By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aria_Lopez_Torres]Aria Lopez Torres
Any horse enthusiast, especially the one who plans to take care of a horse must realize how important proper horse care is. It serves as a vital element in creating a bond between the owner and the horse. The quality of care, stabling and feeding significantly affect the performance of the horse.
Regular Grooming
A horse just like man needs to be always well-groomed in order to be appealing. Its main purpose is to get rid of dust, dirt and other material such as burs or dried sweat from the horse's coat. Not only that, it also aids to massage the skin and promote blood circulation. Overall, daily grooming of the horse will promote a healthy wellbeing and encourage the horse for a remarkable performance.
There are wild and domesticated horses that need a particular grooming care. Wild horses do this by rolling, scratching and licking each other. On the other hand, the owners of the domesticated horses have the responsibility to keep their horses suave.
The horses' grooming kit includes a hoof pick, a hard and soft brush, a curry comb, a comb and brush for the forelock and tail and of course, a squeegee after washing the horse. Safety must be a priority when grooming a horse. Its head must be tied first in a way that can be controlled but can be easily released in case of an emergency using a quick release stable knot or a panic clip.
In order to clean and wash the rel=nofollow [http://kwsaddlery.com.au]horse thoroughly, start by gently scrubbing the coat with a hard brush to eliminate any hard crusts of mud or dried sweat. This is favorable for fleshy areas of the horse excluding the face. After which, a soft brush must be used to clean the horse from head to toe following every grain of the hair. Take note to continually tap the brush clean in order to avoid bringing dirt from one area to another. To remove the last dirt residues, wipe the horse with a cloth or hose and dry off it with a squeegee. Do not forget to include other areas such as the nostrils, corners of the mouth as well as the underside of the tail and the anus. Use a different sponge for each ends of the horse to maintain good hygiene.
The Main and Tail
Horses are widely known for their silky and dazzling hair and it needs proper maintenance. It should be brushed on a daily basis to avoid tangles and prevent foreign matters to build up in the hair. With regards to the tail of the horse, one should be able to grip the tail higher than the area to avoid pulling put excessive hair. The tail can be washed with the appropriate shampoo. Moreover, the mane and forelock are combed flat with a damp brush to maintain its beauty.
Show some love to horses by giving them the proper [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/category/horse-care]horse-care they need.
Aria is a horse enthusiast who loves to spend her leisure time with horses.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Discover-the-Basic-Guide-to-Proper-Horse-Care&id=6557633] Discover the Basic Guide to Proper Horse Care
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Sunday, January 29, 2012
The History Of The Melbourne Cup
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Adam_Snyder]Adam Snyder
For those of you who love a good thoroughbred race, the Melbourne Cup is where you want to be in Australia. It was inaugurated back in 1861 and is classified as "The race that stops a nation". The Melbourne Cup is on one of the most prestigious 2 mile races in the world and has been the stomping ground for many of the best races in history.
This race is held in none other than Melbourne, Australia at the Flemington Racecourse which has been the only site of the race. What most people don't know about the Flemington Racecourse is that it used to be 3,218 meters but it was later adjusted to only 3,200 meters due in part of Australia adopting the metric system back in 1970.
Something else that a lot of people are not familiar with is what the qualification for this race is, it is 3 years and up with a minimum handicap weight or 49kg with no maximum handicap weight. This is something that some new thoroughbred race fans don't know and it is good to know so that you have an idea of what bets to place and why. The handicap system has always been around and until recently it didn't start giving less weight to the superior horses.
There has been a longstanding tradition at the Melbourne Cup and many people will come to Australia just to take part in it. This is the rate that many people compare to the United States race, The Kentucky Derby. If you are a race fan than this is one of the races that you will not want to miss and you shouldn't miss. The Melbourne Cup is held on the first Tuesday every November and it starts 10 minutes to 3P.M. Melbourne time.
With a winning purse of over $6 million it is no wonder why so many horse owners, trainers, and jockey's are fighting to get into the race. Being able to go to the Melbourne Cup is a huge accomplishment in any trainer's career so not only will you see the work of the jockey, you will also see the dedication that the trainer had and the determination of the owners. Trust me, seeing the Melbourne Cup in person is going to be a rush in its own right and that is why you need to attend it as soon as possible (preferably this year).
Knowing the history of the [http://www.cupinfo.com.au]Melbourne Cup is only half of the equation, you still have to see it in person.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-History-Of-The-Melbourne-Cup&id=6571325] The History Of The Melbourne Cup
For those of you who love a good thoroughbred race, the Melbourne Cup is where you want to be in Australia. It was inaugurated back in 1861 and is classified as "The race that stops a nation". The Melbourne Cup is on one of the most prestigious 2 mile races in the world and has been the stomping ground for many of the best races in history.
This race is held in none other than Melbourne, Australia at the Flemington Racecourse which has been the only site of the race. What most people don't know about the Flemington Racecourse is that it used to be 3,218 meters but it was later adjusted to only 3,200 meters due in part of Australia adopting the metric system back in 1970.
Something else that a lot of people are not familiar with is what the qualification for this race is, it is 3 years and up with a minimum handicap weight or 49kg with no maximum handicap weight. This is something that some new thoroughbred race fans don't know and it is good to know so that you have an idea of what bets to place and why. The handicap system has always been around and until recently it didn't start giving less weight to the superior horses.
There has been a longstanding tradition at the Melbourne Cup and many people will come to Australia just to take part in it. This is the rate that many people compare to the United States race, The Kentucky Derby. If you are a race fan than this is one of the races that you will not want to miss and you shouldn't miss. The Melbourne Cup is held on the first Tuesday every November and it starts 10 minutes to 3P.M. Melbourne time.
With a winning purse of over $6 million it is no wonder why so many horse owners, trainers, and jockey's are fighting to get into the race. Being able to go to the Melbourne Cup is a huge accomplishment in any trainer's career so not only will you see the work of the jockey, you will also see the dedication that the trainer had and the determination of the owners. Trust me, seeing the Melbourne Cup in person is going to be a rush in its own right and that is why you need to attend it as soon as possible (preferably this year).
Knowing the history of the [http://www.cupinfo.com.au]Melbourne Cup is only half of the equation, you still have to see it in person.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-History-Of-The-Melbourne-Cup&id=6571325] The History Of The Melbourne Cup
Friday, January 27, 2012
Tips On Coming To See The Melbourne Cup
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Adam_Snyder]Adam Snyder
Do you have any idea how many people are in attendance of the Melbourne Cup each year? An astonishing 100,000 plus people are at the track for the Melbourne Cup and you know that a lot of these people are from out of town or from around the world. This is exactly why you need some good tips on coming to see the race because without some great tips you will not be able to experience the race in the way that it is meant to be seen.
Tips When Coming To Melbourne
Book Your Hotel Early - The first tip that I have for you is to simply book your hotel early. With over 100,000 people in attendance there are bound to be some full hotels and if you don't have one then you will find it rather difficult to come to the city of Melbourne for the race. My recommendation would be to book your hotel at least 2 months in advance, if not sooner.
Get There A Few Days Early - Something else you need to do is make sure you are in Melbourne with a few days to space. The reason why you should do this is because there are a lot of things going on before the big race that you might want to take part in.
Go In A Group - What I highly recommend is that you don't go to the Melbourne Cup alone, it is more fun to go in a large group. The nice thing about going in a large group is that you can sometimes get group rates on things around the city and sometimes at the track.
Have Your Betting Money Handy - This is probably one of the most fun things to do while at the track, betting. If you want to bet you need to have your money ready because there will be so much betting going on that you will want to get in on the action. Trust me, if you are not betting on the race then you are not taking part in it as well as you should be.
The last thing that you need to know when coming to see the Melbourne Cup is to simply get to the track with enough time to place your bets and get to your seat. With everything that goes on before race time you will want to get there early enough that you do not miss a single thing.
There are a lot of activities and gatherings around the facility and if you want to experience everything that the [http://www.cupinfo.com.au]Melbourne Cup has to offer you need to get their on time.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Tips-On-Coming-To-See-The-Melbourne-Cup&id=6571328] Tips On Coming To See The Melbourne Cup
Do you have any idea how many people are in attendance of the Melbourne Cup each year? An astonishing 100,000 plus people are at the track for the Melbourne Cup and you know that a lot of these people are from out of town or from around the world. This is exactly why you need some good tips on coming to see the race because without some great tips you will not be able to experience the race in the way that it is meant to be seen.
Tips When Coming To Melbourne
Book Your Hotel Early - The first tip that I have for you is to simply book your hotel early. With over 100,000 people in attendance there are bound to be some full hotels and if you don't have one then you will find it rather difficult to come to the city of Melbourne for the race. My recommendation would be to book your hotel at least 2 months in advance, if not sooner.
Get There A Few Days Early - Something else you need to do is make sure you are in Melbourne with a few days to space. The reason why you should do this is because there are a lot of things going on before the big race that you might want to take part in.
Go In A Group - What I highly recommend is that you don't go to the Melbourne Cup alone, it is more fun to go in a large group. The nice thing about going in a large group is that you can sometimes get group rates on things around the city and sometimes at the track.
Have Your Betting Money Handy - This is probably one of the most fun things to do while at the track, betting. If you want to bet you need to have your money ready because there will be so much betting going on that you will want to get in on the action. Trust me, if you are not betting on the race then you are not taking part in it as well as you should be.
The last thing that you need to know when coming to see the Melbourne Cup is to simply get to the track with enough time to place your bets and get to your seat. With everything that goes on before race time you will want to get there early enough that you do not miss a single thing.
