By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Donna_J_Diehl]Donna J Diehl
Nylon webbing that is flat or flat leather are two common designs for horse halters. These are attached by rings. A halter made of rope is usually joined by knots but otherwise made basically the same. A horse halter is used to tie up the animal or lead the animal from the ground. A horse is very seldom ridden with a halter because you do not have a lot of control. Halters are designed for nothing except leading or tying up the horse or catching and holding the horse. For tying up the horse a halter is safer than a bridle. The bridle can break and the bit hurt the horse's mouth.
The horse halter has a noseband and headstall that buckles around the horse's head. The lead rope is attached to the halter for easy handling. Some lead ropes have chains attached. The chain is placed under the jaw or over the nose of the horse for better control when leading the horse. This is used for horses that are hard to handle.
The halter is generally taken off when the horse is released into the pasture or put into the stall. Some people leave the halter on when they release the horse into the pasture but there is always a safety issue with doing this. The halter can catch on something and the horse can get injured. Of course, this makes the horse easier to catch.
When you approach your horse always approach from the front. Walk toward his shoulder and talk to him as you are approaching. Reach under the horse's neck with your left hand while holding the lead rope and change the lead rope to your right hand. You can then make a loop around his neck and while you halter, hold him. Make sure your halter is unbuckled. Place the noseband of the halter in position and buckle the halter, still having control of the horse with the loop around his neck. Remove the loop and you are ready to lead.
Make a loop around the horse's neck when you are ready to remove the halter, the same as you did when you were putting the halter on. Hold the loop, unbuckle the halter and slip it off the horse's nose. Hold onto the loop for a couple seconds so that the horse does not get into the habit of moving away as soon as he feels the halter come off.
While working with your horse in halter do not wrap the excess lead rope into a circular coil. Your hand could become entangled in the coil and you could get injured. Wrap the excess rope into a figure eight and hold the outside of the rope with your free hand. If the horse pulls away the rope will give one section at a time and you will not be injured. Never wrap the lead rope around your body at any time. Remember, the horse is much stronger than you are.
Usually, you are on the left side of the horse when you are leading him but a horse should be trained to lead from either side. Go take a quick look at rel=nofollow [http://thebestofhorses.com/]thebest of horses.com for more information on halters.
If you would like to see more information on horse halters go take a look at http://www.thebestofhorses.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Horse-Halters&id=6551279] Horse Halters
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Monday, February 6, 2012
Choosing a Suitable Stable Rug for Your Horse
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jamie_Simpson]Jamie Simpson
Stable horse rugs are designed to keep your horse warm, protected and clean when stabled. There is a massive range of stable rugs available on the market, each offering various key features, all of which need to be considered when purchasing a stable rug.
Your biggest decision may well be surrounding the level of warmth offered by the rug. This is dependent upon the amount of filling inside the rug. The filling, often referred to as weight, will vary from lightweight (no to 110g of filling) to medium weight (120g to 250g of filling) to heavyweight (above 250g of filling).
Your requirements in terms of weight will depend on the time of year, your horse's needs and the location in which your horse is stabled. For example a horse that feels the cold in winter will need a thicker rug than a hardier horse. Equally, if the horse is stabled inside a barn, this is usually warmer and hence the horse requires a less heavy rug than when kept in a stable that's open to the elements.
Another key choice is whether to purchase a 'standard neck' stable rug or a 'full neck' or 'combo' version. This difference between these is how the rug is cut at the neck. A 'standard neck' rug starts at the horse's withers and therefore does not cover the horse's neck. 'Combo' or full neck horse rugs, which cover the horse's neck from the ears, offer greater warmth and protection. However some standard neck stable rugs offer the option of a separate neck cover, which can be added onto the rug, enabling you to adjust the coverage as the weather changes.
One main consideration when choosing the style and weight of stable rug is whether your horse has been clipped or not. You will need to replace any coverage that has been lost through clipping. This should be taken into account when making the choice between a full neck and a standard neck stable rug.
