider will often be pleased to help with transport to and from the field if it is some distance away. Pubs are a great source of information.
To answer the question of what type of horse is suitable for travelling long distances, the answer is any horse that is fit and interested in changing and unfamiliar scenery including your horse. In fact horses do appreciate not going round in circles or doing the same routes or exercises repetitively - they become brain-dead and dull. The relationship between horse and rider always improves when long riding because you spend so much time with each other. The trust between the two grows because they rely on each other for food and safe passage. You actually learn to listen to your horse and then the partnership begins in earnest!
I have gone down the route of barefooted, bitless and treeless saddles. I ride barefooted horses because farriers are sometimes difficult to get hold of when they are required and I can trim myself. No losing of shoes and a lame horse in the middle of no-where! I ride bitless because the trust with my horses is good and they can eat naturally without any interference. I ride treeless because the horse does change shape as they get fitter. My Tennessee Walker broodmare is the exception and has a treed saddle especially produced for the breed as she doesn't have a flat back. What each rider does is personal to them. There are no rules except the decent care of the horse.
Erin is a freelance interior designer and in her free time she enjoys going out to the countryside, whilst wearing her [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Rider]riding jodhpurs to go horse-riding. For more information on the issues raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Explaining-a-Little-About-Long-Distance-Riding&id=6621409] Explaining a Little About Long Distance Riding
What does the term long riding mean? Well in horsey terms it means long distance non-competitive horse riding. Distance riding done at a more relaxed pace over a period of days, weeks or months and in some cases years!
It has being going on quietly for many, many years, but since the coming of the Internet in the UK in recent years, and in other countries previously, it has been easier to organise and is becoming a more popular alternative to competitive riding. Some long riders used to (and still do in some cases) just saddle up with their gear and ride each day, looking for accommodation when they feel they want to retire for the night. This could be wild camping or sleeping in a barn, wherever they find something suitable. Now, via the internet, you can organise your accommodation ahead of the journey. This can include all of the above plus Bed and Breakfasts, which are obviously a softer and more expensive option. The true long rider is someone that organises their own route and accommodation. Holidays on horseback are organised for you and are just that, a holiday with no challenge for intrepid riders that travel light with no back-up crew.
Some accommodation providers can offer grazing or stabling but often it is hard to find these together at the desired days' riding length, but finding a field close to it is an alternative. You just need to be persistent at finding it. The B&B provider will often be pleased to help with transport to and from the field if it is some distance away. Pubs are a great source of information.
To answer the question of what type of horse is suitable for travelling long distances, the answer is any horse that is fit and interested in changing and unfamiliar scenery including your horse. In fact horses do appreciate not going round in circles or doing the same routes or exercises repetitively - they become brain-dead and dull. The relationship between horse and rider always improves when long riding because you spend so much time with each other. The trust between the two grows because they rely on each other for food and safe passage. You actually learn to listen to your horse and then the partnership begins in earnest!
I have gone down the route of barefooted, bitless and treeless saddles. I ride barefooted horses because farriers are sometimes difficult to get hold of when they are required and I can trim myself. No losing of shoes and a lame horse in the middle of no-where! I ride bitless because the trust with my horses is good and they can eat naturally without any interference. I ride treeless because the horse does change shape as they get fitter. My Tennessee Walker broodmare is the exception and has a treed saddle especially produced for the breed as she doesn't have a flat back. What each rider does is personal to them. There are no rules except the decent care of the horse.
Erin is a freelance interior designer and in her free time she enjoys going out to the countryside, whilst wearing her [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Rider]riding jodhpurs to go horse-riding. For more information on the issues raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Explaining-a-Little-About-Long-Distance-Riding&id=6621409] Explaining a Little About Long Distance Riding
Friday, December 2, 2011
Being Prepared for Long Distance Riding
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Erin_C_Brankowski]Erin C Brankowski
Long distance riding can be quite tricky so it is important that you are well prepared before setting off. This includes taking the right clothing and equipment to knowing where you will sleep and rest. The problem with long distance riding is that you will be a long way from home which makes it more vital that you have undertaken the correct preparation.
Knowing what to take depends on the length of the journey. It's amazing how little is needed and can be packed in a small space. Forget bottles and go for sachet items as these are generally lighter. Obviously if you take medication you must include it, but if you can leave boxes behind and instead you can use self-seal sandwich bags as most tablets come in blister packs. Other things you should take include a basic first aid kit for your horse and yourself; your toothbrush and toothpaste. In addition, a penknife and some string will come in handy for tying gates shut or tying items to saddles. The penknife can also be used for picking out stones from hooves. Spare lightweight clothing packs down well and there's no need to bother dressing for dinner! Light weight wet weather gear is more important. If you can't change into something dry you need to keep dry. There's nothing worse than being cold and wet (I still haven't found a summer weight raincoat that doesn't make me as wet inside as out from sweat). If you are planning on lighting a meth stove keep your matches dry in your pocket. Wrap everything in plastic bags to keep it dry. Don't trust your saddle bags to do the job. The same goes with your money in a money belt, it can get wet with sweat!
In terms of saddle bags, this also depends on the length of your trip. There are some good ones that attach to the back/front of the saddle that are small and have good capacity. You can also get a larger pannier type for the longer journey but with these you need to weigh the items so the panniers are well balanced and it keeps the horse balanced to prevent you going round in circles again! I keep a list of what went where so I know roughly how to maintain it. For much longer trips you can take a packhorse with purpose made panniers. There are quite a few on the international market, but it is difficult finding them within the UK market. The weight distribution is really important as is the padding to prevent sores.
Start with shorter journeys to get the feel of it and learn from mistakes. If the journey is short it is easier to get help and return home should a problem arise. My Tennessee Walker did her first 100 miles (160kms) of a 260 mile (416kms) journey from South to North Wales and she was very tired from it, so we had to bring her home and fetch my more experienced part-bred Arab who finished the journey, missing a day's ride in the process. Peruse your map and decide your route and distance, then divide it up into daily distances. If you are booking accommodation you can use the internet to search in those places for your destination. Otherwise wild camping is an alternative but you should still have an idea of where you will stop.
You can use computer mapping systems and print off your route. If you do this you can laminate the sheets to keep them dry within your map case. A good skill to have when long riding is to be able to read a compass especially where landmarks are scarce, but this is not easy on a horse! If you can't map read you are lost from the beginning so go and get some tuition and practise exploring in safe locations. There are also some useful websites that can give you an idea with photographs of the route you have chosen and whether it is passable.
Erin is a freelance interior designer and in her free time she enjoys going out to the countryside, whilst wearing her [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Rider]equine clothing to go riding. For more information on the issues raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Being-Prepared-for-Long-Distance-Riding&id=6621416] Being Prepared for Long Distance Riding
Long distance riding can be quite tricky so it is important that you are well prepared before setting off. This includes taking the right clothing and equipment to knowing where you will sleep and rest. The problem with long distance riding is that you will be a long way from home which makes it more vital that you have undertaken the correct preparation.
Knowing what to take depends on the length of the journey. It's amazing how little is needed and can be packed in a small space. Forget bottles and go for sachet items as these are generally lighter. Obviously if you take medication you must include it, but if you can leave boxes behind and instead you can use self-seal sandwich bags as most tablets come in blister packs. Other things you should take include a basic first aid kit for your horse and yourself; your toothbrush and toothpaste. In addition, a penknife and some string will come in handy for tying gates shut or tying items to saddles. The penknife can also be used for picking out stones from hooves. Spare lightweight clothing packs down well and there's no need to bother dressing for dinner! Light weight wet weather gear is more important. If you can't change into something dry you need to keep dry. There's nothing worse than being cold and wet (I still haven't found a summer weight raincoat that doesn't make me as wet inside as out from sweat). If you are planning on lighting a meth stove keep your matches dry in your pocket. Wrap everything in plastic bags to keep it dry. Don't trust your saddle bags to do the job. The same goes with your money in a money belt, it can get wet with sweat!
In terms of saddle bags, this also depends on the length of your trip. There are some good ones that attach to the back/front of the saddle that are small and have good capacity. You can also get a larger pannier type for the longer journey but with these you need to weigh the items so the panniers are well balanced and it keeps the horse balanced to prevent you going round in circles again! I keep a list of what went where so I know roughly how to maintain it. For much longer trips you can take a packhorse with purpose made panniers. There are quite a few on the international market, but it is difficult finding them within the UK market. The weight distribution is really important as is the padding to prevent sores.
Start with shorter journeys to get the feel of it and learn from mistakes. If the journey is short it is easier to get help and return home should a problem arise. My Tennessee Walker did her first 100 miles (160kms) of a 260 mile (416kms) journey from South to North Wales and she was very tired from it, so we had to bring her home and fetch my more experienced part-bred Arab who finished the journey, missing a day's ride in the process. Peruse your map and decide your route and distance, then divide it up into daily distances. If you are booking accommodation you can use the internet to search in those places for your destination. Otherwise wild camping is an alternative but you should still have an idea of where you will stop.
You can use computer mapping systems and print off your route. If you do this you can laminate the sheets to keep them dry within your map case. A good skill to have when long riding is to be able to read a compass especially where landmarks are scarce, but this is not easy on a horse! If you can't map read you are lost from the beginning so go and get some tuition and practise exploring in safe locations. There are also some useful websites that can give you an idea with photographs of the route you have chosen and whether it is passable.