There are a lot of activities and gatherings around the facility and if you want to experience everything that the [http://www.cupinfo.com.au]Melbourne Cup has to offer you need to get their on time.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Tips-On-Coming-To-See-The-Melbourne-Cup&id=6571328] Tips On Coming To See The Melbourne Cup
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Teaching Young Horses To Go "FORWARD" Is Monumental For Success In The Breaking Process
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Beverly_Jansen]Beverly Jansen
Now that your youngster has learned to accept you on their back, doing figure eights at a walk and accepting the bit when asked to stop is a good beginning. This next step can be hard if you do not have a lead horse to help your baby understand that they not only need to go forward, but at a faster pace. Most young horses are not that willing to jog with you on their back. This is a new experience and a new feeling for them. Their whole life they have been able to run, jump, buck and play whenever THEY felt like it, not when someone asked or told them to. Usually you can get them to go a few strides but they will automatically go back down to a walk. Some of them will do this many, many, many times, because they do not want to do it or they are just not sure what it is that you are asking of them. This is where another horse in front of them comes in very handy. If your baby is in the shed row by themselves or in a paddock by themselves and you are trying to get them to jog and they are not liking it, as soon as they see another horse, especially if it is a friend of theirs, they usually are very happy to follow. Part of this is because their attention is on the other horse and not on you. So if their buddy jogs, well then, that's ok with me, I just want to be with another horse instead of being out in this paddock by myself. At this stage of the breaking process, try to travel the road to least resistance.
If you have a young horse that is being stubborn and just refuses to go forward, or even puts their head up in the air and tries to run off, then you may want to bring your lead horse next to your baby and see if that helps. Try to converse with the other person and stay very relaxed. If your youngster still is resistant, have the person on the other horse take a rope shank and snap it onto the babies' halter that is under the bridle. Take another five or ten minutes to try and help your baby to understand that you very much would like for them to move forward at a faster pace alongside the other horse. If they still are not giving you the results you want, just continue doing the best you can, staying calm, until the time is up and untack. The next day, make sure you have that same horse with your baby, snap the shank on again and repeat the same lesson. If you are not getting the results you should be getting, you may need to use another horse, which will be on the right side of the baby. Usually this is not necessary, I am just explaining in case you come upon this problem. If you feel it is necessary, you may need to use a riding crop, another name, a persuasion stick or whip. Personally, I have never used spurs on a young horse, I prefer a riding whip. This is not to be used to beat a horse up. It is to be used strategically at the right moment. If you are going to use a whip, make it count. When I was learning to break yearlings, you were allowed to use a stick, but if you just gave them a love tap, it was taken away. If you are going to use this valuable tool, you need to crack the horse on the rump, really mean it and leave it alone. If you are very stern they will get the message. Just be prepared at all times, when you are turning your stick on a youngster and are using it with conviction, be prepared for anything. Some babies will heed to your demands and that may be the one and only time that you will have to use this drastic measure. On the other hand, if you have a defiant baby that is in the attitude mode, you may be going for a rough ride. Some horses when you turn the stick on them will turn inside out because they have never had anything sting their butt like that before. The best case scenario is to have someone at their head, preferably on another horse or someone at their head on the ground.
Now your youngster has the idea that you really want them to go forward at a jog and keep going at a jog. Forward, forward, forward. You as the rider must keep this on your mind constantly when you are on your young horses back. As you are thinking forward, all of your body language will convey this to your horse and they will pick up on it and have a better understanding of what it is you are asking for. Once they have accepted the forward concept, half of the battle has been won. Now, take what you have taught them, work on the jogging until they are very good at responding to your commands. I cannot tell you exactly how many days or weeks but make sure they are good at jogging and paying attention to you on their back before you move on to the next step. Remember; keep it short, sweet and to the point. As the days progress, and your horse is becoming a little fit to the task and really is not minding it at all then you can move up to cantering or loping depending on your discipline. Always end on a positive note with your horse and lots of praise. They do not know the words that you are saying but they certainly understand the tone and excitement in your voice and the kindness in your heart. Again, I will be back shortly with more tips on making the breaking process an easy one.
Beverly Jansen http://bevshorseadvice.com
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC
I'm a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and now offer an exceptional, all natural horse product, Bev's Equine Magic Salve, that is above and beyond any other products in comparison and guarantees fantastic results. This salve can also be used on canine, feline, and livestock. Stay tuned as new products to follow!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Teaching-Young-Horses-To-Go-FORWARD-Is-Monumental-For-Success-In-The-Breaking-Process&id=6575971] Teaching Young Horses To Go "FORWARD" Is Monumental For Success In The Breaking Process
Now that your youngster has learned to accept you on their back, doing figure eights at a walk and accepting the bit when asked to stop is a good beginning. This next step can be hard if you do not have a lead horse to help your baby understand that they not only need to go forward, but at a faster pace. Most young horses are not that willing to jog with you on their back. This is a new experience and a new feeling for them. Their whole life they have been able to run, jump, buck and play whenever THEY felt like it, not when someone asked or told them to. Usually you can get them to go a few strides but they will automatically go back down to a walk. Some of them will do this many, many, many times, because they do not want to do it or they are just not sure what it is that you are asking of them. This is where another horse in front of them comes in very handy. If your baby is in the shed row by themselves or in a paddock by themselves and you are trying to get them to jog and they are not liking it, as soon as they see another horse, especially if it is a friend of theirs, they usually are very happy to follow. Part of this is because their attention is on the other horse and not on you. So if their buddy jogs, well then, that's ok with me, I just want to be with another horse instead of being out in this paddock by myself. At this stage of the breaking process, try to travel the road to least resistance.
If you have a young horse that is being stubborn and just refuses to go forward, or even puts their head up in the air and tries to run off, then you may want to bring your lead horse next to your baby and see if that helps. Try to converse with the other person and stay very relaxed. If your youngster still is resistant, have the person on the other horse take a rope shank and snap it onto the babies' halter that is under the bridle. Take another five or ten minutes to try and help your baby to understand that you very much would like for them to move forward at a faster pace alongside the other horse. If they still are not giving you the results you want, just continue doing the best you can, staying calm, until the time is up and untack. The next day, make sure you have that same horse with your baby, snap the shank on again and repeat the same lesson. If you are not getting the results you should be getting, you may need to use another horse, which will be on the right side of the baby. Usually this is not necessary, I am just explaining in case you come upon this problem. If you feel it is necessary, you may need to use a riding crop, another name, a persuasion stick or whip. Personally, I have never used spurs on a young horse, I prefer a riding whip. This is not to be used to beat a horse up. It is to be used strategically at the right moment. If you are going to use a whip, make it count. When I was learning to break yearlings, you were allowed to use a stick, but if you just gave them a love tap, it was taken away. If you are going to use this valuable tool, you need to crack the horse on the rump, really mean it and leave it alone. If you are very stern they will get the message. Just be prepared at all times, when you are turning your stick on a youngster and are using it with conviction, be prepared for anything. Some babies will heed to your demands and that may be the one and only time that you will have to use this drastic measure. On the other hand, if you have a defiant baby that is in the attitude mode, you may be going for a rough ride. Some horses when you turn the stick on them will turn inside out because they have never had anything sting their butt like that before. The best case scenario is to have someone at their head, preferably on another horse or someone at their head on the ground.
Now your youngster has the idea that you really want them to go forward at a jog and keep going at a jog. Forward, forward, forward. You as the rider must keep this on your mind constantly when you are on your young horses back. As you are thinking forward, all of your body language will convey this to your horse and they will pick up on it and have a better understanding of what it is you are asking for. Once they have accepted the forward concept, half of the battle has been won. Now, take what you have taught them, work on the jogging until they are very good at responding to your commands. I cannot tell you exactly how many days or weeks but make sure they are good at jogging and paying attention to you on their back before you move on to the next step. Remember; keep it short, sweet and to the point. As the days progress, and your horse is becoming a little fit to the task and really is not minding it at all then you can move up to cantering or loping depending on your discipline. Always end on a positive note with your horse and lots of praise. They do not know the words that you are saying but they certainly understand the tone and excitement in your voice and the kindness in your heart. Again, I will be back shortly with more tips on making the breaking process an easy one.
Beverly Jansen http://bevshorseadvice.com
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC
I'm a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and now offer an exceptional, all natural horse product, Bev's Equine Magic Salve, that is above and beyond any other products in comparison and guarantees fantastic results. This salve can also be used on canine, feline, and livestock. Stay tuned as new products to follow!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Teaching-Young-Horses-To-Go-FORWARD-Is-Monumental-For-Success-In-The-Breaking-Process&id=6575971] Teaching Young Horses To Go "FORWARD" Is Monumental For Success In The Breaking Process
Monday, January 23, 2012
How to Successfully Get Through the Winter With Your Horses Routine
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_H_Cooper]John H Cooper
Going into the winter with your horses can be a daunting process. You know you're going to have limited day light and either you're going to have to do everything by touch light or get someone to help you do your horses which often means you then won't see them in the day light yourself for most of the week. Everyone pony owner hates the winter but it's one of the problems with living in England. My article is going to help you and advice you on how to successfully go through the winter without huge problems. If you prepare right you're going to get through as well as you possible can. I hope you find this article informative and useful.
Firstly don't forget that it's already getting dark out there by 7.30 so make sure you have your evening routine down to a 'T'. This may mean getting some of your things ready in the morning or preparing in bulk at the weekend. Bucket feeds can be made up in advance and stored. This means you only need to grab it to do them in the evening. Hay can be stored in a spare paddock near where they are grazing so you don't need to carry it from the yard. If you don't have the time to bring them onto the yard to sort rugs out and do not want to drag them back and from the yard you may wish to invent in a little locker which you can store at the entrance to your field and pop unused rugs in their.
Make sure you check your tack such as stirrups and leathers at the start of the winter. Stirrups and leathers will very quickly get damp once the cold weather comes and any items which are a little old will soon break so replace anything early on so you don't need to do it when it's dark. There is nothing worth than spending valuable riding time visiting the saddlery to pick up new items to ride in.
Don't forget to consider that something's may need to be bigger due to extra layers if you're cold. You may ride in bigger boots to prevent your feet from getting cold so stirrup iron sizes may need to be larger than you planned.
If you haven't got lights near where your horses are it may be worth investing in some so that you can see what you're doing. They are dangerous animals and looking after them in the dark isn't safe.
Don't forget to check your [http://www.britishsaddlery.co.uk/stirrups]stirrup iron sizes and [http://www.britishsaddlery.co.uk/stirrups]sitrrups and leathers this winter
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Successfully-Get-Through-the-Winter-With-Your-Horses-Routine&id=6578286] How to Successfully Get Through the Winter With Your Horses Routine
Going into the winter with your horses can be a daunting process. You know you're going to have limited day light and either you're going to have to do everything by touch light or get someone to help you do your horses which often means you then won't see them in the day light yourself for most of the week. Everyone pony owner hates the winter but it's one of the problems with living in England. My article is going to help you and advice you on how to successfully go through the winter without huge problems. If you prepare right you're going to get through as well as you possible can. I hope you find this article informative and useful.