The depth of the rug will also affect how much warmth it will provide the horse with. This shape will vary with style and brand. As many economy rugs are less generous, spending less can be a false economy as you may find that the rug does not offer the coverage and protection that your horse requires.
The 'Denier' of a rug describes the strength of the outer fabric; the higher the Denier the tougher the material on the outer of the rug. As a stable rug is not open to the elements or as much potential damage as a turnout rug, they tend to have a lower Denier rating. However, as with turnout rugs, a stable rug with a higher Denier is likely to be tougher, and hence may last longer. It is important to remember that stable rugs will still rip if placed under sufficient pressure; this is as a safety mechanism to prevent your horse from being injured.
Stable rugs offer a wide range of fixtures and fittings to help keep them securely in place. This is important as your horse may roll in his stable, causing the rug to slip. Most stable rugs will feature chest straps, cross surcingles and leg straps as well as any closures for the neck cover. Ensure that these attachments are done up correctly to avoid the rug coming loose or rubbing.
There are also additional features that can help improve the comfort of a rug; an essential consideration as your horse is going to be wearing this piece of equipment regularly and for significant periods of time. Look for anti-rub linings, particularly at the shoulder as this is a high risk area for chaffing, and shoulder and neck gussets, which allow for greater freedom of movement, especially important for when the horse lies down and then stands up!
You can find a wide range of of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/stable/]stable rugs at great prices at Equestrian Clearance.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Choosing-a-Suitable-Stable-Rug-for-Your-Horse&id=6559826] Choosing a Suitable Stable Rug for Your Horse
Stable horse rugs are designed to keep your horse warm, protected and clean when stabled. There is a massive range of stable rugs available on the market, each offering various key features, all of which need to be considered when purchasing a stable rug.
Your biggest decision may well be surrounding the level of warmth offered by the rug. This is dependent upon the amount of filling inside the rug. The filling, often referred to as weight, will vary from lightweight (no to 110g of filling) to medium weight (120g to 250g of filling) to heavyweight (above 250g of filling).
Your requirements in terms of weight will depend on the time of year, your horse's needs and the location in which your horse is stabled. For example a horse that feels the cold in winter will need a thicker rug than a hardier horse. Equally, if the horse is stabled inside a barn, this is usually warmer and hence the horse requires a less heavy rug than when kept in a stable that's open to the elements.
Another key choice is whether to purchase a 'standard neck' stable rug or a 'full neck' or 'combo' version. This difference between these is how the rug is cut at the neck. A 'standard neck' rug starts at the horse's withers and therefore does not cover the horse's neck. 'Combo' or full neck horse rugs, which cover the horse's neck from the ears, offer greater warmth and protection. However some standard neck stable rugs offer the option of a separate neck cover, which can be added onto the rug, enabling you to adjust the coverage as the weather changes.
One main consideration when choosing the style and weight of stable rug is whether your horse has been clipped or not. You will need to replace any coverage that has been lost through clipping. This should be taken into account when making the choice between a full neck and a standard neck stable rug.
The depth of the rug will also affect how much warmth it will provide the horse with. This shape will vary with style and brand. As many economy rugs are less generous, spending less can be a false economy as you may find that the rug does not offer the coverage and protection that your horse requires.
The 'Denier' of a rug describes the strength of the outer fabric; the higher the Denier the tougher the material on the outer of the rug. As a stable rug is not open to the elements or as much potential damage as a turnout rug, they tend to have a lower Denier rating. However, as with turnout rugs, a stable rug with a higher Denier is likely to be tougher, and hence may last longer. It is important to remember that stable rugs will still rip if placed under sufficient pressure; this is as a safety mechanism to prevent your horse from being injured.