Erin is a freelance interior designer and in her free time she enjoys going out to the countryside, whilst wearing her [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Rider]equine clothing to go riding. For more information on the issues raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Being-Prepared-for-Long-Distance-Riding&id=6621416] Being Prepared for Long Distance Riding
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Introducing Poles to Your Horse Training
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Erin_C_Brankowski]Erin C Brankowski
It is almost inevitable that we all, at some point have incorporated poles as part of training plans, schooling exercises or had riding instructors use them for fun during lessons. The fact is that poles can also be used as part of a rehabilitation and strengthening programme, alongside the advice and assessment of a chartered physiotherapist.
Locomotion over poles alters how the horse moves, alters the horse's stride, increases limb movement and increases flexion of the spine. With this in mind, the use of pole work can encourage movement whilst assisting in the development of muscle and muscle strength within certain muscle groups. Muscles within the horse's body work in opposing pairs; where one muscle will be contracting and the opposing muscle will be relaxing. Abdominal and spinal muscles work in this opposing manner, flexing and extending to extend the spine and maintain stability of the trunk. When working correctly the abdominal muscles support and lift the mass of the horse's body, while the spinal muscles stabilise and maintain the horse's top-line. It is these features of the working relationship that enable the horse to work in a rounded outline. An additional benefit to this working relationship is that when working correctly it encourages correct hind limb propulsion by enabling the horse to fully bring his hind limbs underneath him, in turn optimising performance.
When beginning to use poles as part of your programme you will need a cavesson and a lunge line. At this stage no other gadgets (side reins and other similar training aids) should be used, as it is important that the horse is allowed to move freely and independently. It is a good idea to practice moving about the school with your horse, whilst leading him using the cavesson and lunge line before putting the poles out. Practice walking and trotting with him about 3 metres away from you, using your hand or a short riding crop to encourage him away from you.
Once you have mastered control in this way you can bring in the poles. Begin with a walk and have the poles set to between 90 and 100cms apart. Alter the distance to suit your horse's stride if you need to, in order for his movement to be comfortable when going over them. It has been shown that 6 poles are effective when working to re-train and strengthen muscles. There are different ways in which you can lay out your poles on the ground (and then raised once you decide to increase the level of training) in order to achieve specific results or to work towards a specific goal, but all of which should be done over a period of about 20 minutes. This is a sufficient amount of time working over poles to be of benefit, however if your horse becomes fatigued in a shorter period of time than this, reduce the time spent training in this way initially and then gradually work up to 20 minutes.
One of the most beneficial exercises to help the engagement of the abdominal muscles requires two poles to be placed end to end (leaving room in between for you to stand) in a straight line, with the inner ends raised by 20cms. The idea is that you will lunge the horse in a circle over these poles (making sure the horse steps over the middle of the pole rather than either end), whilst standing in the middle of the two poles. Benefits of this simple exercise include:
1. Mobilising the lower limbs. The inner limbs will have a shorter, higher step and the outer limbs will use a longer lower stride.
2. It encourages greater extension of the outer hind limb.
3. It will bend the thorax region of the spine in a lateral curve.
4. The horse will use his head and neck in order to assist balance.
5. Promote mobilisation of the scapula on the ribcage as it rotates. This assists in retraining the scapular stabilising muscles.
6. Promotes contraction of the abdominal muscles on the inside of the circle and relaxation of the outer abdominal muscles.
7. Strengthens the inside hind limb
Slalom exercises over poles work similarly to slalom exercises performed by agility dogs. The poles will be placed in a straight line (the number of which should be determined by how fit your horse is), beginning with a set of 3-4. This exercise is more difficult for the horse as he will be stepping over one side and then back over to the next repeatedly. His abdominal muscles will be flexing and relaxing alternatively.
Keeping all of these tips in mind should allow your horse to really benefit from the use of poles in training and improve its strength and agility.
For further information on [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/clearance-section]equestrian clearance products including horse boots, horse rugs or any other topics that have been raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine who are experts in the equestrian field.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Introducing-Poles-to-Your-Horse-Training&id=6621422] Introducing Poles to Your Horse Training
It is almost inevitable that we all, at some point have incorporated poles as part of training plans, schooling exercises or had riding instructors use them for fun during lessons. The fact is that poles can also be used as part of a rehabilitation and strengthening programme, alongside the advice and assessment of a chartered physiotherapist.
Locomotion over poles alters how the horse moves, alters the horse's stride, increases limb movement and increases flexion of the spine. With this in mind, the use of pole work can encourage movement whilst assisting in the development of muscle and muscle strength within certain muscle groups. Muscles within the horse's body work in opposing pairs; where one muscle will be contracting and the opposing muscle will be relaxing. Abdominal and spinal muscles work in this opposing manner, flexing and extending to extend the spine and maintain stability of the trunk. When working correctly the abdominal muscles support and lift the mass of the horse's body, while the spinal muscles stabilise and maintain the horse's top-line. It is these features of the working relationship that enable the horse to work in a rounded outline. An additional benefit to this working relationship is that when working correctly it encourages correct hind limb propulsion by enabling the horse to fully bring his hind limbs underneath him, in turn optimising performance.
When beginning to use poles as part of your programme you will need a cavesson and a lunge line. At this stage no other gadgets (side reins and other similar training aids) should be used, as it is important that the horse is allowed to move freely and independently. It is a good idea to practice moving about the school with your horse, whilst leading him using the cavesson and lunge line before putting the poles out. Practice walking and trotting with him about 3 metres away from you, using your hand or a short riding crop to encourage him away from you.
Once you have mastered control in this way you can bring in the poles. Begin with a walk and have the poles set to between 90 and 100cms apart. Alter the distance to suit your horse's stride if you need to, in order for his movement to be comfortable when going over them. It has been shown that 6 poles are effective when working to re-train and strengthen muscles. There are different ways in which you can lay out your poles on the ground (and then raised once you decide to increase the level of training) in order to achieve specific results or to work towards a specific goal, but all of which should be done over a period of about 20 minutes. This is a sufficient amount of time working over poles to be of benefit, however if your horse becomes fatigued in a shorter period of time than this, reduce the time spent training in this way initially and then gradually work up to 20 minutes.
One of the most beneficial exercises to help the engagement of the abdominal muscles requires two poles to be placed end to end (leaving room in between for you to stand) in a straight line, with the inner ends raised by 20cms. The idea is that you will lunge the horse in a circle over these poles (making sure the horse steps over the middle of the pole rather than either end), whilst standing in the middle of the two poles. Benefits of this simple exercise include:
1. Mobilising the lower limbs. The inner limbs will have a shorter, higher step and the outer limbs will use a longer lower stride.
2. It encourages greater extension of the outer hind limb.
3. It will bend the thorax region of the spine in a lateral curve.
4. The horse will use his head and neck in order to assist balance.
5. Promote mobilisation of the scapula on the ribcage as it rotates. This assists in retraining the scapular stabilising muscles.
6. Promotes contraction of the abdominal muscles on the inside of the circle and relaxation of the outer abdominal muscles.
7. Strengthens the inside hind limb
Slalom exercises over poles work similarly to slalom exercises performed by agility dogs. The poles will be placed in a straight line (the number of which should be determined by how fit your horse is), beginning with a set of 3-4. This exercise is more difficult for the horse as he will be stepping over one side and then back over to the next repeatedly. His abdominal muscles will be flexing and relaxing alternatively.
Keeping all of these tips in mind should allow your horse to really benefit from the use of poles in training and improve its strength and agility.
For further information on [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/clearance-section]equestrian clearance products including horse boots, horse rugs or any other topics that have been raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine who are experts in the equestrian field.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Introducing-Poles-to-Your-Horse-Training&id=6621422] Introducing Poles to Your Horse Training
Monday, November 28, 2011
Horse Management Tips in Winter
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Erin_C_Brankowski]Erin C Brankowski
In recent years we have seen increasing amounts of bad weather over the winter. While snow and ice might be great to look at, it is not very practical when it comes to looking after your horse. In extreme weather conditions even the more simple routines can become difficult and it is important to plan ahead bearing in mind that everything will take much longer than usual.
The first thing to consider is the availability of water. Horses should have access to clean water at all times, which can be difficult when all the water troughs are frozen. When water is very cold horses tend to drink less. So to prevent the water from freezing quickly you can use warm water which will cool gradually, if you have access to this. It is also a good idea to keep a water container full in case the taps are frozen and you need access to water quickly.
It is important to consider whether the horse is warm enough. Even if they are normally turned out all the time, in extreme conditions horses can find this too cold for them. Make sure that they have a warm and waterproof rug if they are outside. Horses kept inside can also get cold especially if there is a draught as they are unable to move around freely to keep warm. It is important to consider whether you clip your horse as they will need a thicker rug than if they had their coat to keep them warm.
Food is another important factor; horses need to eat more food to keep warm in extreme cold. When turned out in the snow or frost, horses are often not able to get to the grass for grazing and there is limited nutritional value to it, it is important to increase the amount of hay they have either in the stable at night or in the field.
If your horse has been turned out in the snow then make sure you check their feet for ice/snow build up. Putting hoof oil on the underside of the hoof prevents snow and ice from building up under the hooves.
In addition, during adverse weather make sure that you keep an eye on your horse for any behavioural changes that may indicate they are happy or unwell. No one enjoys extreme weather and this includes horses, so it is important to take care of our animals during these trying times.
For further information on [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Horse-Rugs]horse rugs, horse boots, equine clothing or any other topics that have been raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine who are experts in the equestrian field.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horse-Management-Tips-in-Winter&id=6621430] Horse Management Tips in Winter
In recent years we have seen increasing amounts of bad weather over the winter. While snow and ice might be great to look at, it is not very practical when it comes to looking after your horse. In extreme weather conditions even the more simple routines can become difficult and it is important to plan ahead bearing in mind that everything will take much longer than usual.