Firstly don't forget that it's already getting dark out there by 7.30 so make sure you have your evening routine down to a 'T'. This may mean getting some of your things ready in the morning or preparing in bulk at the weekend. Bucket feeds can be made up in advance and stored. This means you only need to grab it to do them in the evening. Hay can be stored in a spare paddock near where they are grazing so you don't need to carry it from the yard. If you don't have the time to bring them onto the yard to sort rugs out and do not want to drag them back and from the yard you may wish to invent in a little locker which you can store at the entrance to your field and pop unused rugs in their.
Make sure you check your tack such as stirrups and leathers at the start of the winter. Stirrups and leathers will very quickly get damp once the cold weather comes and any items which are a little old will soon break so replace anything early on so you don't need to do it when it's dark. There is nothing worth than spending valuable riding time visiting the saddlery to pick up new items to ride in.
Don't forget to consider that something's may need to be bigger due to extra layers if you're cold. You may ride in bigger boots to prevent your feet from getting cold so stirrup iron sizes may need to be larger than you planned.
If you haven't got lights near where your horses are it may be worth investing in some so that you can see what you're doing. They are dangerous animals and looking after them in the dark isn't safe.
Don't forget to check your [http://www.britishsaddlery.co.uk/stirrups]stirrup iron sizes and [http://www.britishsaddlery.co.uk/stirrups]sitrrups and leathers this winter
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Successfully-Get-Through-the-Winter-With-Your-Horses-Routine&id=6578286] How to Successfully Get Through the Winter With Your Horses Routine
Saturday, January 21, 2012
How Do Equine Rugs Provide Ease to Horses?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aria_Lopez_Torres]Aria Lopez Torres
Equines are fantastic animals that require lots of attentiveness along with due care to become tamed and thrive while in the environment they reside in. Similar to humans, they've got varied necessities that needs to be satisfied to remain in a healthy condition as well as function up to their finest capability. In addition to good hygiene, food as well as shelter, equines likewise need the kind of peace which comes from equine rugs. This item is certainly not just a mere covering used on the equine's back. It is produced out of an assortment of fabric that is usually meant to at all times keep the horse cozy and protected from diverse external weather and also from unsafe insects.
The Best Choice Equine Rugs
While there is a diversified weather condition which can vary from one location to another, it is important to give some thought to this in choosing which rug will be ideal for your horse. A breathable blanket will definitely be most convenient for the duration of summer months. A number of these summer blankets aren't waterproof and are mostly produced to keep the equine unsoiled as much as possible when it rolls or lies down. Another one useful horse covering is a fly rug or precisely what is normally called fly sheets. As created from its name, fly rugs are utilized to guard the horse from flies and other insects that bite or sting.
Whenever the horse is resting inside stable, there are stable rugs which can be used to provide warming insulation to the equine. Stable rugs can be purchased from lightweight, medium weight and heavyweight material depending on the amount of filling they contain. They are being worn in accordance with the temperature of the region wherein the warmer the season, the lighter the stable rug that ought to be needed.
Equines should have some valuable time in the open air and they must stay protected against the cold. Throughout winter or cold season, turnout rugs are preferably in use. rel=nofollow [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/equine-rugs]Turn-out-rugs are produced from lightweight to heavy materials to produce the recommended warmth to horses once they are being taken outdoors and even exposed to the freezing environment. How much warmth present in the turn out rug can be discovered depending on its weight rather than just thickness. This kind of rug is produced intentionally to withstand the cruel weather conditions.
Looking for the Type of Equine Rug
It is obligatory to keep the extraordinary coat of the horse to preserve its loveliness. Intense warmth of a rug definitely will result in horse shredding its coat and more often than not it can prevent the growth of the coat too. Apart from the climate or seasonal conditions, there are many points that must be thought-about to supply the specific warmth that the equine needs to have. Younger and healthy horse might require lesser warmth from equine rugs when compared to older and sickly equine. The ones with thicker coat will certainly have much less necessity for a rug as opposed to those with a finer coat, or have been clipped.
Check out the latest [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/equine-rugs]equine-rugs products now!
Aria is a horse lover who wants to spend her leisure time horse riding. Being near to horses has a soothing effect to her stressful day.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-Do-Equine-Rugs-Provide-Ease-to-Horses?&id=6577851] How Do Equine Rugs Provide Ease to Horses?
Equines are fantastic animals that require lots of attentiveness along with due care to become tamed and thrive while in the environment they reside in. Similar to humans, they've got varied necessities that needs to be satisfied to remain in a healthy condition as well as function up to their finest capability. In addition to good hygiene, food as well as shelter, equines likewise need the kind of peace which comes from equine rugs. This item is certainly not just a mere covering used on the equine's back. It is produced out of an assortment of fabric that is usually meant to at all times keep the horse cozy and protected from diverse external weather and also from unsafe insects.
The Best Choice Equine Rugs
While there is a diversified weather condition which can vary from one location to another, it is important to give some thought to this in choosing which rug will be ideal for your horse. A breathable blanket will definitely be most convenient for the duration of summer months. A number of these summer blankets aren't waterproof and are mostly produced to keep the equine unsoiled as much as possible when it rolls or lies down. Another one useful horse covering is a fly rug or precisely what is normally called fly sheets. As created from its name, fly rugs are utilized to guard the horse from flies and other insects that bite or sting.
Whenever the horse is resting inside stable, there are stable rugs which can be used to provide warming insulation to the equine. Stable rugs can be purchased from lightweight, medium weight and heavyweight material depending on the amount of filling they contain. They are being worn in accordance with the temperature of the region wherein the warmer the season, the lighter the stable rug that ought to be needed.
Equines should have some valuable time in the open air and they must stay protected against the cold. Throughout winter or cold season, turnout rugs are preferably in use. rel=nofollow [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/equine-rugs]Turn-out-rugs are produced from lightweight to heavy materials to produce the recommended warmth to horses once they are being taken outdoors and even exposed to the freezing environment. How much warmth present in the turn out rug can be discovered depending on its weight rather than just thickness. This kind of rug is produced intentionally to withstand the cruel weather conditions.
Looking for the Type of Equine Rug
It is obligatory to keep the extraordinary coat of the horse to preserve its loveliness. Intense warmth of a rug definitely will result in horse shredding its coat and more often than not it can prevent the growth of the coat too. Apart from the climate or seasonal conditions, there are many points that must be thought-about to supply the specific warmth that the equine needs to have. Younger and healthy horse might require lesser warmth from equine rugs when compared to older and sickly equine. The ones with thicker coat will certainly have much less necessity for a rug as opposed to those with a finer coat, or have been clipped.
Check out the latest [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/equine-rugs]equine-rugs products now!
Aria is a horse lover who wants to spend her leisure time horse riding. Being near to horses has a soothing effect to her stressful day.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-Do-Equine-Rugs-Provide-Ease-to-Horses?&id=6577851] How Do Equine Rugs Provide Ease to Horses?
Thursday, January 19, 2012
How to Bathe a Horse
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Donna_J_Diehl]Donna J Diehl
When bathing your horse start with the body. Using a shower setting or a mist setting, wet one section of the horse. Put shampoo on the area that you have already made wet. With a sponge or a rubber curry rub the area to get the dirt out. Rinse the area thoroughly. One section at a time, continue to do the rest of the horse's body. With your hand or with a sweat scraper remove the excess water left on the horse.
After washing the horse's coat you can then do the head. Depending on the horse's experience with bathing, there are several ways to wash the head. You can use the hose on the face if the horse is experienced with bathing. Use a light mist spray to wet it or use a sponge and release water down his face. You can take a wet towel with a small amount of shampoo on it followed by another clean wet towel to remove the dirt and shampoo for the less experienced horse. Take care that you do not get water in the horse's ears. Do not use shampoo near the nostrils, eyes, or mouth, just use a wet cloth.
To do the mane you may have to use a stool. Wet the mane thoroughly. To remind the horse to keep his head down you may have to put a hand on the bride of the nose. Put shampoo down the crest line of the mane but not too much. Rub vigorously to work up a lather. Make sure you scrub it thoroughly as dirt will most likely be hiding at the roots of the mane. Rinse all of the shampoo out of the mane and then rinse some more.
Make sure all of the tangles are out of the tail before washing. You can run your fingers through the tail to do this. If you wet the tail down with the tangles left in, it will be harder to get them out and the horse may lose some of his tail hair in the process. There are some good detangling products around that are good for taking tangles out. After wetting the tail down add the shampoo. With your fingers scrub the tail vigorously. Wash the underside of the dock. To see if you have removed all of the dirt, separate the tail hairs. Make sure that you get all the shampoo out of the tail. If you do not get all of the shampoo out of the tail the horse will rub the tail and lose tail hair this way. Always condition the tail after washing. Most of the water can be removed from the tail by squeezing it with a dry towel.
With a sponge or rubber mitt you can wash the horse's legs. He will know not to pick his leg up if you put your hand on his knee. Rinse thoroughly. You will want to remove the chestnuts and ergots.
You might want to condition his coat if your horse has dry skin or you are using a medicated shampoo. After diluting the conditioner pour it on his coat and work it in using your hands. Let it stand for a few minutes. Remove the excess with a sweat scraper if it is leave in conditioner. If it is rinse out conditioner, rinse it out with the hose and use the sweat scraper to remove the excess water. You should then condition the mane.
The tail and mane can be brushed out when they are almost dry. This is best done using a regular hair brush with wide bristles. Do not comb the tail and mane until after they have been brushed.
Bathing your horse is part of keeping your horse looking his best and keeping his coat in good condition. For more information on grooming your horse take a quick look at thebestofhorses.com.
TIP: Dilute the shampoo with water when washing your horse. Make it about eight parts water and one part shampoo. The diluted shampoo is much easier to rinse out than shampoo straight from the bottle.