Stable rugs offer a wide range of fixtures and fittings to help keep them securely in place. This is important as your horse may roll in his stable, causing the rug to slip. Most stable rugs will feature chest straps, cross surcingles and leg straps as well as any closures for the neck cover. Ensure that these attachments are done up correctly to avoid the rug coming loose or rubbing.
There are also additional features that can help improve the comfort of a rug; an essential consideration as your horse is going to be wearing this piece of equipment regularly and for significant periods of time. Look for anti-rub linings, particularly at the shoulder as this is a high risk area for chaffing, and shoulder and neck gussets, which allow for greater freedom of movement, especially important for when the horse lies down and then stands up!
You can find a wide range of of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/stable/]stable rugs at great prices at Equestrian Clearance.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Choosing-a-Suitable-Stable-Rug-for-Your-Horse&id=6559826] Choosing a Suitable Stable Rug for Your Horse
Saturday, February 4, 2012
How to Fit Your Horse With a Turnout Rug
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jamie_Simpson]Jamie Simpson
It is important to ensure that your turnout rug fits correctly and all fittings are done up properly. A poorly fitting rug can cause a host of issues, from the rug slipping and causing pressure points or rubs, to the horse's legs becoming tangled in surcingles or leg straps. This can be extremely dangerous for the horse and is likely to cause damage to the rug.
If you are purchasing your rug, the measurement for a turnout rug is taken from the centre of the horse's chest, in a straight line along the horse's side to a point level with the top of the horse's tail. Turnout rugs are sold based on measurements in feet and inches, which increase in 3" increments. So you will need to convert the length measurement into feet and inches in order to purchase a rug of the correct size.
When purchasing a rug bear in mind the build of your horse; if he is chunky, he will need a deeper rug, whereas a finer horse will require a more neatly cut rug.
The front of the rug should sit approximately 3" ahead of the withers, and never on the withers, as this sensitive area will be unable to withstand a heavy rug putting pressure on it. Remember that turnout rugs will weigh even more once wet or muddy.
Ideally the chest straps should be done up on approximately the middle hole, allowing the fabric beneath the straps to overlap and hence ensuring that the whole chest is covered. However this may vary depending on your horse's size and shape.
The rug should sit snuggly around the chest; you should be able to comfortably fit a hands width between the front of the rug and the horse's chest. This allows the horse room for movement and prevents chafing or drooping often seen in rugs which are too small or too large. These common problems can reduce warmth and protection, and can also put pressure on the horse's withers.
The shoulder dart or gusset should sit at the point of the horse's shoulder and the side of the rug should wrap around the horse's stomach. If the rug hangs down too low at the stomach; it is too deep, whilst if the horse's stomach is exposed; it is too short.
Attach the cross surcingles by passing them under the horse's belly. As the name suggests, they need to be crossed. This means that the more forward surcingle needs to be attached to the more rear attachment on the left hand side of the horse. The opposite is true of the more rear surcingle, which needs to be done up to the front of the rug. There should be a hand's width of space between the straps and the horse's belly. This will ensure that they do not cause discomfort to the horse, nor will they risk getting caught up in the horse's legs.
To attach the leg straps, pass the left-hand leg strap between the horse's legs and clip it onto the d-ring on the left hand side. Then take the opposite, right-hand leg strap and thread this through the left-hand leg strap and around the horse's offside leg before clipping it to the right-hand side d-ring. As with the cross surcingles, there should be a hand's width between the leg straps and the horse's thighs, again to prevent discomfort or potential danger.
If the turnout rug features a filet string, ensure that you pull the horse's tail over it, so that the filet string sits below the tail, helping to keep the rug in place.
The tail flap of the turnout rug should begin at the top of the horse's tail. If the rug extends beyond the horse's tail then it is too long and could pull backwards uncomfortably on the horse's withers. If the rug finishes before the horse's tail, it is too short and will not offer full protection to the horse.