The first thing to consider is the availability of water. Horses should have access to clean water at all times, which can be difficult when all the water troughs are frozen. When water is very cold horses tend to drink less. So to prevent the water from freezing quickly you can use warm water which will cool gradually, if you have access to this. It is also a good idea to keep a water container full in case the taps are frozen and you need access to water quickly.
It is important to consider whether the horse is warm enough. Even if they are normally turned out all the time, in extreme conditions horses can find this too cold for them. Make sure that they have a warm and waterproof rug if they are outside. Horses kept inside can also get cold especially if there is a draught as they are unable to move around freely to keep warm. It is important to consider whether you clip your horse as they will need a thicker rug than if they had their coat to keep them warm.
Food is another important factor; horses need to eat more food to keep warm in extreme cold. When turned out in the snow or frost, horses are often not able to get to the grass for grazing and there is limited nutritional value to it, it is important to increase the amount of hay they have either in the stable at night or in the field.
If your horse has been turned out in the snow then make sure you check their feet for ice/snow build up. Putting hoof oil on the underside of the hoof prevents snow and ice from building up under the hooves.
In addition, during adverse weather make sure that you keep an eye on your horse for any behavioural changes that may indicate they are happy or unwell. No one enjoys extreme weather and this includes horses, so it is important to take care of our animals during these trying times.
For further information on [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Horse-Rugs]horse rugs, horse boots, equine clothing or any other topics that have been raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine who are experts in the equestrian field.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horse-Management-Tips-in-Winter&id=6621430] Horse Management Tips in Winter
Saturday, November 26, 2011
How to Put a Bridle on a Horse
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Donna_J_Diehl]Donna J Diehl
Make sure the straps on the bridle are untangled. Allow the horse to see what you have in your hands by approaching from the front. Stay on the left side and always stay close to the horse's head. When handling the horse's ears remember to be gentle. Do not let the halter clink when you are approaching the horse as some horses will react to the noise.
Untie the halter rope and loop it over your arm. Make sure you can get out of the way if the horse jerks back. Unbuckle the halter and slip it over the muzzle and refasten it around the neck. This gives you some control so that the horse cannot walk off.
Hold the crown of the headstall in your right hand, the bit in the palm of your left hand. The noseband will encircle the horse's jaws. Ease the bit below the horse's mouth. Your right hand will be over the top of his head. Gently bring the bridle up the horse's face. If the horse does not open his mouth to accept the bit when it touches his mouth, insert your left thumb gently into the corner of his mouth so that it presses slightly on the gum. There is a gap here with no teeth. This should encourage the horse to open his mouth.
Being careful not to let the bit drop out of the horse's mouth, bring the crownpiece up over the horse's ears one at a time. Make sure that the horse's forelock is lying free over he browband. Make sure that the headstall fits and is not twisted. All parts of the bridle should be lying straight and flat before fastening the buckles.
Do the throatlatch up first. If this is a Western bridle the horse will be ready to go. If it is an English bridle you will need to fasten the noseband. A cavesson noseband should lie next to the horse's face underneath the cheekpieces and be fastened loosely. A drop noseband should be fastened tighter and lie below the bit.
When you unbridle the horse, first, buckle the halter loosely around the neck. This will keep the horse from running away with your saddle. Undo the noseband and then the throatlatch on the bridle. If a Western bridle undo the throatlatch. Bring the reins up the horse's neck, take hold of the reins and the crownpiece in one hand. Pull them gently over both ears at once. Lower the bridle slowly down the front of the horse's face. Allow him to spit out the bit. If it is English and has a noseband it will fall away of its own accord. Do not pull the bridle off too quickly as this will bang the bit against the horse's teeth and make him headshy.
There are many types of bridles but they are basically put on the horse and taken off the horse in the same way. For more information about bridles and other equine equipment take a quick look at rel=nofollow [http://www.thebestofhorses.com]thebestofhorses.com.
If you would like to see more information on horses and bridles take a quick look at [http://www.thebestofhorses.com]thebestofhorses.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Put-a-Bridle-on-a-Horse&id=6624875] How to Put a Bridle on a Horse
Make sure the straps on the bridle are untangled. Allow the horse to see what you have in your hands by approaching from the front. Stay on the left side and always stay close to the horse's head. When handling the horse's ears remember to be gentle. Do not let the halter clink when you are approaching the horse as some horses will react to the noise.
Untie the halter rope and loop it over your arm. Make sure you can get out of the way if the horse jerks back. Unbuckle the halter and slip it over the muzzle and refasten it around the neck. This gives you some control so that the horse cannot walk off.
Hold the crown of the headstall in your right hand, the bit in the palm of your left hand. The noseband will encircle the horse's jaws. Ease the bit below the horse's mouth. Your right hand will be over the top of his head. Gently bring the bridle up the horse's face. If the horse does not open his mouth to accept the bit when it touches his mouth, insert your left thumb gently into the corner of his mouth so that it presses slightly on the gum. There is a gap here with no teeth. This should encourage the horse to open his mouth.
Being careful not to let the bit drop out of the horse's mouth, bring the crownpiece up over the horse's ears one at a time. Make sure that the horse's forelock is lying free over he browband. Make sure that the headstall fits and is not twisted. All parts of the bridle should be lying straight and flat before fastening the buckles.
Do the throatlatch up first. If this is a Western bridle the horse will be ready to go. If it is an English bridle you will need to fasten the noseband. A cavesson noseband should lie next to the horse's face underneath the cheekpieces and be fastened loosely. A drop noseband should be fastened tighter and lie below the bit.
When you unbridle the horse, first, buckle the halter loosely around the neck. This will keep the horse from running away with your saddle. Undo the noseband and then the throatlatch on the bridle. If a Western bridle undo the throatlatch. Bring the reins up the horse's neck, take hold of the reins and the crownpiece in one hand. Pull them gently over both ears at once. Lower the bridle slowly down the front of the horse's face. Allow him to spit out the bit. If it is English and has a noseband it will fall away of its own accord. Do not pull the bridle off too quickly as this will bang the bit against the horse's teeth and make him headshy.
There are many types of bridles but they are basically put on the horse and taken off the horse in the same way. For more information about bridles and other equine equipment take a quick look at rel=nofollow [http://www.thebestofhorses.com]thebestofhorses.com.
If you would like to see more information on horses and bridles take a quick look at [http://www.thebestofhorses.com]thebestofhorses.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Put-a-Bridle-on-a-Horse&id=6624875] How to Put a Bridle on a Horse
Thursday, November 24, 2011
Listening With Horses
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Sheila_Moore]Sheila Moore
One of the joys of belonging to a diverse group of healers is the fact that it is possible to try out different modalities. Within the group that I personally belong to we have the opportunity to work with several types of animals. Recently a new course started up where we could experience working closely and intuitively with horses. We had all experienced communicating with horses before, and at a distance, but this was to be close up and we were to blend our thoughts and feelings with the horse for mutual benefit.
The first exercise involved standing next to the horse and slowly connecting to each of its chakras, noticing the change in energy and any colours that we saw. As we blended our energies with the horses they made it quite clear whether they liked the feel of us or not (they were free to move around), and it was interesting to note the different reactions with each person. We then sensed whether there were any discomforts showing up and if so what we thought they were. I was fortunate that the horse I was with liked my energy, she stood very still for me, and after a while I was able to see the colours of her aura (the electromagnetic field that surrounds all living things) which was a truly beautiful experience.
We had to then connect mentally again with the horse and ask it firstly what we could do to help it, and then what it could do to help us. My horse indicated that it could allow me to experience horses and that I would learn from it, and that it would like me to do something about the itches (it called them fleas) that were troubling it. This was a very sensible answer for me because I do not have a horse of my own and can only learn through other peoples horses, but I was a bit taken back about the mention of fleas as this was a very well loved, and cared for horse. The owner and trainer had said that we were to repeat exactly what we sensed the horses were communicating whatever it was, she laughed when I mentioned fleas and said that the poor horse was suffering from an allergy to something on her legs and feet, and "yes" she did itch.
The second experiment was quite different as we each had to stand alone in the corner of the paddock and the horse was loose to mooch around as it wished, to come to us or not. This time it was a different horse so that we had not already bonded with it. My horse firstly checked that her owner was not about to give her any titbits and then came straight over to me and looked deeply into my eyes. She was a big girl and I was slightly unsure of myself, however, we gazed at each other for quite a few moments and I patted her nose which she seemed to enjoy. For me this was a lovely experience that I had never had before. She then moved across the front of me, completely blocking me from view, and proceeded to eat the grass. I had taken a step back because she was so close, but actually felt that she was offering me some kind of protection as it would not have been possible for anything to get to me without moving her.
Her owner then came and moved her and we each had to say what we thought had taken place. I repeated that I thought I had been protected and that the horse was very comfortable with me, and other people gave their opinions which were fairly similar. We were then told to look at it differently and from another psychological angle. The horse was saying that I allow something, that I perceive to be stronger than me, to come in and push me out of the way. The fact that I took a step backwards when the horse came so close showed that when I felt insecure about something I allow people to push me to one side. It was also telling me that when I feel uncomfortable in a situation I 'comfort' eat.
That is actually very true I do 'comfort' eat, sadly, and I do sometimes allow people to dominate me because I don't like arguments and confrontation and in recent years that has been a factor that has caused me some unhappiness. I went home with many thoughts jumping around in my mind, I could also see how horses came to be used in so many therapeutic situations.
As I have said I do not own any horses and have to gain my experiences from other peoples, but one internet site that has a lot of useful information about connecting with all sorts of animals is the Trust Technique whose details I will list below.