If you would like to learn more about the care of horses or about horse equipment take a quick look at http://www.thebestofhorses.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Bathe-a-Horse&id=6561840] How to Bathe a Horse
When bathing your horse start with the body. Using a shower setting or a mist setting, wet one section of the horse. Put shampoo on the area that you have already made wet. With a sponge or a rubber curry rub the area to get the dirt out. Rinse the area thoroughly. One section at a time, continue to do the rest of the horse's body. With your hand or with a sweat scraper remove the excess water left on the horse.
After washing the horse's coat you can then do the head. Depending on the horse's experience with bathing, there are several ways to wash the head. You can use the hose on the face if the horse is experienced with bathing. Use a light mist spray to wet it or use a sponge and release water down his face. You can take a wet towel with a small amount of shampoo on it followed by another clean wet towel to remove the dirt and shampoo for the less experienced horse. Take care that you do not get water in the horse's ears. Do not use shampoo near the nostrils, eyes, or mouth, just use a wet cloth.
To do the mane you may have to use a stool. Wet the mane thoroughly. To remind the horse to keep his head down you may have to put a hand on the bride of the nose. Put shampoo down the crest line of the mane but not too much. Rub vigorously to work up a lather. Make sure you scrub it thoroughly as dirt will most likely be hiding at the roots of the mane. Rinse all of the shampoo out of the mane and then rinse some more.
Make sure all of the tangles are out of the tail before washing. You can run your fingers through the tail to do this. If you wet the tail down with the tangles left in, it will be harder to get them out and the horse may lose some of his tail hair in the process. There are some good detangling products around that are good for taking tangles out. After wetting the tail down add the shampoo. With your fingers scrub the tail vigorously. Wash the underside of the dock. To see if you have removed all of the dirt, separate the tail hairs. Make sure that you get all the shampoo out of the tail. If you do not get all of the shampoo out of the tail the horse will rub the tail and lose tail hair this way. Always condition the tail after washing. Most of the water can be removed from the tail by squeezing it with a dry towel.
With a sponge or rubber mitt you can wash the horse's legs. He will know not to pick his leg up if you put your hand on his knee. Rinse thoroughly. You will want to remove the chestnuts and ergots.
You might want to condition his coat if your horse has dry skin or you are using a medicated shampoo. After diluting the conditioner pour it on his coat and work it in using your hands. Let it stand for a few minutes. Remove the excess with a sweat scraper if it is leave in conditioner. If it is rinse out conditioner, rinse it out with the hose and use the sweat scraper to remove the excess water. You should then condition the mane.
The tail and mane can be brushed out when they are almost dry. This is best done using a regular hair brush with wide bristles. Do not comb the tail and mane until after they have been brushed.
Bathing your horse is part of keeping your horse looking his best and keeping his coat in good condition. For more information on grooming your horse take a quick look at thebestofhorses.com.
TIP: Dilute the shampoo with water when washing your horse. Make it about eight parts water and one part shampoo. The diluted shampoo is much easier to rinse out than shampoo straight from the bottle.
If you would like to learn more about the care of horses or about horse equipment take a quick look at http://www.thebestofhorses.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Bathe-a-Horse&id=6561840] How to Bathe a Horse
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Horse Grooming and Equipment
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Donna_J_Diehl]Donna J Diehl
Grooming Your Horse
Your horse needs to look his best whenever you put him to work. The first thing anyone notices is the appearance of your horse. Your horse should look his best whether you are showing or just going on a ride down the street. Grooming massages the muscles and skin and also improves the circulation. A well groomed horse looks much healthier than an ungroomed horse.
To get the dandruff and deep dirt out use a curry comb to rough up the hair. The curry comb will also remove dried mud. To get the job done sufficient pressure should be used. Rubber curry combs are the most common but they come in many styles. There are round and square, rubber and metal. Which you like best depends on your preference. They all do a good job. When grooming your horse be sure you follow the lay of the coat.
The dandy brush or rice straw brushes are stiff harsh brushes. They will lift the dirt out and penetrate the hair if used in a rocking motion. You should not use this brush on the tender parts of the horse. Many owners use these brushes only and not a curry comb.
Use the body brush to clean and massage the skin after removing the mud. The body brush is much softer and is a finishing brush. They tend to add gloss to the coat by bringing oil into the hair. Use short circular strokes following the lay of the coat. Brush all parts of the body starting at the neck and working toward the tail. So that you do not get kicked when brushing the sensitive parts such as the inside of the leg stand to the side and close to the horse. Finish one side of the horse and then do the other side.
Brush the face after you are finished brushing the body. Use the soft brush only on the face. The curry comb and dandy brush are too harsh for the face. Use a damp sponge to clean the eyelids starting at the outside corner and sponging inward. Sponge around the lips and then sponge the nostrils. With a different sponge gently clean the whole area under the tail.
To remove the last particles of dirt and further enhance the shine use a rubbing cloth. You can slightly dampen the rubbing cloth and then wipe all over the body.
Run your fingers through the tail to help untangle it. Use a hair brush with soft ends or a body brush to brush out the tail. Start at the bottom of the tail and gradually work upward until the entire tail is finished. After removing the tangles you should then brush the mane.
Using a hoof pick clean your horse's feet making sure you remove all the dirt and mud. Apply oil to the hoof covering the entire hoof. Oil the sole also as this helps prevent mud and bedding from getting packed into the hoof.
After grooming your horse he will be ready for any activity that you have planned. For more information on horse's and their care take a quick look at rel=nofollow http://www.thebestofhorses.com.
If you would like to learn more about horse equipment or caring for horses take a quick look at http://www.thebestofhorses.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horse-Grooming-and-Equipment&id=6579358] Horse Grooming and Equipment
Grooming Your Horse
Your horse needs to look his best whenever you put him to work. The first thing anyone notices is the appearance of your horse. Your horse should look his best whether you are showing or just going on a ride down the street. Grooming massages the muscles and skin and also improves the circulation. A well groomed horse looks much healthier than an ungroomed horse.
To get the dandruff and deep dirt out use a curry comb to rough up the hair. The curry comb will also remove dried mud. To get the job done sufficient pressure should be used. Rubber curry combs are the most common but they come in many styles. There are round and square, rubber and metal. Which you like best depends on your preference. They all do a good job. When grooming your horse be sure you follow the lay of the coat.
The dandy brush or rice straw brushes are stiff harsh brushes. They will lift the dirt out and penetrate the hair if used in a rocking motion. You should not use this brush on the tender parts of the horse. Many owners use these brushes only and not a curry comb.
Use the body brush to clean and massage the skin after removing the mud. The body brush is much softer and is a finishing brush. They tend to add gloss to the coat by bringing oil into the hair. Use short circular strokes following the lay of the coat. Brush all parts of the body starting at the neck and working toward the tail. So that you do not get kicked when brushing the sensitive parts such as the inside of the leg stand to the side and close to the horse. Finish one side of the horse and then do the other side.
Brush the face after you are finished brushing the body. Use the soft brush only on the face. The curry comb and dandy brush are too harsh for the face. Use a damp sponge to clean the eyelids starting at the outside corner and sponging inward. Sponge around the lips and then sponge the nostrils. With a different sponge gently clean the whole area under the tail.
To remove the last particles of dirt and further enhance the shine use a rubbing cloth. You can slightly dampen the rubbing cloth and then wipe all over the body.
Run your fingers through the tail to help untangle it. Use a hair brush with soft ends or a body brush to brush out the tail. Start at the bottom of the tail and gradually work upward until the entire tail is finished. After removing the tangles you should then brush the mane.
Using a hoof pick clean your horse's feet making sure you remove all the dirt and mud. Apply oil to the hoof covering the entire hoof. Oil the sole also as this helps prevent mud and bedding from getting packed into the hoof.
After grooming your horse he will be ready for any activity that you have planned. For more information on horse's and their care take a quick look at rel=nofollow http://www.thebestofhorses.com.
If you would like to learn more about horse equipment or caring for horses take a quick look at http://www.thebestofhorses.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horse-Grooming-and-Equipment&id=6579358] Horse Grooming and Equipment
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Quarter Horse Blood Lines
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Joy_D_Cox]Joy D Cox
Back in the "old" days of the mid 1700's this special breed was labeled a "Quarter-of-a-mile-Runner, therefore the name Quarter Horse. The A. Q. H. A. was organized some 60 years ago to perpetuate this strain of horses that were so superior in speed, athletic ability and type.
The English Thoroughbred Race Horses were the fore-runners of these and when crossed with native American Colonial Horses, sprinters were known as Quarter Horses and distance horses who ran from a mile or more became known as Thoroughbreds.
Short races were most popular since Colonial days and the pedigrees of many of these horses have been preserved thru the years, even before these "Quarter Horses" became a "breed". This was used for racing and also developed the highest class of ranch horses. These tough, athletic horses held up well for the need of Ranchers who demanded a horse with cow sense, speed, endurance and a trainable disposition.
The Grandson of The Godolphin Arabian named "Janus" was the ideal type. He was a little over 14 hands, very strong boned, compact, with a short back with strong muscles. He was imported from England in 1752 and became the first Stallion to popularize the Quarter Horse type and he was a very successful sire who passed on his speed with great consistency. His influence carried on for many generations and most Horses of the A. Q. H. A. breed can be traced to this dominant early sire. It is probably a sure bet that Quarter Horse aficionados and breeders are not aware of the fact that most quarter Horses trace back to the Arabian Breed. Many of the early breeders infused the best thoroughbred blood they could get as the basis for their herds. It is a well known fact that all Thoroughbreds trace back to three Arabian Stallions, The Godolphin Arabian, The Byerley Turk, and The Darley Arabian. Broodmares also had heavy concentrations of this blood which was successfully infused into the first "Bulldog" type of conformation.
When the American Quarter Horse Association was in its formative stages, many thought that the "Bulldog" type was ideal. The association developed rules that encouraged the development of the "Bulldog" type. Ancestry demonstrates a surprising amount of Thoroughbred blood infused into the Quarter Horse.
60 years of hind-sight demonstrates that these early breeders knew exactly how to get the best. Select Thoroughbred out-crosses thru periodic infusions thru the blood of Janus, Sir Arehy, Peter McCue, Traveler, and Three Bars have given us the Quarter Horse that is the versatile athlete of today.