You can find a wide range of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/turnout/]turnout rugs available in all sizes and at great prices at Equestrian Clearance
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Fit-Your-Horse-With-a-Turnout-Rug&id=6563113] How to Fit Your Horse With a Turnout Rug
It is important to ensure that your turnout rug fits correctly and all fittings are done up properly. A poorly fitting rug can cause a host of issues, from the rug slipping and causing pressure points or rubs, to the horse's legs becoming tangled in surcingles or leg straps. This can be extremely dangerous for the horse and is likely to cause damage to the rug.
If you are purchasing your rug, the measurement for a turnout rug is taken from the centre of the horse's chest, in a straight line along the horse's side to a point level with the top of the horse's tail. Turnout rugs are sold based on measurements in feet and inches, which increase in 3" increments. So you will need to convert the length measurement into feet and inches in order to purchase a rug of the correct size.
When purchasing a rug bear in mind the build of your horse; if he is chunky, he will need a deeper rug, whereas a finer horse will require a more neatly cut rug.
The front of the rug should sit approximately 3" ahead of the withers, and never on the withers, as this sensitive area will be unable to withstand a heavy rug putting pressure on it. Remember that turnout rugs will weigh even more once wet or muddy.
Ideally the chest straps should be done up on approximately the middle hole, allowing the fabric beneath the straps to overlap and hence ensuring that the whole chest is covered. However this may vary depending on your horse's size and shape.
The rug should sit snuggly around the chest; you should be able to comfortably fit a hands width between the front of the rug and the horse's chest. This allows the horse room for movement and prevents chafing or drooping often seen in rugs which are too small or too large. These common problems can reduce warmth and protection, and can also put pressure on the horse's withers.
The shoulder dart or gusset should sit at the point of the horse's shoulder and the side of the rug should wrap around the horse's stomach. If the rug hangs down too low at the stomach; it is too deep, whilst if the horse's stomach is exposed; it is too short.
Attach the cross surcingles by passing them under the horse's belly. As the name suggests, they need to be crossed. This means that the more forward surcingle needs to be attached to the more rear attachment on the left hand side of the horse. The opposite is true of the more rear surcingle, which needs to be done up to the front of the rug. There should be a hand's width of space between the straps and the horse's belly. This will ensure that they do not cause discomfort to the horse, nor will they risk getting caught up in the horse's legs.
To attach the leg straps, pass the left-hand leg strap between the horse's legs and clip it onto the d-ring on the left hand side. Then take the opposite, right-hand leg strap and thread this through the left-hand leg strap and around the horse's offside leg before clipping it to the right-hand side d-ring. As with the cross surcingles, there should be a hand's width between the leg straps and the horse's thighs, again to prevent discomfort or potential danger.
If the turnout rug features a filet string, ensure that you pull the horse's tail over it, so that the filet string sits below the tail, helping to keep the rug in place.
The tail flap of the turnout rug should begin at the top of the horse's tail. If the rug extends beyond the horse's tail then it is too long and could pull backwards uncomfortably on the horse's withers. If the rug finishes before the horse's tail, it is too short and will not offer full protection to the horse.
You can find a wide range of [http://www.equestrianclearance.com/products/horse_wear/rugs/turnout/]turnout rugs available in all sizes and at great prices at Equestrian Clearance
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Fit-Your-Horse-With-a-Turnout-Rug&id=6563113] How to Fit Your Horse With a Turnout Rug
Thursday, February 2, 2012
What's in Nature's Medicine Chest for Horse Allergies and Hayfever?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Rive]Jackie Rive
Does your horse suffer from allergies and hayfever like symptoms? Spring and summer can certainly be the time of year when such unpleasant problems can make themselves known. Just like humans, horses can suffer the horrible effects of hayfever but luckily there are some wonderful herbs available to ease the discomfort.
Hayfever in horses can often manifest as a recurrent cold like symptom with coughing and streaming eyes. It can be like a constant recurrent cold which your horse never seems to fully recover from. The lungs can become inflamed and your horse can be more susceptible to infections. Head shaking is another possible symptom. He may be tired and lethargic and generally seem quite miserable.