Sheila Moore medium/healer/artist. http://www.trust-technique.com
email [mailto:crystalcaretherapies@btinternet.com]crystalcaretherapies@btinternet.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Listening-With-Horses&id=6630656] Listening With Horses
One of the joys of belonging to a diverse group of healers is the fact that it is possible to try out different modalities. Within the group that I personally belong to we have the opportunity to work with several types of animals. Recently a new course started up where we could experience working closely and intuitively with horses. We had all experienced communicating with horses before, and at a distance, but this was to be close up and we were to blend our thoughts and feelings with the horse for mutual benefit.
The first exercise involved standing next to the horse and slowly connecting to each of its chakras, noticing the change in energy and any colours that we saw. As we blended our energies with the horses they made it quite clear whether they liked the feel of us or not (they were free to move around), and it was interesting to note the different reactions with each person. We then sensed whether there were any discomforts showing up and if so what we thought they were. I was fortunate that the horse I was with liked my energy, she stood very still for me, and after a while I was able to see the colours of her aura (the electromagnetic field that surrounds all living things) which was a truly beautiful experience.
We had to then connect mentally again with the horse and ask it firstly what we could do to help it, and then what it could do to help us. My horse indicated that it could allow me to experience horses and that I would learn from it, and that it would like me to do something about the itches (it called them fleas) that were troubling it. This was a very sensible answer for me because I do not have a horse of my own and can only learn through other peoples horses, but I was a bit taken back about the mention of fleas as this was a very well loved, and cared for horse. The owner and trainer had said that we were to repeat exactly what we sensed the horses were communicating whatever it was, she laughed when I mentioned fleas and said that the poor horse was suffering from an allergy to something on her legs and feet, and "yes" she did itch.
The second experiment was quite different as we each had to stand alone in the corner of the paddock and the horse was loose to mooch around as it wished, to come to us or not. This time it was a different horse so that we had not already bonded with it. My horse firstly checked that her owner was not about to give her any titbits and then came straight over to me and looked deeply into my eyes. She was a big girl and I was slightly unsure of myself, however, we gazed at each other for quite a few moments and I patted her nose which she seemed to enjoy. For me this was a lovely experience that I had never had before. She then moved across the front of me, completely blocking me from view, and proceeded to eat the grass. I had taken a step back because she was so close, but actually felt that she was offering me some kind of protection as it would not have been possible for anything to get to me without moving her.
Her owner then came and moved her and we each had to say what we thought had taken place. I repeated that I thought I had been protected and that the horse was very comfortable with me, and other people gave their opinions which were fairly similar. We were then told to look at it differently and from another psychological angle. The horse was saying that I allow something, that I perceive to be stronger than me, to come in and push me out of the way. The fact that I took a step backwards when the horse came so close showed that when I felt insecure about something I allow people to push me to one side. It was also telling me that when I feel uncomfortable in a situation I 'comfort' eat.
That is actually very true I do 'comfort' eat, sadly, and I do sometimes allow people to dominate me because I don't like arguments and confrontation and in recent years that has been a factor that has caused me some unhappiness. I went home with many thoughts jumping around in my mind, I could also see how horses came to be used in so many therapeutic situations.
As I have said I do not own any horses and have to gain my experiences from other peoples, but one internet site that has a lot of useful information about connecting with all sorts of animals is the Trust Technique whose details I will list below.
Sheila Moore medium/healer/artist. http://www.trust-technique.com
email [mailto:crystalcaretherapies@btinternet.com]crystalcaretherapies@btinternet.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Listening-With-Horses&id=6630656] Listening With Horses
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
The Fundamental Characteristics of Horse Bridles and Halters
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aria_Lopez_Torres]Aria Lopez Torres
Equines are adored not simply for their natural splendor but also for their strength and momentum. Also, the rider must be able to connect with equines well in order for them to function proficiently. One of the many resources that can help in the efficient interaction between the rider and the equine are the bridles. Horse bridles are found on the equine's head. It is one way to boost the connection between the rider and the equine with regards to direction, flexibility and speed.
There are various types of equine bridles which are regularly used everywhere. The rider should know how to make use of the tool correctly to acquire good results. It must be used with patience, light pressure and it should be released when the horse responds and leg pressure can be used to support the cues of the bridle. On top of that, a precise size to the horse is an excellent aspect to its glorious performance. A mismatched bridle can detrimentally affect the equine's ease and comfort, stride and cooperation. Even though you will discover different types of equine bridles, they have common qualities which make them exceptional.
The Browband
A strap that rest across the forehead of the horse, just underneath the ears is called the browband. It is essential to prohibit the bridles from being pulled back over the ears and down the neck. Be certain that it suits snugly and would not pinch the horse. Various horse lovers who prefer western rel=nofollow [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/horse-bridles-for-sale/]horse-bridles because it does not use a browband, alternatively it uses two ear loops attached to the headpiece. Having either a browband or ear loops, a noseband is also being used to force a horse to drop its head. It is found above the nose but its efficiency and exact position can vary based on the style of bridle employed and riding discipline. Sometimes, cosmetic nosebands that usually do not apply any pressure to a horse's nose are preferred by owners.
The Cheekpiece
Another significant portion of the horse-bridle is the cheekpiece. It can determine the level of interaction between the reins and the bit. It has to suit properly because if it is fitted too freely the bit will rest low in the horse's mouth. It will lead to the bit to hit the horse's front teeth and the tongue to be subjected to uneasy pressure. This is unquestionably a detrimental experience for the horse and can negatively influence its operation. A suitably fit cheekpiece lets one wrinkle in the corners of the horse's mouth.
The Throatlash
A piece that is situated under the upper jaw near the neck is called the throatlash or also called throat latch. It holds the bridle in place and keeps the horse from rubbing the bridle off his head. Be certain that these horse bridles have the proper clearance of about three fingers to prevent constriction in the horse's breathing.
Check out these [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/horse-bridles-for-sale/]horse-bridles NOW!
Aria is a horse lover who wants to spend her leisure time horse riding. Being near to horses has a soothing effect to her stressful day.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Fundamental-Characteristics-of-Horse-Bridles-and-Halters&id=6628412] The Fundamental Characteristics of Horse Bridles and Halters
Equines are adored not simply for their natural splendor but also for their strength and momentum. Also, the rider must be able to connect with equines well in order for them to function proficiently. One of the many resources that can help in the efficient interaction between the rider and the equine are the bridles. Horse bridles are found on the equine's head. It is one way to boost the connection between the rider and the equine with regards to direction, flexibility and speed.
There are various types of equine bridles which are regularly used everywhere. The rider should know how to make use of the tool correctly to acquire good results. It must be used with patience, light pressure and it should be released when the horse responds and leg pressure can be used to support the cues of the bridle. On top of that, a precise size to the horse is an excellent aspect to its glorious performance. A mismatched bridle can detrimentally affect the equine's ease and comfort, stride and cooperation. Even though you will discover different types of equine bridles, they have common qualities which make them exceptional.
The Browband
A strap that rest across the forehead of the horse, just underneath the ears is called the browband. It is essential to prohibit the bridles from being pulled back over the ears and down the neck. Be certain that it suits snugly and would not pinch the horse. Various horse lovers who prefer western rel=nofollow [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/horse-bridles-for-sale/]horse-bridles because it does not use a browband, alternatively it uses two ear loops attached to the headpiece. Having either a browband or ear loops, a noseband is also being used to force a horse to drop its head. It is found above the nose but its efficiency and exact position can vary based on the style of bridle employed and riding discipline. Sometimes, cosmetic nosebands that usually do not apply any pressure to a horse's nose are preferred by owners.
The Cheekpiece
Another significant portion of the horse-bridle is the cheekpiece. It can determine the level of interaction between the reins and the bit. It has to suit properly because if it is fitted too freely the bit will rest low in the horse's mouth. It will lead to the bit to hit the horse's front teeth and the tongue to be subjected to uneasy pressure. This is unquestionably a detrimental experience for the horse and can negatively influence its operation. A suitably fit cheekpiece lets one wrinkle in the corners of the horse's mouth.
The Throatlash
A piece that is situated under the upper jaw near the neck is called the throatlash or also called throat latch. It holds the bridle in place and keeps the horse from rubbing the bridle off his head. Be certain that these horse bridles have the proper clearance of about three fingers to prevent constriction in the horse's breathing.
Check out these [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/horse-bridles-for-sale/]horse-bridles NOW!
Aria is a horse lover who wants to spend her leisure time horse riding. Being near to horses has a soothing effect to her stressful day.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Fundamental-Characteristics-of-Horse-Bridles-and-Halters&id=6628412] The Fundamental Characteristics of Horse Bridles and Halters
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Are Your Horse to Human Scales Balanced?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Patti_Bartsch,_Ph.D.]Patti Bartsch, Ph.D.
If you're like most equestrians your horse gets impeccable care including high quality feed, hay (and/or pasture) and supplements, a regular exercise program, and proper rest and downtime. Your horse has a team of people ensuring that he/she remains in top form. Their feet are regularly maintained, they are groomed regularly, and they may even have their own massage therapist, acupuncturist, or chiropractor. And if you're like most equestrians, you have almost none of these things for yourself.
Many equestrians focus the majority of their time, money, and energy on the holistic health of their horse without considering the fact that the horse is only half of the equation. Imagine one of those old-time scales where it will tip one way or the other if unbalanced (like the scales of justice). Mentally load up the scales where one half is the horse and one half is the rider. Start with time; how much time is spent on the health & wellness of the horse vs. the rider? Then imagine money being placed on the scale in the same way. Finally energy; are you more concerned about ensuring your horse is in top condition and is mentally focused than you are yourself? Most equestrians tip the scale toward their horse with time and it only gets worse from there. In order for the horse and rider team to perform to their highest potential, BOTH partners must be in balance of body, mind, and spirit.