Joy Cox http://www.onlineanimalinfo.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Quarter-Horse-Blood-Lines&id=6581954] Quarter Horse Blood Lines
Back in the "old" days of the mid 1700's this special breed was labeled a "Quarter-of-a-mile-Runner, therefore the name Quarter Horse. The A. Q. H. A. was organized some 60 years ago to perpetuate this strain of horses that were so superior in speed, athletic ability and type.
The English Thoroughbred Race Horses were the fore-runners of these and when crossed with native American Colonial Horses, sprinters were known as Quarter Horses and distance horses who ran from a mile or more became known as Thoroughbreds.
Short races were most popular since Colonial days and the pedigrees of many of these horses have been preserved thru the years, even before these "Quarter Horses" became a "breed". This was used for racing and also developed the highest class of ranch horses. These tough, athletic horses held up well for the need of Ranchers who demanded a horse with cow sense, speed, endurance and a trainable disposition.
The Grandson of The Godolphin Arabian named "Janus" was the ideal type. He was a little over 14 hands, very strong boned, compact, with a short back with strong muscles. He was imported from England in 1752 and became the first Stallion to popularize the Quarter Horse type and he was a very successful sire who passed on his speed with great consistency. His influence carried on for many generations and most Horses of the A. Q. H. A. breed can be traced to this dominant early sire. It is probably a sure bet that Quarter Horse aficionados and breeders are not aware of the fact that most quarter Horses trace back to the Arabian Breed. Many of the early breeders infused the best thoroughbred blood they could get as the basis for their herds. It is a well known fact that all Thoroughbreds trace back to three Arabian Stallions, The Godolphin Arabian, The Byerley Turk, and The Darley Arabian. Broodmares also had heavy concentrations of this blood which was successfully infused into the first "Bulldog" type of conformation.
When the American Quarter Horse Association was in its formative stages, many thought that the "Bulldog" type was ideal. The association developed rules that encouraged the development of the "Bulldog" type. Ancestry demonstrates a surprising amount of Thoroughbred blood infused into the Quarter Horse.
60 years of hind-sight demonstrates that these early breeders knew exactly how to get the best. Select Thoroughbred out-crosses thru periodic infusions thru the blood of Janus, Sir Arehy, Peter McCue, Traveler, and Three Bars have given us the Quarter Horse that is the versatile athlete of today.
Joy Cox http://www.onlineanimalinfo.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Quarter-Horse-Blood-Lines&id=6581954] Quarter Horse Blood Lines
Friday, January 13, 2012
Support Your Horse Supplements By Understanding First Aid
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_J_Phelps]Jennifer J Phelps
There are 2 common forms of first aid. On very minor injuries, first aid addresses the issue and no additional medical attention is required. The other kind is a stop-gap measure supplying immediate care until more skilled medical help will come. Every horse owner must come up with a first-aid kit and put it within the stable.
Keep your kit in the same location constantly so you always know where it is. It should be visibly branded. If another person has to find it during instances of emergency, that person should be able to do this swiftly. Plastic or steel toolboxes work nicely as first-aid kits. You can also buy a first-aid kit designed for horses. Listed here are first-aid supplies that are important to a well-stocked First Aid Kit. These items must be held in all Medical Kits.
First is a Stethoscope. You can examine and measure heart beat and stomach sound any time your horse is well to make a comparison when the horse is sick. Standard rate for a mature horse is about thirty to forty beats a minute and substantially higher for any nursing Mare. A foal is approximately sixty to eighty beats per minute. You will need Iodine Solution which is diluted. Any fresh injuries should be flushed out with this solution. Only use Peroxide to flush serious wounds or holes. Use saline to purge wounds after making use of anti bacterial washes and just before wrapping the wound.
Use Sterile Gauze Sponges when cleaning the injured area with a Diluted Iodine Solution. The Self-Adhesive Tape props up Gauze to the wound. The tape is readily utilized and eradicated. Get in the habit of checking your first-aid kit frequently. Take stock of every item to make sure that you have everything you need. Check out the expiration dates of the medications, and replace any that are out of date. Open wounds which will not get medical assistance for several hours or more must be flushed out with clean water, wrapped with a bandage and should be applied with an antibacterial cream. A garden hose with the nozzle fixed on a firm spray is ideal for flushing.
Horse Supplements will help your horse become more resistant to bacterial infections. If a wound is to be stitched, flushing and bandaging may help minimize infection until the wound may be sutured. Avoid applying medications to the wound, since they may interfere with healing. If medical help is over two hours away consult the opinion of the veterinarian about what you might dress the wound with. Seek veterinarian advice when the wound is large or if you are not comfortable in treating the injured horse yourself. [http://www.royalchampion.com]Horse supplements specialists have various advice and expert opinions on how you take good care of your beloved equines using the supreme [http://royalchampion.com/horse-vitamin-supplement.aspx]horse Vitamins in their day-to-day diet regime.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Support-Your-Horse-Supplements-By-Understanding-First-Aid&id=6421209] Support Your Horse Supplements By Understanding First Aid
There are 2 common forms of first aid. On very minor injuries, first aid addresses the issue and no additional medical attention is required. The other kind is a stop-gap measure supplying immediate care until more skilled medical help will come. Every horse owner must come up with a first-aid kit and put it within the stable.
Keep your kit in the same location constantly so you always know where it is. It should be visibly branded. If another person has to find it during instances of emergency, that person should be able to do this swiftly. Plastic or steel toolboxes work nicely as first-aid kits. You can also buy a first-aid kit designed for horses. Listed here are first-aid supplies that are important to a well-stocked First Aid Kit. These items must be held in all Medical Kits.
First is a Stethoscope. You can examine and measure heart beat and stomach sound any time your horse is well to make a comparison when the horse is sick. Standard rate for a mature horse is about thirty to forty beats a minute and substantially higher for any nursing Mare. A foal is approximately sixty to eighty beats per minute. You will need Iodine Solution which is diluted. Any fresh injuries should be flushed out with this solution. Only use Peroxide to flush serious wounds or holes. Use saline to purge wounds after making use of anti bacterial washes and just before wrapping the wound.
Use Sterile Gauze Sponges when cleaning the injured area with a Diluted Iodine Solution. The Self-Adhesive Tape props up Gauze to the wound. The tape is readily utilized and eradicated. Get in the habit of checking your first-aid kit frequently. Take stock of every item to make sure that you have everything you need. Check out the expiration dates of the medications, and replace any that are out of date. Open wounds which will not get medical assistance for several hours or more must be flushed out with clean water, wrapped with a bandage and should be applied with an antibacterial cream. A garden hose with the nozzle fixed on a firm spray is ideal for flushing.
Horse Supplements will help your horse become more resistant to bacterial infections. If a wound is to be stitched, flushing and bandaging may help minimize infection until the wound may be sutured. Avoid applying medications to the wound, since they may interfere with healing. If medical help is over two hours away consult the opinion of the veterinarian about what you might dress the wound with. Seek veterinarian advice when the wound is large or if you are not comfortable in treating the injured horse yourself. [http://www.royalchampion.com]Horse supplements specialists have various advice and expert opinions on how you take good care of your beloved equines using the supreme [http://royalchampion.com/horse-vitamin-supplement.aspx]horse Vitamins in their day-to-day diet regime.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Support-Your-Horse-Supplements-By-Understanding-First-Aid&id=6421209] Support Your Horse Supplements By Understanding First Aid
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Importance of Vitamins in Supplements
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Audra_Jensen]Audra Jensen
A wise man should consider that health is the greatest of human blessings." -Hippocrates
Research has shown that each part of the body contains high concentrations of certain nutrients, A deficiency of those nutrients will cause the body part to malfunction and eventually break down - like dominos, other body parts will follow. If we do not give ourselves or our horses the proper nutrients, we can impair the body's normal functions and cause great harm. Even if there are no signs of illness it doesn't necessarily mean they are healthy, it simply may be that they are not exhibiting symptoms of illness. Often the owners don't see the signs of deterioration as they are so subtle and develop so gradually that they go unnoticed until the problem becomes serious then they want a "quick fix" which may fix the symptoms however not the problem.
Many horses owners feed foods that are processed and/or cooked ( most senior feeds) which destroys most of the nutritional value. The use of pesticides and other toxins in the environment compromises the horses health along with the over use of antibiotics, both oral and injectable, the use of corticosteroids, vaccinations wormers and just the air we breath (smog and exhaust fumes). Much of the forages are stored outside in the elements and even if stored covered over a period of time the nutritional value is decreased. Good nutrition is the foundation of good health. There are books and much extensive information available, this is just a basic overview of what we have in our supplement and how it will help your four legged friends. Everyone needs the four basic nutrients - water, carbohydrates, protein and fats - as well as vitamins, minerals, enzymes and other micronutrients. The first four are the basis for a good diet, by getting the other nutrients - which are essential for life - the body can utilize the first four for maximum performance and functioning.
Why vitamins?
Vitamins are essential to life - they regulate metabolism and assist the biochemical processes that release energy from digested food and are the foundation of body functions. Some are water soluble which cannot be stored in the body so therefore they must be taken into the body daily - includes Vitamin C and B-complexes. Others are fat soluble vitamins which can be stored for longer periods of time in the body's fatty tissue and liver - includes vitamins A, D,E, and K.
To mention just a couple of important ones are: Vitamin C is an antioxidant that is required for at least 300 metabolic functions in the body including tissue growth and repair, adrenal gland function, healthy gums, the formation of collagen - the "glue" that holds together the skin and connective tissue such as ligament and tendons. Vitamin C increased the absorption of iron. It can combine with toxic substances and render them harmless so that they can be eliminated from the body.
Inositol is vital for hair growth, it has a calming effect and helps to reduce cholesterol levels.
There are numerous other vitamins that are essential for proper health and wellness.
Audra Jensen is a horsewoman and consultant in the health and wellness industry. For more information about providing the proper nutrition for you horse visit: http://www.totalsupplements.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Importance-of-Vitamins-in-Supplements&id=6592645] Importance of Vitamins in Supplements
A wise man should consider that health is the greatest of human blessings." -Hippocrates
Research has shown that each part of the body contains high concentrations of certain nutrients, A deficiency of those nutrients will cause the body part to malfunction and eventually break down - like dominos, other body parts will follow. If we do not give ourselves or our horses the proper nutrients, we can impair the body's normal functions and cause great harm. Even if there are no signs of illness it doesn't necessarily mean they are healthy, it simply may be that they are not exhibiting symptoms of illness. Often the owners don't see the signs of deterioration as they are so subtle and develop so gradually that they go unnoticed until the problem becomes serious then they want a "quick fix" which may fix the symptoms however not the problem.