There are different causes to allergic respiratory problems. There are molds, spores and weeds which can be found in hay or even in the pastures during spring and summer. The body can become sensitive to these elements and cause an allergic reaction. When feeding hay it is wise to wet the hay so you are decreasing the dust element.
Your vet will be able to possibly find the cause using a procedure that looks at the fluid and cells in the horse's lungs to see how bad the allergy is. There is also a blood test that can determine what 'in fact your horse is allergic to which in turn will make it a lot easier to treat.
From a herbal perspective the horses immune system is usually seen to be quite low. You therefore can start treatment by boosting the immune system early in the season. Herbs such as Echinacea, Garlic. Rosehips and Kelp are all great general immune boosting herbs. Echinacea and Garlic will also be helpful for fighting any infection that may be developing.
Natural expectorants can help soothe a cough and clear the passages, making breathing easier for your horse.. Herbs such as Mullein and Marshmallow are 2 such herbs. Vitamins found in herbs can help restore damaged tissues and build up the immune system also.
Natural antihistamines have an important part to play when it comes to allergies. Horseradish is a lovely effective herb and can help reduce streaming eyes and some of the uncomfortable symptoms. Also calming down an over reactive nervous system with herbs such as chamomile is a great way to go.
It is most effective to start addressing allergy problems well before the season begins. If you work on building the immune system early then being prepared with your herbal toolkit then you will find it possible to make a real difference in your horses life.
By Jackie Rive http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Whats-in-Natures-Medicine-Chest-for-Horse-Allergies-and-Hayfever?&id=6559218] What's in Nature's Medicine Chest for Horse Allergies and Hayfever?
Does your horse suffer from allergies and hayfever like symptoms? Spring and summer can certainly be the time of year when such unpleasant problems can make themselves known. Just like humans, horses can suffer the horrible effects of hayfever but luckily there are some wonderful herbs available to ease the discomfort.
Hayfever in horses can often manifest as a recurrent cold like symptom with coughing and streaming eyes. It can be like a constant recurrent cold which your horse never seems to fully recover from. The lungs can become inflamed and your horse can be more susceptible to infections. Head shaking is another possible symptom. He may be tired and lethargic and generally seem quite miserable.
There are different causes to allergic respiratory problems. There are molds, spores and weeds which can be found in hay or even in the pastures during spring and summer. The body can become sensitive to these elements and cause an allergic reaction. When feeding hay it is wise to wet the hay so you are decreasing the dust element.
Your vet will be able to possibly find the cause using a procedure that looks at the fluid and cells in the horse's lungs to see how bad the allergy is. There is also a blood test that can determine what 'in fact your horse is allergic to which in turn will make it a lot easier to treat.
From a herbal perspective the horses immune system is usually seen to be quite low. You therefore can start treatment by boosting the immune system early in the season. Herbs such as Echinacea, Garlic. Rosehips and Kelp are all great general immune boosting herbs. Echinacea and Garlic will also be helpful for fighting any infection that may be developing.
Natural expectorants can help soothe a cough and clear the passages, making breathing easier for your horse.. Herbs such as Mullein and Marshmallow are 2 such herbs. Vitamins found in herbs can help restore damaged tissues and build up the immune system also.
Natural antihistamines have an important part to play when it comes to allergies. Horseradish is a lovely effective herb and can help reduce streaming eyes and some of the uncomfortable symptoms. Also calming down an over reactive nervous system with herbs such as chamomile is a great way to go.
It is most effective to start addressing allergy problems well before the season begins. If you work on building the immune system early then being prepared with your herbal toolkit then you will find it possible to make a real difference in your horses life.
By Jackie Rive http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Whats-in-Natures-Medicine-Chest-for-Horse-Allergies-and-Hayfever?&id=6559218] What's in Nature's Medicine Chest for Horse Allergies and Hayfever?
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