People underestimate the importance of the equestrian's holistic health when it comes to their connection to their horse. They understand that a rider needs to be skilled, fit, and focused but often think that begins and ends in the ring. That's not enough. You need to think outside the ring. Certain foods improve your focus, healing ability, and energy level. Water is critical for detoxification. Yoga strengthens the core and improves balance and focus. Positive thinking, affirmations and visualizations are vital for accomplishing goals. Proper rest (quality and quantity) aides healing, focus, and energy levels.
Here are a few quick tips to help equestrians to come into holistic balance.
Eat Naturally- Avoid processed foods and be sure to eat 25-50% of fruits and veggies in their raw form.
Heal Naturally - Drink half your body weight in ounces of water each day to aid in detoxification, reducing inflammation, and improving your energy level. Have some arnica gel on hand for sore muscles, bumps, and bruises.
Move Naturally - Get some exercise beyond riding, grooming, and cleaning stalls. Consider yoga for its mind, body, spirit benefits.
Act Naturally - Forgive others and forgive yourself. Regret and animosity are toxic, cloud your mind, and impair your health.
Think Naturally - Incorporate positive self-talk and affirmations. No more "With my luck..." types of comments unless they are along the lines of "With my luck, I'll accomplish my goals".
Sleep Naturally - Set a regular time to go to bed and get up each day. Be sure to get at least 7 hours of sleep each night. Keep the lights dim and get off of the computer at least one hour before going to bed
Live Naturally - spend some time connecting with your horse in a relaxed environment. Hand-graze them. Spend some extra time grooming and fussing over them. Go for a trail ride. Share an apple.
When the equestrian is in balance of body, mind, and spirit, the horse is better able to relax, focus, and connect with the rider so that the team can be stronger and better bonded.
Patti Bartsch, M.A., Ph.D. is the owner of Naturally Unbridled ( http://www.NaturallyUnbridled.com ), a holistic life & wellness coaching company. She is a Certified Clinical Practitioner and Holistic Life & Wellness Coach with the American Council of Holistic Medicine as well as an Adjunct Professor for Kingdom College of Natural Health. Patti combines her unique background in biotechnology, nutrition, education and holistic wellness to empower her clients to achieve their optimal life and health through simple, natural methods. Visit http://www.NaturallyUnbridled.com to take a free quiz to see how Naturally Unbridled you are and receive a FREE GIFT - the "Heal Naturally" chapter from her book "7 Steps to a Naturally Unbridled Life". Dr. Bartsch is available for interviews, networking and private and group coaching.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Are-Your-Horse-to-Human-Scales-Balanced?&id=6629741] Are Your Horse to Human Scales Balanced?
If you're like most equestrians your horse gets impeccable care including high quality feed, hay (and/or pasture) and supplements, a regular exercise program, and proper rest and downtime. Your horse has a team of people ensuring that he/she remains in top form. Their feet are regularly maintained, they are groomed regularly, and they may even have their own massage therapist, acupuncturist, or chiropractor. And if you're like most equestrians, you have almost none of these things for yourself.
Many equestrians focus the majority of their time, money, and energy on the holistic health of their horse without considering the fact that the horse is only half of the equation. Imagine one of those old-time scales where it will tip one way or the other if unbalanced (like the scales of justice). Mentally load up the scales where one half is the horse and one half is the rider. Start with time; how much time is spent on the health & wellness of the horse vs. the rider? Then imagine money being placed on the scale in the same way. Finally energy; are you more concerned about ensuring your horse is in top condition and is mentally focused than you are yourself? Most equestrians tip the scale toward their horse with time and it only gets worse from there. In order for the horse and rider team to perform to their highest potential, BOTH partners must be in balance of body, mind, and spirit.
People underestimate the importance of the equestrian's holistic health when it comes to their connection to their horse. They understand that a rider needs to be skilled, fit, and focused but often think that begins and ends in the ring. That's not enough. You need to think outside the ring. Certain foods improve your focus, healing ability, and energy level. Water is critical for detoxification. Yoga strengthens the core and improves balance and focus. Positive thinking, affirmations and visualizations are vital for accomplishing goals. Proper rest (quality and quantity) aides healing, focus, and energy levels.
Here are a few quick tips to help equestrians to come into holistic balance.
Eat Naturally- Avoid processed foods and be sure to eat 25-50% of fruits and veggies in their raw form.
Heal Naturally - Drink half your body weight in ounces of water each day to aid in detoxification, reducing inflammation, and improving your energy level. Have some arnica gel on hand for sore muscles, bumps, and bruises.
Move Naturally - Get some exercise beyond riding, grooming, and cleaning stalls. Consider yoga for its mind, body, spirit benefits.
Act Naturally - Forgive others and forgive yourself. Regret and animosity are toxic, cloud your mind, and impair your health.
Think Naturally - Incorporate positive self-talk and affirmations. No more "With my luck..." types of comments unless they are along the lines of "With my luck, I'll accomplish my goals".
Sleep Naturally - Set a regular time to go to bed and get up each day. Be sure to get at least 7 hours of sleep each night. Keep the lights dim and get off of the computer at least one hour before going to bed
Live Naturally - spend some time connecting with your horse in a relaxed environment. Hand-graze them. Spend some extra time grooming and fussing over them. Go for a trail ride. Share an apple.
When the equestrian is in balance of body, mind, and spirit, the horse is better able to relax, focus, and connect with the rider so that the team can be stronger and better bonded.
Patti Bartsch, M.A., Ph.D. is the owner of Naturally Unbridled ( http://www.NaturallyUnbridled.com ), a holistic life & wellness coaching company. She is a Certified Clinical Practitioner and Holistic Life & Wellness Coach with the American Council of Holistic Medicine as well as an Adjunct Professor for Kingdom College of Natural Health. Patti combines her unique background in biotechnology, nutrition, education and holistic wellness to empower her clients to achieve their optimal life and health through simple, natural methods. Visit http://www.NaturallyUnbridled.com to take a free quiz to see how Naturally Unbridled you are and receive a FREE GIFT - the "Heal Naturally" chapter from her book "7 Steps to a Naturally Unbridled Life". Dr. Bartsch is available for interviews, networking and private and group coaching.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Are-Your-Horse-to-Human-Scales-Balanced?&id=6629741] Are Your Horse to Human Scales Balanced?
Friday, November 18, 2011
Selling Your Horse Effectively on Advertising Websites
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Alan_T_West-Robinson]Alan T West-Robinson
Why is it that so many sellers fail to take full advantage of the web advertising medium when selling their Horse or Pony and consequently limit the capability of prospective buyers to make informed decisions?
There is no doubt that the web represents a great opportunity to buy and sell horses. The benefits over and above traditional magazine advertising are significant to both buyer and seller.
Most of the professional equine advertising sites allow up to 4 photographs and a video clip to be included in their advert. The following statistics from a leading equestrian advertising site may surprise you.
Bear in mind this is one of the best laid out sites and it is currently free to advertise with up to 4 photos and a video clip with every advert. From all adverts placed:
� Around 8.5% had no photograph at all
� Around 51% had just one photograph included
� Around 8.5% had two photographs and
� 31% had four photographs
� Amazingly NO (zero) video clips have been uploaded
These websites can be likened to a High Street and individual adverts likened to shops in that street. The most successful shops have a great shop window - designed to spark interest in the potential shopper and encourage them to enter the shop.
Now consider the shop window scenario in the context of the website. Every advertisement placed has a summary advert (shop window). This should have the best photograph available and an excellent, summary paragraph designed to encourage the shopper to "click" for more details - in other words, to enter the shop.
Now imagine entering a shop and finding only one item there - the same item you have just seen in the shop window! It doesn't really work does it? At this point there should be more photographs - ideally as many as the website permits - and the all important video!
The video really is important. Unlike a High Street shop, on a website you cannot touch and feel the product. A video on a website is the next best thing. It allows a prospective buyer to see your horse doing what it has been trained to do. The video clip should correlate with rest of the advertisement for example: if the horse excels at jumping, there should be a video of it jumping and not one where it is being walked around a yard on a lead reign.
Now the words: With maybe a thousand words at your disposal the key here is to put yourself in the position of the buyer. You may love your horse and will want to wax lyrical about it's temperament for example. These are important components of your text but don't get carried away. Use the space to also imagine what a prospective buyer is looking for and convey this information truthfully and passionately.
Apart from basic acronyms avoid using them and instead present something that is well written and that will excite a prospective buyer to enquire further.
All simple, common sense stuff... and so I come back to my original question at the top of this page - "Why is it that so many sellers fail to take full advantage of the web advertising medium when selling their Horse or Pony and consequently limit the capability of prospective buyers to make informed decisions?"
I think the answer is all about perception and mind-set. Despite the fact that the internet it is now a huge part of most people's lives, when it comes to selling something we own privately, many of us still think of "the classifieds" in some form of printed matter as the first and natural choice.
In fact the "reach" with this form of advertising is becoming increasingly limited and is not therefore great value for money. Furthermore the opportunity to really showcase your Horse or Pony is limited to perhaps a few things like the use of colour and font types/densities.
I believe there is still a perception that placing an advertisement in a printed magazine is "easier" than placing it on the web. This is simply not the case - not only is the converse true but web advertising is far quicker to complete and the "ad" is usually "out there" in front of your target audience within 24 hours.