Many horses owners feed foods that are processed and/or cooked ( most senior feeds) which destroys most of the nutritional value. The use of pesticides and other toxins in the environment compromises the horses health along with the over use of antibiotics, both oral and injectable, the use of corticosteroids, vaccinations wormers and just the air we breath (smog and exhaust fumes). Much of the forages are stored outside in the elements and even if stored covered over a period of time the nutritional value is decreased. Good nutrition is the foundation of good health. There are books and much extensive information available, this is just a basic overview of what we have in our supplement and how it will help your four legged friends. Everyone needs the four basic nutrients - water, carbohydrates, protein and fats - as well as vitamins, minerals, enzymes and other micronutrients. The first four are the basis for a good diet, by getting the other nutrients - which are essential for life - the body can utilize the first four for maximum performance and functioning.
Why vitamins?
Vitamins are essential to life - they regulate metabolism and assist the biochemical processes that release energy from digested food and are the foundation of body functions. Some are water soluble which cannot be stored in the body so therefore they must be taken into the body daily - includes Vitamin C and B-complexes. Others are fat soluble vitamins which can be stored for longer periods of time in the body's fatty tissue and liver - includes vitamins A, D,E, and K.
To mention just a couple of important ones are: Vitamin C is an antioxidant that is required for at least 300 metabolic functions in the body including tissue growth and repair, adrenal gland function, healthy gums, the formation of collagen - the "glue" that holds together the skin and connective tissue such as ligament and tendons. Vitamin C increased the absorption of iron. It can combine with toxic substances and render them harmless so that they can be eliminated from the body.
Inositol is vital for hair growth, it has a calming effect and helps to reduce cholesterol levels.
There are numerous other vitamins that are essential for proper health and wellness.
Audra Jensen is a horsewoman and consultant in the health and wellness industry. For more information about providing the proper nutrition for you horse visit: http://www.totalsupplements.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Importance-of-Vitamins-in-Supplements&id=6592645] Importance of Vitamins in Supplements
Monday, January 9, 2012
Laminitis and Ways to Overcome the Disease
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Erin_C_Brankowski]Erin C Brankowski
Laminitis is a severely painful, debilitating and on occasions, fatal condition. It can be caused by a number of factors but it is commonly thoughts that in over 80% of cases the condition can be avoided through better dietary management and knowledge surrounding the area. With increased testing, studies and experts dedicated to understanding this condition, knowledge is constantly evolving enabling horse owners can have access to information and advice on the causes and prevention of dietary related laminitis.
There have been massive leaps forward in the understanding of laminitis in the last decade and now more than ever it is clear that there is more than one nutritional reason for the cause of laminitis. There are 3 main reasons why and where you may be setting up your horse for a long term battle with their weight which can, in many cases, result in laminitis.
Metabolic Causes
Horses with laminitis, that are comfortably carrying excess weight and have been for a long time, whilst not eating starchy food, will most likely have laminitis due to the long term changes in the way his body has adapted to deal with the excess insulin and sugar. Often the onset of laminitis in these cases will seem sudden and the horse highly susceptible just because of eating a little too much grass than they are accustomed to. In these cases it can take longer to treat the problem due to needing to reduce body fat and insulin resistance.
Short term solutions include:
- Feeding hay that has been soaked for 12 hours. Small holed haynets will also slow down consumption. This way the bulk is provided but the calorie content is reduced.
- Vitamins and minerals should be provided in a balanced manor. Feed should also include anti-oxidants.
- Adding three tablespoons of cod-liver oil to feed.
Long term solutions include reducing body fat score to below 3 and weighing your horse weekly can assist in determining progress.
Epigenetics
Science and recent research has shown that the diet of the broodmare as well as the diet of the foal can play a significant role in increasing the risk of obesity and laminitis in later life. The diet can have a direct impact on the effect of the genes of the foetus. It can affect the mechanism that switches on or off the genes - this is known as Epigenetics. These differences can alter foetal development and growth as well as having an influence over patterns of gene expression related with an increase in the risk of many diseases.
Solutions/ precautionary measures include a low calorie balanced diet for broodmares. Understanding that grass provides high calorie content but low mineral content is also important and supplementary minerals should be given. In addition, reducing the thickness of rugs can encourage weight loss.
Dietary Insult
Most of us are aware that horses have sensitive digestive tracts, so any sudden change in diet that changes the fermentation of the hindgut can cause laminitis. Large starch filled meals are common contributory causes. The sudden change in gut flora is very serious and it is important that the dietary cause of this be removed and your vet be consulted as this can be life threatening.
Solutions include:
- Consult a veterinarian to determine whether a feed of bran mash could assist in wiping out the unwanted bacteria from the hind gut.
- Yea Sacc can assist in improving hindgut fermentation. B Vitamins without high levels of copper and iron can also be supplemented to help de-stress the liver and remove toxins that will have been released from the hind gut.
- High fibre feeds will help to re-establish friendly bacteria. The process of chewing will also produce higher levels of saliva which has been known to help.
For further information on horse diseases, where to find [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Rider]equine clothing, horse boots, horse rugs or any other topics that have been raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine who are experts in the equestrian field.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Laminitis-and-Ways-to-Overcome-the-Disease&id=6588610] Laminitis and Ways to Overcome the Disease
Laminitis is a severely painful, debilitating and on occasions, fatal condition. It can be caused by a number of factors but it is commonly thoughts that in over 80% of cases the condition can be avoided through better dietary management and knowledge surrounding the area. With increased testing, studies and experts dedicated to understanding this condition, knowledge is constantly evolving enabling horse owners can have access to information and advice on the causes and prevention of dietary related laminitis.
There have been massive leaps forward in the understanding of laminitis in the last decade and now more than ever it is clear that there is more than one nutritional reason for the cause of laminitis. There are 3 main reasons why and where you may be setting up your horse for a long term battle with their weight which can, in many cases, result in laminitis.
Metabolic Causes
Horses with laminitis, that are comfortably carrying excess weight and have been for a long time, whilst not eating starchy food, will most likely have laminitis due to the long term changes in the way his body has adapted to deal with the excess insulin and sugar. Often the onset of laminitis in these cases will seem sudden and the horse highly susceptible just because of eating a little too much grass than they are accustomed to. In these cases it can take longer to treat the problem due to needing to reduce body fat and insulin resistance.
Short term solutions include:
- Feeding hay that has been soaked for 12 hours. Small holed haynets will also slow down consumption. This way the bulk is provided but the calorie content is reduced.
- Vitamins and minerals should be provided in a balanced manor. Feed should also include anti-oxidants.
- Adding three tablespoons of cod-liver oil to feed.
Long term solutions include reducing body fat score to below 3 and weighing your horse weekly can assist in determining progress.
Epigenetics
Science and recent research has shown that the diet of the broodmare as well as the diet of the foal can play a significant role in increasing the risk of obesity and laminitis in later life. The diet can have a direct impact on the effect of the genes of the foetus. It can affect the mechanism that switches on or off the genes - this is known as Epigenetics. These differences can alter foetal development and growth as well as having an influence over patterns of gene expression related with an increase in the risk of many diseases.
Solutions/ precautionary measures include a low calorie balanced diet for broodmares. Understanding that grass provides high calorie content but low mineral content is also important and supplementary minerals should be given. In addition, reducing the thickness of rugs can encourage weight loss.
Dietary Insult
Most of us are aware that horses have sensitive digestive tracts, so any sudden change in diet that changes the fermentation of the hindgut can cause laminitis. Large starch filled meals are common contributory causes. The sudden change in gut flora is very serious and it is important that the dietary cause of this be removed and your vet be consulted as this can be life threatening.
Solutions include:
- Consult a veterinarian to determine whether a feed of bran mash could assist in wiping out the unwanted bacteria from the hind gut.
- Yea Sacc can assist in improving hindgut fermentation. B Vitamins without high levels of copper and iron can also be supplemented to help de-stress the liver and remove toxins that will have been released from the hind gut.
- High fibre feeds will help to re-establish friendly bacteria. The process of chewing will also produce higher levels of saliva which has been known to help.
For further information on horse diseases, where to find [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk/Rider]equine clothing, horse boots, horse rugs or any other topics that have been raised, visit [http://www.anythingequine.co.uk]Anything Equine who are experts in the equestrian field.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Laminitis-and-Ways-to-Overcome-the-Disease&id=6588610] Laminitis and Ways to Overcome the Disease
Saturday, January 7, 2012
Photographing Foals
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jaime_Foutty]Jaime Foutty
It takes about 340 actual days to get a foal here, not to mention the breeding time and the endless hours fawning over every famous stallion in the Journal before that. Many times a foal is in the works well over a year by the time it gets here. But finally the day has come! Your new pride and joy has hit the ground, stood and nursed successfully, and is growing like a weed. How do I share my new bundle of joy with my friends over the Internet?
Photographing foals is not easy. In addition to the steps I will outline below, you need PATIENCE. Foals must be in the right spot, by accident, and you must be in the right spot, on purpose. In addition, random acts like ears up, eyes open, feet placement, etc., must all happen at the right moment to get that perfect foal photograph to show off his new perfect conformation! So before you even go out to the paddock, make sure you have plenty of time for this endeavor.
Tips for photographing foals
1. If possible, pick a day that is overcast but still bright. As mentioned above, many things must come into alignment to make that great photo you are after. You will be severely limiting your possibilities if you can only shoot one direction because you need to keep a bright sun at your back.
2. Unless you own a digital or film SLR with interchangeable lenses, stick to profile shots. It is very hard to get front and rear views with a point and shoot. The photos usually tend to make the babies look distorted. If you do own a SLR camera, watch for Part 2 of this article coming soon!
3. Watch for the foal to set himself up. Ideally you'd like the two legs closest to you to be square and the two legs furthest from you to be visible under the foal's belly (ie, the back leg is forward of square and the front leg is back of square). Many foals, depending on age, do not stand up well yet so don't be alarmed if they are a bit stretched and not quite square.
4. The best place to be is directly perpendicular to the foal's flank, but focus on the shoulder. This creates a slight forward angle of the camera lens.
5. Since most people are much taller than most foals, it is best to squat or lean over so the camera is no taller than the foal's withers.
6. Remember patience! Be ready! If the foal put his ears up and looks at something, shoot away!
If you have digital, don't be afraid to take several. But also don't be afraid to try again. Foals move. You might complete steps 3-5 several times before you actually get to take a picture. By trying to stay perpendicular to the foal's flank, you may have to move several feet if the foal simply takes a diagonal step in any direction. Good foal photos can take hours! You may take dozens or even hundreds just to get a couple decent ones to share on Facebook!
A trick I've learned is that many times a foal is set up nearly right while nursing. The foal will usually take a break and peek up and see what's going on before continuing the meal. This is a great time to see if you can get photos! Also if your foals are super friendly, you may need a partner to act as "bait" for you. Otherwise you will be forced to take many closeups of nostrils or go home empty handed!
Jaime Foutty of [http://www.equinefotography.com]Equine Fotography has over ten years experience in the equine field with a special fondness for foal photography. To learn more tricks and tips for free, read her blog [http://www.FlatKnees.com]FlatKnees&Fotography.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Photographing-Foals&id=6577288] Photographing Foals
It takes about 340 actual days to get a foal here, not to mention the breeding time and the endless hours fawning over every famous stallion in the Journal before that. Many times a foal is in the works well over a year by the time it gets here. But finally the day has come! Your new pride and joy has hit the ground, stood and nursed successfully, and is growing like a weed. How do I share my new bundle of joy with my friends over the Internet?
Photographing foals is not easy. In addition to the steps I will outline below, you need PATIENCE. Foals must be in the right spot, by accident, and you must be in the right spot, on purpose. In addition, random acts like ears up, eyes open, feet placement, etc., must all happen at the right moment to get that perfect foal photograph to show off his new perfect conformation! So before you even go out to the paddock, make sure you have plenty of time for this endeavor.
Tips for photographing foals
1. If possible, pick a day that is overcast but still bright. As mentioned above, many things must come into alignment to make that great photo you are after. You will be severely limiting your possibilities if you can only shoot one direction because you need to keep a bright sun at your back.
2. Unless you own a digital or film SLR with interchangeable lenses, stick to profile shots. It is very hard to get front and rear views with a point and shoot. The photos usually tend to make the babies look distorted. If you do own a SLR camera, watch for Part 2 of this article coming soon!
3. Watch for the foal to set himself up. Ideally you'd like the two legs closest to you to be square and the two legs furthest from you to be visible under the foal's belly (ie, the back leg is forward of square and the front leg is back of square). Many foals, depending on age, do not stand up well yet so don't be alarmed if they are a bit stretched and not quite square.
4. The best place to be is directly perpendicular to the foal's flank, but focus on the shoulder. This creates a slight forward angle of the camera lens.
5. Since most people are much taller than most foals, it is best to squat or lean over so the camera is no taller than the foal's withers.
6. Remember patience! Be ready! If the foal put his ears up and looks at something, shoot away!
If you have digital, don't be afraid to take several. But also don't be afraid to try again. Foals move. You might complete steps 3-5 several times before you actually get to take a picture. By trying to stay perpendicular to the foal's flank, you may have to move several feet if the foal simply takes a diagonal step in any direction. Good foal photos can take hours! You may take dozens or even hundreds just to get a couple decent ones to share on Facebook!
A trick I've learned is that many times a foal is set up nearly right while nursing. The foal will usually take a break and peek up and see what's going on before continuing the meal. This is a great time to see if you can get photos! Also if your foals are super friendly, you may need a partner to act as "bait" for you. Otherwise you will be forced to take many closeups of nostrils or go home empty handed!
Jaime Foutty of [http://www.equinefotography.com]Equine Fotography has over ten years experience in the equine field with a special fondness for foal photography. To learn more tricks and tips for free, read her blog [http://www.FlatKnees.com]FlatKnees&Fotography.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Photographing-Foals&id=6577288] Photographing Foals
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Photographing Foals - Front Shots
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jaime_Foutty]Jaime Foutty
Moving on to other Foal Shots
So you read Part 1, and you have a nice digital SLR camera with a few lenses. You want to get the front views to show off. How do you do that? Learning to recognize the correct pose of the foal is again essential. Since most babies don't know showmanship, patience is again a key element, as you must wait for the foal to get into position, by accident. The other elements from Part 1, such as lighting and camera position, will remain the same.
So what about the camera requirement? What's that all about? In order to keep everything in proper proportions, you need to shoot at about 70mm or greater. Most point and shoot cameras are equipped with wide angle lenses and rarely reach this range. This means you will need a telephoto lens. I have a 70-300mm zoom lens that works well for baby shots as it lets me stay a bit further away if I need to.
When working with this type of equipment, you open yourself up to many more options and poses for your pictures. For this article, I am going to focus on the front 3/4 shot that's popular amongst stock breeds for showing off face markings, muscling, and straight legs. When viewed straight on, a horse posed correctly for a front 3/4 shot will almost appear to have the same distance left to right between all four legs, (this is, of course, a simple illusion of two dimensional pictures). In a perfect set up, both gaskins and both forearms will be completely visible without any overlapping. The horse's neck will come straight out of his body and he will NOT be looking at the camera, he'll be looking straight. The camera will be right in front of the shoulder, and the horse will be at an angle to the camera.
Three Quarter Shot?
So what angle do you need? The misnomer 3/4 shot implies a 45 degree angle but that isn't quite right. The actual angle will depend slightly on the size of the horse and how he's set up, so try to stick with the tips I outlined above (equi-distant legs, gaskins visible, etc) instead of focusing on an exact angle.
They are Babies!!
So after you've read all this good advice about perfect and proper posing for 3/4 shots, go out to the field and then be easy on yourself! They are babies. They won't set up perfect every time. Just go with it. At liberty foal pictures are about the "total good" of the shot and are rarely expected to be perfectly posed.
Jaime Foutty of [http://www.equinefotography.com]Equine Fotography has over ten years experience in the equine field with a special fondness for foal photography. To learn more tricks and tips for free, read her blog [http://www.flatknees.com]FlatKnees&Fotography.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Photographing-Foals---Front-Shots&id=6577353] Photographing Foals - Front Shots
Moving on to other Foal Shots
So you read Part 1, and you have a nice digital SLR camera with a few lenses. You want to get the front views to show off. How do you do that? Learning to recognize the correct pose of the foal is again essential. Since most babies don't know showmanship, patience is again a key element, as you must wait for the foal to get into position, by accident. The other elements from Part 1, such as lighting and camera position, will remain the same.
So what about the camera requirement? What's that all about? In order to keep everything in proper proportions, you need to shoot at about 70mm or greater. Most point and shoot cameras are equipped with wide angle lenses and rarely reach this range. This means you will need a telephoto lens. I have a 70-300mm zoom lens that works well for baby shots as it lets me stay a bit further away if I need to.
When working with this type of equipment, you open yourself up to many more options and poses for your pictures. For this article, I am going to focus on the front 3/4 shot that's popular amongst stock breeds for showing off face markings, muscling, and straight legs. When viewed straight on, a horse posed correctly for a front 3/4 shot will almost appear to have the same distance left to right between all four legs, (this is, of course, a simple illusion of two dimensional pictures). In a perfect set up, both gaskins and both forearms will be completely visible without any overlapping. The horse's neck will come straight out of his body and he will NOT be looking at the camera, he'll be looking straight. The camera will be right in front of the shoulder, and the horse will be at an angle to the camera.
Three Quarter Shot?
So what angle do you need? The misnomer 3/4 shot implies a 45 degree angle but that isn't quite right. The actual angle will depend slightly on the size of the horse and how he's set up, so try to stick with the tips I outlined above (equi-distant legs, gaskins visible, etc) instead of focusing on an exact angle.
They are Babies!!
So after you've read all this good advice about perfect and proper posing for 3/4 shots, go out to the field and then be easy on yourself! They are babies. They won't set up perfect every time. Just go with it. At liberty foal pictures are about the "total good" of the shot and are rarely expected to be perfectly posed.
Jaime Foutty of [http://www.equinefotography.com]Equine Fotography has over ten years experience in the equine field with a special fondness for foal photography. To learn more tricks and tips for free, read her blog [http://www.flatknees.com]FlatKnees&Fotography.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Photographing-Foals---Front-Shots&id=6577353] Photographing Foals - Front Shots
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
Effective Sweet Itch Treatment With Flaxseed For Horses
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jose_N_Gordon]Jose N Gordon
Sweet itch is a type of skin disease that originated in Iceland and affected about 20 percent of all ponies in the area. This is caused by bite from insects such as the biting midge or the Culicoides that inserts serum into the skin causing it to produce allergic reactions. These insects are not native to the area and it was therefore only a matter of time until it began to affect horses in various parts of the world. The idea of flaxseed for horses as treatment for this type of skin disease, aside from being known as a holistic supplement for horses, is now emerging and one of the main focus of research in horse care industry.
Considered as one of the best supplements for maintaining horse health is ground flaxseed for horses. This is routinely feed by stable managers and horse owners to their pets due to the numerous health benefits it had to offer.Thus, many are also looking at the possibility of it being used for sweet itch treatment. It has been previously used for treating atopic skin disease for dogs and research is now undergoing for its application on horses to determine if it will be effective or not.
Before the idea of feeding flaxseed to horses as alternative treatment for sweet itch came about, horse owners had to rely on the costly standard corticosteroid therapy. According to studies made so far, this supplement is capable of reducing the intra-dermal response of affected horses to the supplement.
The Equine Research Center has observed and tried the use of ground flaxseed for horses that were affected with this condition. They were divided into two groups of three, wherein one was fed with flaxseed while the other group was not. They were given a ration of flaxseed for the next 42 days under controlled conditions and was observed for every 14-day break.