These two factors - perception and mind-set, mean many sellers take a half hearted approach to the exercise of placing their private advertisement on a website.
Instead they should prepare a small portfolio of good quality, meaningful landscaped orientated photographs and a short video of their horse, doing what it has been trained to do. Add to this some carefully written text with the buyer's perspective in mind and these simple preparatory steps will ensure the best possible chance of selling your horse in the best medium available and with the widest audience.
Alan West-Robinson - http://www.stabletraders.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Selling-Your-Horse-Effectively-on-Advertising-Websites&id=6613085] Selling Your Horse Effectively on Advertising Websites
Why is it that so many sellers fail to take full advantage of the web advertising medium when selling their Horse or Pony and consequently limit the capability of prospective buyers to make informed decisions?
There is no doubt that the web represents a great opportunity to buy and sell horses. The benefits over and above traditional magazine advertising are significant to both buyer and seller.
Most of the professional equine advertising sites allow up to 4 photographs and a video clip to be included in their advert. The following statistics from a leading equestrian advertising site may surprise you.
Bear in mind this is one of the best laid out sites and it is currently free to advertise with up to 4 photos and a video clip with every advert. From all adverts placed:
� Around 8.5% had no photograph at all
� Around 51% had just one photograph included
� Around 8.5% had two photographs and
� 31% had four photographs
� Amazingly NO (zero) video clips have been uploaded
These websites can be likened to a High Street and individual adverts likened to shops in that street. The most successful shops have a great shop window - designed to spark interest in the potential shopper and encourage them to enter the shop.
Now consider the shop window scenario in the context of the website. Every advertisement placed has a summary advert (shop window). This should have the best photograph available and an excellent, summary paragraph designed to encourage the shopper to "click" for more details - in other words, to enter the shop.
Now imagine entering a shop and finding only one item there - the same item you have just seen in the shop window! It doesn't really work does it? At this point there should be more photographs - ideally as many as the website permits - and the all important video!
The video really is important. Unlike a High Street shop, on a website you cannot touch and feel the product. A video on a website is the next best thing. It allows a prospective buyer to see your horse doing what it has been trained to do. The video clip should correlate with rest of the advertisement for example: if the horse excels at jumping, there should be a video of it jumping and not one where it is being walked around a yard on a lead reign.
Now the words: With maybe a thousand words at your disposal the key here is to put yourself in the position of the buyer. You may love your horse and will want to wax lyrical about it's temperament for example. These are important components of your text but don't get carried away. Use the space to also imagine what a prospective buyer is looking for and convey this information truthfully and passionately.
Apart from basic acronyms avoid using them and instead present something that is well written and that will excite a prospective buyer to enquire further.
All simple, common sense stuff... and so I come back to my original question at the top of this page - "Why is it that so many sellers fail to take full advantage of the web advertising medium when selling their Horse or Pony and consequently limit the capability of prospective buyers to make informed decisions?"
I think the answer is all about perception and mind-set. Despite the fact that the internet it is now a huge part of most people's lives, when it comes to selling something we own privately, many of us still think of "the classifieds" in some form of printed matter as the first and natural choice.
In fact the "reach" with this form of advertising is becoming increasingly limited and is not therefore great value for money. Furthermore the opportunity to really showcase your Horse or Pony is limited to perhaps a few things like the use of colour and font types/densities.
I believe there is still a perception that placing an advertisement in a printed magazine is "easier" than placing it on the web. This is simply not the case - not only is the converse true but web advertising is far quicker to complete and the "ad" is usually "out there" in front of your target audience within 24 hours.
These two factors - perception and mind-set, mean many sellers take a half hearted approach to the exercise of placing their private advertisement on a website.
Instead they should prepare a small portfolio of good quality, meaningful landscaped orientated photographs and a short video of their horse, doing what it has been trained to do. Add to this some carefully written text with the buyer's perspective in mind and these simple preparatory steps will ensure the best possible chance of selling your horse in the best medium available and with the widest audience.
Alan West-Robinson - http://www.stabletraders.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Selling-Your-Horse-Effectively-on-Advertising-Websites&id=6613085] Selling Your Horse Effectively on Advertising Websites
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
How to Fit a Western Saddle to the Rider
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kathy_I_Yaskin]Kathy I Yaskin
Many factors come into play when determining proper saddle fit to the rider. Saddle type, seat size and shape may not be as crucial as correct fit to the horse, but if the fit to the rider isn't right to begin with, you will find yourself being very uncomfortable, sore and stiff after each ride. If you are uncomfortable in the saddle, the horse will be the first to notice and may display unwanted behavior. An uncomfortable seat results in incorrect balance and position of the rider, and will make giving aids to the horse difficult. To ensure a good fit for the rider you want to take into account the type of saddle, size of the seat, the shape of the seat, stirrups length and rigging. If you are unfamiliar with a Western Saddle, it would be helpful to find a detailed diagram indicating the various parts.
If you purchase a barrel racing saddle or trail saddle you would get a deeper seat than for a reining saddle. Obviously a seat that is too big will not feel as secure and that is too small will begin to be uncomfortable after several hours in the saddle (or sooner). If you have been using an English saddle you would not use the same measurements for the western seat. The English seat size is measured differently than the western seat size. Western saddle seat size is measured from the back of the fork (base of the horn) to the top middle edge of the cantle, size to rider can be checked by placing four fingers behind the rider's seat to the top of the cantle; this check can also help the rider determine the proper positioning in the saddle
The following guidelines are used to determine the seat size:
-Youth and preteens would use size 13 inch or 14 inch seat.
-Pre-teen or small adult female would use a 14 inch seat or a 15 inch seat.
-Most women will fit in a 15 inch or 16 inch seat.
-Men up to 150 lbs. would fit into a 15 inch or 16 inch seat.
- For men weighing over 230 lbs. would fit an 18 inch seat.
Again these are only general guidelines as you start your search for that perfect fitting saddle. You will have to try several saddles of different types, sizes and shapes; this is worth your time! Otherwise you just might find yourself walking your horse back to the barn on foot!
There are a number of measurements in addition to seat size that will determine how well the fit of the western saddle is to the rider. The depth and angle of the seat, the slope and dish of the cantle, and the style in angle of the fork, all combine with the seat size to determine how much room is available in a particular seat. If you are not sure of how to determine if the saddle fits you, ask your local saddle shop for help and advice. In my experience when dealing with reputable dealer if you're shopping for a new saddle you will be able to take the saddle home and take it for a ride providing that you are careful not to mark the saddle up, get it dirty and that you bring it back in "new" condition. It's always best to try a few saddles to get a feel of the different types of seats. Now that you have determined if the saddle fits you, you must now also determine if the saddle fits your horse. You can refer back to my last article; "Saddle Fitting Your Horse - Where to Fit a Western Saddle" for additional information to determine if your new saddle fits your horse.
Summary:
Finding a saddle that properly fits the rider and allows proper contact with the horse is important for an enjoyable ride, allowing many hours of happy trail riding for you and your horse. Taking time to evaluate saddles before buying can lend to years of enjoyment and save you a lot of time, frustration, and money.
......happy trails!
Kathy Yaskin, http://BestBuyHorseTack.com is your premier online horse tack connection. We work very hard to bring you quality products at the best price. We offer products that we would use on our own horses, so you can have complete confidence in your every purchase.
Having been a professional horse trainer, clinician and riding instructor for the past 23 year, I understand your needs and have extensive knowledge of equestrian tack, training and horse behavior.
You can find more articles at http://BestBuyHorseTack.com While you are there be sure to subscribe to our monthly Newsletter, Training and Tack Tips and Blog Forum.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Fit-a-Western-Saddle-to-the-Rider&id=6628561] How to Fit a Western Saddle to the Rider
Many factors come into play when determining proper saddle fit to the rider. Saddle type, seat size and shape may not be as crucial as correct fit to the horse, but if the fit to the rider isn't right to begin with, you will find yourself being very uncomfortable, sore and stiff after each ride. If you are uncomfortable in the saddle, the horse will be the first to notice and may display unwanted behavior. An uncomfortable seat results in incorrect balance and position of the rider, and will make giving aids to the horse difficult. To ensure a good fit for the rider you want to take into account the type of saddle, size of the seat, the shape of the seat, stirrups length and rigging. If you are unfamiliar with a Western Saddle, it would be helpful to find a detailed diagram indicating the various parts.
If you purchase a barrel racing saddle or trail saddle you would get a deeper seat than for a reining saddle. Obviously a seat that is too big will not feel as secure and that is too small will begin to be uncomfortable after several hours in the saddle (or sooner). If you have been using an English saddle you would not use the same measurements for the western seat. The English seat size is measured differently than the western seat size. Western saddle seat size is measured from the back of the fork (base of the horn) to the top middle edge of the cantle, size to rider can be checked by placing four fingers behind the rider's seat to the top of the cantle; this check can also help the rider determine the proper positioning in the saddle
The following guidelines are used to determine the seat size:
-Youth and preteens would use size 13 inch or 14 inch seat.
-Pre-teen or small adult female would use a 14 inch seat or a 15 inch seat.
-Most women will fit in a 15 inch or 16 inch seat.
-Men up to 150 lbs. would fit into a 15 inch or 16 inch seat.
- For men weighing over 230 lbs. would fit an 18 inch seat.
Again these are only general guidelines as you start your search for that perfect fitting saddle. You will have to try several saddles of different types, sizes and shapes; this is worth your time! Otherwise you just might find yourself walking your horse back to the barn on foot!