When the results were turned in, they were very telling and it gave more insight for researchers as to how feeding flaxseed to horses can prove beneficial for this type of disease. The skin test for horses that were fed with flaxseed significantly improved as compared to the group of horses that did not receive this kind of supplement throughout the duration of treatment period. These results were generated despite not having much of a difference when it comes to the surface temperature in the controlled environment for these horses.
To be specific, the improvement in horses that were receiving flaxseed as part of treatment had less concentration of long-chain saturated fatty acids on their coat. It therefore creates a chain of reaction with the proteins and minerals that help preserve the quality of the hair and skin of the horse. By preventing any dramatic changes in the amount of saturated fatty acids in the horse's hair, you can also boost or maintain immune response of the equines against any possible causes of allergic reaction.
There are still research and studies ongoing to learn about the benefits of flaxseed for horses when it comes to treating sweet itch. However, researchers who conducted this experiment were able to arrive at a few conclusions for now.
The first conclusion is that introducing flaxseed as part of treatment procedure against atopic skin disease creates no adverse side effects on the skin. As of now, researchers are hoping to conduct another lab study with more participants for a more accurate evaluation of results. However, this is a good start for horse owners worrying about the possibility that their pets will be affected by this skin disease.
Jose N. Gordon writes about the benefits of [http://horseflax.com]feeding flaxseed to horses. You can visit his website to learn more about the promising benefits of [http://horseflax.com]flaxseed for horses as part of their daily diet.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Effective-Sweet-Itch-Treatment-With-Flaxseed-For-Horses&id=6588350] Effective Sweet Itch Treatment With Flaxseed For Horses
Sweet itch is a type of skin disease that originated in Iceland and affected about 20 percent of all ponies in the area. This is caused by bite from insects such as the biting midge or the Culicoides that inserts serum into the skin causing it to produce allergic reactions. These insects are not native to the area and it was therefore only a matter of time until it began to affect horses in various parts of the world. The idea of flaxseed for horses as treatment for this type of skin disease, aside from being known as a holistic supplement for horses, is now emerging and one of the main focus of research in horse care industry.
Considered as one of the best supplements for maintaining horse health is ground flaxseed for horses. This is routinely feed by stable managers and horse owners to their pets due to the numerous health benefits it had to offer.Thus, many are also looking at the possibility of it being used for sweet itch treatment. It has been previously used for treating atopic skin disease for dogs and research is now undergoing for its application on horses to determine if it will be effective or not.
Before the idea of feeding flaxseed to horses as alternative treatment for sweet itch came about, horse owners had to rely on the costly standard corticosteroid therapy. According to studies made so far, this supplement is capable of reducing the intra-dermal response of affected horses to the supplement.
The Equine Research Center has observed and tried the use of ground flaxseed for horses that were affected with this condition. They were divided into two groups of three, wherein one was fed with flaxseed while the other group was not. They were given a ration of flaxseed for the next 42 days under controlled conditions and was observed for every 14-day break.
When the results were turned in, they were very telling and it gave more insight for researchers as to how feeding flaxseed to horses can prove beneficial for this type of disease. The skin test for horses that were fed with flaxseed significantly improved as compared to the group of horses that did not receive this kind of supplement throughout the duration of treatment period. These results were generated despite not having much of a difference when it comes to the surface temperature in the controlled environment for these horses.
To be specific, the improvement in horses that were receiving flaxseed as part of treatment had less concentration of long-chain saturated fatty acids on their coat. It therefore creates a chain of reaction with the proteins and minerals that help preserve the quality of the hair and skin of the horse. By preventing any dramatic changes in the amount of saturated fatty acids in the horse's hair, you can also boost or maintain immune response of the equines against any possible causes of allergic reaction.
There are still research and studies ongoing to learn about the benefits of flaxseed for horses when it comes to treating sweet itch. However, researchers who conducted this experiment were able to arrive at a few conclusions for now.
The first conclusion is that introducing flaxseed as part of treatment procedure against atopic skin disease creates no adverse side effects on the skin. As of now, researchers are hoping to conduct another lab study with more participants for a more accurate evaluation of results. However, this is a good start for horse owners worrying about the possibility that their pets will be affected by this skin disease.
Jose N. Gordon writes about the benefits of [http://horseflax.com]feeding flaxseed to horses. You can visit his website to learn more about the promising benefits of [http://horseflax.com]flaxseed for horses as part of their daily diet.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Effective-Sweet-Itch-Treatment-With-Flaxseed-For-Horses&id=6588350] Effective Sweet Itch Treatment With Flaxseed For Horses
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Horse's Aging Joints: Equine Anti-Inflammatory Supplements
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Diane_Dulmage]Diane Dulmage
Much like we humans, maintaining your horse's aging joints and keeping them in a healthy stable condition needs to be a priority when looking after your steed. It is expected that at some point in every horse's life they are going to end up struggling with joint problems. This is by no means a bias article where we say one product is better than another. Here we will discuss a few of the equine anti-inflammatory supplements that are readily available.
Glucosamine
Glucosamine is often used to treat a human who suffers problems with their joints, and it works in a similar way when used for horses. It's a naturally produced substance in both human and animal bodies, and the highest amount can usually be found in the cartilage.
Cartilage is always getting worn down, however whilst our bodies are young and fresh we are able to produce enough of this substance naturally to keep replacing what might be worn away. The problem is that when we're older, and cannot produce enough to keep our joints as healthy. At some point in both humans and horses lives this tends to happen.
Now glucosamine isn't a complete anti-inflammatory substance. However it does incur some anti-inflammatory effects which could make it one of the more preferable solutions.
Methylsulfonylmethan (MSM)
MSM is known for the ability to relieve pain and inflammation. It's said to be an organosulfur compound that contain sulphur or sulphur. Sulphur is said to be the chemical element that can react as either an oxidant or reducing agent, and seems to also be key in producing glucosamine naturally in the body, which in turns help to keep the joints healthy. It is said that keeping the level of MSM high can help promote healthy joints once again.
Devil's Claw
One of the more common solutions you will come across when searching for equine anti-inflammatory supplements is a plant called Devil's Claw. Devil's Claw is said to be a natural herbal remedy that helps maintain healthy joints in horses through the promotion of its anti-inflammatory and pain relieving effects. It is commonly used in hoses performing sports, due to the high amount of stress these animals are under, and it helps to relieve pain during performances. Apparently, it can be easily introduce to the horses diet by just mixing it in with its regular feed.
Turmeric
Turmeric is known as a spice that is bright yellow aromatic powder made from grinding the rhizome, a plant of the ginger family and its chief active component is curcumin. It's also a primary ingredient in curry powder and turmeric is also being used medically.
The beneficial advantages of turmeric and curcumin are nearly too many to list. The following quote was published in Advanced Experimental Medical Biology in 2007; "Curcumin has been shown to exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, and anticancer activities and thus has a potential against various malignant diseases, diabetes, allergies, arthritis, Alzheimer's disease and other chronic illnesses."
However, supplements and herbs are not the only approach you could use in helping your horse, as there are many other different solutions out there in the marketplace today. None of the products described here are necessarily the best equine anti-inflammatory supplements. So, if your horse is now struggling with stressed joints or suffering a lot of pain it is recommended that you take your animal to an equine specialist before you even consider treating them with any form of medicine or supplement. If you would like more details on natural supplements, I recommend you visit: http://buycurost.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horses-Aging-Joints:-Equine-Anti-Inflammatory-Supplements&id=6595185] Horse's Aging Joints: Equine Anti-Inflammatory Supplements
Much like we humans, maintaining your horse's aging joints and keeping them in a healthy stable condition needs to be a priority when looking after your steed. It is expected that at some point in every horse's life they are going to end up struggling with joint problems. This is by no means a bias article where we say one product is better than another. Here we will discuss a few of the equine anti-inflammatory supplements that are readily available.
Glucosamine
Glucosamine is often used to treat a human who suffers problems with their joints, and it works in a similar way when used for horses. It's a naturally produced substance in both human and animal bodies, and the highest amount can usually be found in the cartilage.
Cartilage is always getting worn down, however whilst our bodies are young and fresh we are able to produce enough of this substance naturally to keep replacing what might be worn away. The problem is that when we're older, and cannot produce enough to keep our joints as healthy. At some point in both humans and horses lives this tends to happen.
Now glucosamine isn't a complete anti-inflammatory substance. However it does incur some anti-inflammatory effects which could make it one of the more preferable solutions.
Methylsulfonylmethan (MSM)
MSM is known for the ability to relieve pain and inflammation. It's said to be an organosulfur compound that contain sulphur or sulphur. Sulphur is said to be the chemical element that can react as either an oxidant or reducing agent, and seems to also be key in producing glucosamine naturally in the body, which in turns help to keep the joints healthy. It is said that keeping the level of MSM high can help promote healthy joints once again.
Devil's Claw
One of the more common solutions you will come across when searching for equine anti-inflammatory supplements is a plant called Devil's Claw. Devil's Claw is said to be a natural herbal remedy that helps maintain healthy joints in horses through the promotion of its anti-inflammatory and pain relieving effects. It is commonly used in hoses performing sports, due to the high amount of stress these animals are under, and it helps to relieve pain during performances. Apparently, it can be easily introduce to the horses diet by just mixing it in with its regular feed.
Turmeric
Turmeric is known as a spice that is bright yellow aromatic powder made from grinding the rhizome, a plant of the ginger family and its chief active component is curcumin. It's also a primary ingredient in curry powder and turmeric is also being used medically.
The beneficial advantages of turmeric and curcumin are nearly too many to list. The following quote was published in Advanced Experimental Medical Biology in 2007; "Curcumin has been shown to exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, and anticancer activities and thus has a potential against various malignant diseases, diabetes, allergies, arthritis, Alzheimer's disease and other chronic illnesses."
However, supplements and herbs are not the only approach you could use in helping your horse, as there are many other different solutions out there in the marketplace today. None of the products described here are necessarily the best equine anti-inflammatory supplements. So, if your horse is now struggling with stressed joints or suffering a lot of pain it is recommended that you take your animal to an equine specialist before you even consider treating them with any form of medicine or supplement. If you would like more details on natural supplements, I recommend you visit: http://buycurost.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horses-Aging-Joints:-Equine-Anti-Inflammatory-Supplements&id=6595185] Horse's Aging Joints: Equine Anti-Inflammatory Supplements
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