There are a number of measurements in addition to seat size that will determine how well the fit of the western saddle is to the rider. The depth and angle of the seat, the slope and dish of the cantle, and the style in angle of the fork, all combine with the seat size to determine how much room is available in a particular seat. If you are not sure of how to determine if the saddle fits you, ask your local saddle shop for help and advice. In my experience when dealing with reputable dealer if you're shopping for a new saddle you will be able to take the saddle home and take it for a ride providing that you are careful not to mark the saddle up, get it dirty and that you bring it back in "new" condition. It's always best to try a few saddles to get a feel of the different types of seats. Now that you have determined if the saddle fits you, you must now also determine if the saddle fits your horse. You can refer back to my last article; "Saddle Fitting Your Horse - Where to Fit a Western Saddle" for additional information to determine if your new saddle fits your horse.
Summary:
Finding a saddle that properly fits the rider and allows proper contact with the horse is important for an enjoyable ride, allowing many hours of happy trail riding for you and your horse. Taking time to evaluate saddles before buying can lend to years of enjoyment and save you a lot of time, frustration, and money.
......happy trails!
Kathy Yaskin, http://BestBuyHorseTack.com is your premier online horse tack connection. We work very hard to bring you quality products at the best price. We offer products that we would use on our own horses, so you can have complete confidence in your every purchase.
Having been a professional horse trainer, clinician and riding instructor for the past 23 year, I understand your needs and have extensive knowledge of equestrian tack, training and horse behavior.
You can find more articles at http://BestBuyHorseTack.com While you are there be sure to subscribe to our monthly Newsletter, Training and Tack Tips and Blog Forum.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Fit-a-Western-Saddle-to-the-Rider&id=6628561] How to Fit a Western Saddle to the Rider
Monday, November 14, 2011
Everything You Need to Know About The Exmoor Pony
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Margaret_Tettey]Margaret Tettey
The Exmoor Pony is a rare, historic breed of horse named for an area of Southwest England. Known as its original habitat and as the prime location for Exmoor Ponies throughout the ages, it is a wild land on the moors. From this harsh yet beautiful setting, a primal breed of horse has endured the ages. The Exmoor Pony has been running wild and free throughout the centuries, bringing to mind the wild Mustangs of American heritage. It is even believed that the Exmoor Pony migrated from Alaska and into Asia by way of an ancient land bridge based on skeletal remains that were unearthed and studied. Prehistoric paintings document its travels to regions of Africa but the Exmoor region is considered its final destination. The Exmoor Pony is a symbol of the bold and robust spirit of the British nation and has been carefully protected to the present day.
The Exmoor Pony has a unique appearance, setting it apart from other breeds. It has a broad forehead with large eyes. Wide nostrils and short, pointy ears are other features of note. It has a slightly larger head as well as a sturdy build. It is broad, has a deep ribcage, and a level back. It has short legs, a thick mane and tail. Its coat is thick and resistant to water, its brown colouring distinctive with pale markings on it muzzle and underside that are never white. Everything about this horse is geared for power and survival, providing it with the characteristics needed to withstand adverse conditions and the hands of time.
Since its inception in 1921, the Exmoor Pony Society has closely guarded this fine breed of horses. Their original intent was for preservation, protecting the herd and maintaining its purity. At that point, domestication did occur in some instances until they were used as carriage horses, work horses, and for riding. Since that time, Exmoor accommodation has continued on the moors of Exmoor with ponies running wild. However, they have been brought to other parts of the world where they are raised as well. The Exmoor Pony Society has strict rules to ensure the lines of this breed continue to be pure. They are inspected annually and any foals that are considered true Exmoor Ponies are branded with a star on the shoulder. Whether they are running wild in their homeland or kept on a ranch, the main goal of any horse enthusiast should be preserving their integrity. This unique breed of horse has preserved in a form much the same as its ancient ancestors, admired for its strength and durability into the present day. They are a part of Britain's heritage, safeguarded by its people.
To see the Exmoor Pony for yourself hiring one of the many luxury Exmoor accommodations available would set you in good stead to go pony spotting on the wild moors. There are many other types of birds and animals unique to the region along with lots of more common breads throughout the UK.
For further details on leisure and tourism in Devon and Exmoor, please visit [http://www.highcliffehouse.co.uk]Highcliffe House who offer [http://www.highcliffehouse.co.uk/exmoor.html]Exmoor accommodation for people looking to visit the area.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-The-Exmoor-Pony&id=6635950] Everything You Need to Know About The Exmoor Pony
The Exmoor Pony is a rare, historic breed of horse named for an area of Southwest England. Known as its original habitat and as the prime location for Exmoor Ponies throughout the ages, it is a wild land on the moors. From this harsh yet beautiful setting, a primal breed of horse has endured the ages. The Exmoor Pony has been running wild and free throughout the centuries, bringing to mind the wild Mustangs of American heritage. It is even believed that the Exmoor Pony migrated from Alaska and into Asia by way of an ancient land bridge based on skeletal remains that were unearthed and studied. Prehistoric paintings document its travels to regions of Africa but the Exmoor region is considered its final destination. The Exmoor Pony is a symbol of the bold and robust spirit of the British nation and has been carefully protected to the present day.
The Exmoor Pony has a unique appearance, setting it apart from other breeds. It has a broad forehead with large eyes. Wide nostrils and short, pointy ears are other features of note. It has a slightly larger head as well as a sturdy build. It is broad, has a deep ribcage, and a level back. It has short legs, a thick mane and tail. Its coat is thick and resistant to water, its brown colouring distinctive with pale markings on it muzzle and underside that are never white. Everything about this horse is geared for power and survival, providing it with the characteristics needed to withstand adverse conditions and the hands of time.
Since its inception in 1921, the Exmoor Pony Society has closely guarded this fine breed of horses. Their original intent was for preservation, protecting the herd and maintaining its purity. At that point, domestication did occur in some instances until they were used as carriage horses, work horses, and for riding. Since that time, Exmoor accommodation has continued on the moors of Exmoor with ponies running wild. However, they have been brought to other parts of the world where they are raised as well. The Exmoor Pony Society has strict rules to ensure the lines of this breed continue to be pure. They are inspected annually and any foals that are considered true Exmoor Ponies are branded with a star on the shoulder. Whether they are running wild in their homeland or kept on a ranch, the main goal of any horse enthusiast should be preserving their integrity. This unique breed of horse has preserved in a form much the same as its ancient ancestors, admired for its strength and durability into the present day. They are a part of Britain's heritage, safeguarded by its people.
To see the Exmoor Pony for yourself hiring one of the many luxury Exmoor accommodations available would set you in good stead to go pony spotting on the wild moors. There are many other types of birds and animals unique to the region along with lots of more common breads throughout the UK.
For further details on leisure and tourism in Devon and Exmoor, please visit [http://www.highcliffehouse.co.uk]Highcliffe House who offer [http://www.highcliffehouse.co.uk/exmoor.html]Exmoor accommodation for people looking to visit the area.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-The-Exmoor-Pony&id=6635950] Everything You Need to Know About The Exmoor Pony
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Horse's Anti-Inflammatory Supplement
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Diane_Dulmage]Diane Dulmage
Horse's anatomy enables them to use their power and speed with a well-developed sense of balance to gallop away from their predator in the wild. They use their powerful legs all the time even when sleeping. For this reason, the joints of the horse can really suffer from too much strain just like humans. This is where a good quality horse's anti-inflammatory supplement can become really necessary. This supplement needs to be made specially to relieve the inflammation of the horse's joints, as well as other parts of its body that might also be the cause of other inflammatory conditions. Just like humans, horses can suffer from arthritis that could diminish its running speed or worst, it might end up crippled.
Anti-inflammatory substances
There are two substances that are said to be found in anti-Inflammatory supplements: Glucosamine and Methylsulfonylmethane. The purpose of the Glucosamine is to give treatment on the horse's joints just like the usual anti-Inflammatory supplements given to humans. This substance is said to be naturally produced in both an animal's and a human's body; specifically in the cartilage.
The cartilage is a flexible tissue which can be found in the joints, and other numerous parts of the body. Unlike other connective tissues like those that contain blood vessels, cartilage heals very slowly. In the case of a horse, their cartilage is easily worn down as time passes by.
However, it is said that while a horse's body is young, it is still able to produce enough cartilage to keep on replacing the areas where the cartilage becomes worn. Although the Glucosamine is a helpful substance, it may not be enough to completely relieve any inflammation. And, there could be some pain you will need to deal with too. This is where the help of Methylsulfonylmethane comes into play.
It's been said that the purpose of Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is to relieve pain, which in itself apparently can cause inflammation. MSM is said to be an organic form of sulfur, which acts to remove fluids and toxins from cells. And, sulfur is said to support healthy muscles, tendons and ligaments. Some researchers have claimed they've noted results from using MSM when it's used for post-exercise muscle pain.
Benefits of Anti-inflammatory supplements
The benefits found in anti-inflammatory supplements are primarily for the purpose of treating joint pain and arthritis in horses. Aside from the substances detailed above, there are some supplements available in the marketplace today that have more than two primary substances, adding up benefits for the horses. One example is supplements with Chondroitin, which is said to be a major component of cartilage. Claims have been made that Chondroitin helps keep cartilage healthy by absorbing fluids into connective tissues. Apparently, it also works to block enzymes that break down cartilage, while providing 'building blocks' so the body can produce new cartilage.
The joints of a horse being what I deem to be the most vital part of its body, I feel it is very important to treat any joint problems correctly, right from the start. Joint diseases such as inflammation and/or arthritis seem to be the biggest problem for horses, and can be one of the hardest to treat. By using horses anti-inflammatory supplement along with proper care, you'll be able to keep your horse both happy and healthy. For more details on supplements, you may want to visit our website: http://buycurost.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horses-Anti-Inflammatory-Supplement&id=6639773] Horse's Anti-Inflammatory Supplement
Horse's anatomy enables them to use their power and speed with a well-developed sense of balance to gallop away from their predator in the wild. They use their powerful legs all the time even when sleeping. For this reason, the joints of the horse can really suffer from too much strain just like humans. This is where a good quality horse's anti-inflammatory supplement can become really necessary. This supplement needs to be made specially to relieve the inflammation of the horse's joints, as well as other parts of its body that might also be the cause of other inflammatory conditions. Just like humans, horses can suffer from arthritis that could diminish its running speed or worst, it might end up crippled.
Anti-inflammatory substances
There are two substances that are said to be found in anti-Inflammatory supplements: Glucosamine and Methylsulfonylmethane. The purpose of the Glucosamine is to give treatment on the horse's joints just like the usual anti-Inflammatory supplements given to humans. This substance is said to be naturally produced in both an animal's and a human's body; specifically in the cartilage.
The cartilage is a flexible tissue which can be found in the joints, and other numerous parts of the body. Unlike other connective tissues like those that contain blood vessels, cartilage heals very slowly. In the case of a horse, their cartilage is easily worn down as time passes by.
However, it is said that while a horse's body is young, it is still able to produce enough cartilage to keep on replacing the areas where the cartilage becomes worn. Although the Glucosamine is a helpful substance, it may not be enough to completely relieve any inflammation. And, there could be some pain you will need to deal with too. This is where the help of Methylsulfonylmethane comes into play.
It's been said that the purpose of Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is to relieve pain, which in itself apparently can cause inflammation. MSM is said to be an organic form of sulfur, which acts to remove fluids and toxins from cells. And, sulfur is said to support healthy muscles, tendons and ligaments. Some researchers have claimed they've noted results from using MSM when it's used for post-exercise muscle pain.
Benefits of Anti-inflammatory supplements
The benefits found in anti-inflammatory supplements are primarily for the purpose of treating joint pain and arthritis in horses. Aside from the substances detailed above, there are some supplements available in the marketplace today that have more than two primary substances, adding up benefits for the horses. One example is supplements with Chondroitin, which is said to be a major component of cartilage. Claims have been made that Chondroitin helps keep cartilage healthy by absorbing fluids into connective tissues. Apparently, it also works to block enzymes that break down cartilage, while providing 'building blocks' so the body can produce new cartilage.
The joints of a horse being what I deem to be the most vital part of its body, I feel it is very important to treat any joint problems correctly, right from the start. Joint diseases such as inflammation and/or arthritis seem to be the biggest problem for horses, and can be one of the hardest to treat. By using horses anti-inflammatory supplement along with proper care, you'll be able to keep your horse both happy and healthy. For more details on supplements, you may want to visit our website: http://buycurost.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horses-Anti-Inflammatory-Supplement&id=6639773] Horse's Anti-Inflammatory Supplement
Thursday, November 10, 2011
How To Teach a Horse Manners In Less Time
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jodi_M_Wilson]Jodi M Wilson
Sometimes we say things without listening to what we are saying. I was going to be caring for some horses while their owners were away on vacation and they said something that seemed a bit silly to me. "This one likes to goof off when you are taking her to the turnout sometimes, but not to worry, she won't do anything BAD. She is just excited to get out because I don't have enough time to work with her." I kept that in mind and decided to challenge myself. How long would it really take and how much effort would I have to put out in order to make a change in this horse's behavior? I took my challenge and in two days, just walking to and back from turn out, she was leading politely. Just five minutes twice a day for two days. How much effort? All I did was ask the mare to back ten steps every time she tried to jump in front of me or act silly.
Here is the thing, the statement made about the horse pointed to one of my top pet peeves, "My horse won't hurt me, he likes me." Try going to the emergency room and ask how many kids they check in a month with broken limbs due to "rough housing." The kids like each other, but when an individual is not paying attention to what they are doing someone always gets hurt, just ask your mom. Now let's add a hyped up 900+ pound animal that is dancing around your meager 100+ pound body "just wanting to have a little fun," and you see the odds of you getting hurt just skyrocketed. Yet, only ten minutes a day can start making changes in your horse's behavior if you will just commit to doing something positive with your horse every day.
Sounds too easy to be true, that in just 10 minutes you could be paving the way to a rewarding relationship with your horse without even saddling up. Well, it's not. Just decide to teach your horse one part of one lesson until it is learned then move to the next step. For example: This week I will teach my horse where to put his head for bridling and haltering. Then, each time you pass your horse's stall, walk in pet him and place your right hand on his poll with slight downward pressure and your left hand on the bridge of his nose with slight pressure toward your chest. As soon as you see the ears lower and his head bend toward you, release and either ask again or leave the stall. Yes, it can be that simple.
Well, you say, I cannot touch my horse's poll. Then you will start your lessons even further back. You will run your hand to the point just before your horse pulls away and take your hand off there. Get the yes answer from your horse several times on both sides then take your hand a fraction of an inch closer. Spend a few minutes every time you pass your horse every day and you will see his trust grow. You are on your way to building a fine structure of communication with your horse instead of propping up a run down stick shed with more rotten sticks.
The point really is to make sure every interaction you have with your horse counts for something positive. You as a horse owner can take the time to teach your horse to be rude and unruly by doing nothing, or spend the same amount of time teaching the horse to be kind and well mannered. If you will take the energy and time you use to make excuses, show off battle scars, and tell war stories and spend it instead teaching your horse what is expected of it, you will find that five minutes twice a day can go a long, long way in creating a horse you can brag about instead of whine about.
Jodi Wilson is a recognized authority on the subject of horse training and has spent almost 30 years developing training techniques and solutions for horse owners no matter the discipline or breed.
Jodi is an Accredited Josh Lyons trainer, and is Certified in John Lyons training techniques. Her website, [http://Jodi-Wilson.com]http://Jodi-Wilson.com, provides a wealth of information to improve the relationship between horse and rider. Jodi is also available for clinics and demonstrations as well as lessons, apprenticeships, and horse training.
Jodi has trained and competed in Reining, Sorting, Jumping, Dressage, English and Western Pleasure, Trail and Problem Solving.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Teach-a-Horse-Manners-In-Less-Time&id=6652529] How To Teach a Horse Manners In Less Time
Sometimes we say things without listening to what we are saying. I was going to be caring for some horses while their owners were away on vacation and they said something that seemed a bit silly to me. "This one likes to goof off when you are taking her to the turnout sometimes, but not to worry, she won't do anything BAD. She is just excited to get out because I don't have enough time to work with her." I kept that in mind and decided to challenge myself. How long would it really take and how much effort would I have to put out in order to make a change in this horse's behavior? I took my challenge and in two days, just walking to and back from turn out, she was leading politely. Just five minutes twice a day for two days. How much effort? All I did was ask the mare to back ten steps every time she tried to jump in front of me or act silly.
Here is the thing, the statement made about the horse pointed to one of my top pet peeves, "My horse won't hurt me, he likes me." Try going to the emergency room and ask how many kids they check in a month with broken limbs due to "rough housing." The kids like each other, but when an individual is not paying attention to what they are doing someone always gets hurt, just ask your mom. Now let's add a hyped up 900+ pound animal that is dancing around your meager 100+ pound body "just wanting to have a little fun," and you see the odds of you getting hurt just skyrocketed. Yet, only ten minutes a day can start making changes in your horse's behavior if you will just commit to doing something positive with your horse every day.
Sounds too easy to be true, that in just 10 minutes you could be paving the way to a rewarding relationship with your horse without even saddling up. Well, it's not. Just decide to teach your horse one part of one lesson until it is learned then move to the next step. For example: This week I will teach my horse where to put his head for bridling and haltering. Then, each time you pass your horse's stall, walk in pet him and place your right hand on his poll with slight downward pressure and your left hand on the bridge of his nose with slight pressure toward your chest. As soon as you see the ears lower and his head bend toward you, release and either ask again or leave the stall. Yes, it can be that simple.
Well, you say, I cannot touch my horse's poll. Then you will start your lessons even further back. You will run your hand to the point just before your horse pulls away and take your hand off there. Get the yes answer from your horse several times on both sides then take your hand a fraction of an inch closer. Spend a few minutes every time you pass your horse every day and you will see his trust grow. You are on your way to building a fine structure of communication with your horse instead of propping up a run down stick shed with more rotten sticks.
The point really is to make sure every interaction you have with your horse counts for something positive. You as a horse owner can take the time to teach your horse to be rude and unruly by doing nothing, or spend the same amount of time teaching the horse to be kind and well mannered. If you will take the energy and time you use to make excuses, show off battle scars, and tell war stories and spend it instead teaching your horse what is expected of it, you will find that five minutes twice a day can go a long, long way in creating a horse you can brag about instead of whine about.
Jodi Wilson is a recognized authority on the subject of horse training and has spent almost 30 years developing training techniques and solutions for horse owners no matter the discipline or breed.
Jodi is an Accredited Josh Lyons trainer, and is Certified in John Lyons training techniques. Her website, [http://Jodi-Wilson.com]http://Jodi-Wilson.com, provides a wealth of information to improve the relationship between horse and rider. Jodi is also available for clinics and demonstrations as well as lessons, apprenticeships, and horse training.
Jodi has trained and competed in Reining, Sorting, Jumping, Dressage, English and Western Pleasure, Trail and Problem Solving.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Teach-a-Horse-Manners-In-Less-Time&id=6652529] How To Teach a Horse Manners In Less Time
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