Teaching Young Horses To Go "FORWARD" Is Monumental For Success In The Breaking Process

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Beverly_Jansen]Beverly Jansen
Now that your youngster has learned to accept you on their back, doing figure eights at a walk and accepting the bit when asked to stop is a good beginning. This next step can be hard if you do not have a lead horse to help your baby understand that they not only need to go forward, but at a faster pace. Most young horses are not that willing to jog with you on their back. This is a new experience and a new feeling for them. Their whole life they have been able to run, jump, buck and play whenever THEY felt like it, not when someone asked or told them to. Usually you can get them to go a few strides but they will automatically go back down to a walk. Some of them will do this many, many, many times, because they do not want to do it or they are just not sure what it is that you are asking of them. This is where another horse in front of them comes in very handy. If your baby is in the shed row by themselves or in a paddock by themselves and you are trying to get them to jog and they are not liking it, as soon as they see another horse, especially if it is a friend of theirs, they usually are very happy to follow. Part of this is because their attention is on the other horse and not on you. So if their buddy jogs, well then, that's ok with me, I just want to be with another horse instead of being out in this paddock by myself. At this stage of the breaking process, try to travel the road to least resistance.
If you have a young horse that is being stubborn and just refuses to go forward, or even puts their head up in the air and tries to run off, then you may want to bring your lead horse next to your baby and see if that helps. Try to converse with the other person and stay very relaxed. If your youngster still is resistant, have the person on the other horse take a rope shank and snap it onto the babies' halter that is under the bridle. Take another five or ten minutes to try and help your baby to understand that you very much would like for them to move forward at a faster pace alongside the other horse. If they still are not giving you the results you want, just continue doing the best you can, staying calm, until the time is up and untack. The next day, make sure you have that same horse with your baby, snap the shank on again and repeat the same lesson. If you are not getting the results you should be getting, you may need to use another horse, which will be on the right side of the baby. Usually this is not necessary, I am just explaining in case you come upon this problem. If you feel it is necessary, you may need to use a riding crop, another name, a persuasion stick or whip. Personally, I have never used spurs on a young horse, I prefer a riding whip. This is not to be used to beat a horse up. It is to be used strategically at the right moment. If you are going to use a whip, make it count. When I was learning to break yearlings, you were allowed to use a stick, but if you just gave them a love tap, it was taken away. If you are going to use this valuable tool, you need to crack the horse on the rump, really mean it and leave it alone. If you are very stern they will get the message. Just be prepared at all times, when you are turning your stick on a youngster and are using it with conviction, be prepared for anything. Some babies will heed to your demands and that may be the one and only time that you will have to use this drastic measure. On the other hand, if you have a defiant baby that is in the attitude mode, you may be going for a rough ride. Some horses when you turn the stick on them will turn inside out because they have never had anything sting their butt like that before. The best case scenario is to have someone at their head, preferably on another horse or someone at their head on the ground.
Now your youngster has the idea that you really want them to go forward at a jog and keep going at a jog. Forward, forward, forward. You as the rider must keep this on your mind constantly when you are on your young horses back. As you are thinking forward, all of your body language will convey this to your horse and they will pick up on it and have a better understanding of what it is you are asking for. Once they have accepted the forward concept, half of the battle has been won. Now, take what you have taught them, work on the jogging until they are very good at responding to your commands. I cannot tell you exactly how many days or weeks but make sure they are good at jogging and paying attention to you on their back before you move on to the next step. Remember; keep it short, sweet and to the point. As the days progress, and your horse is becoming a little fit to the task and really is not minding it at all then you can move up to cantering or loping depending on your discipline. Always end on a positive note with your horse and lots of praise. They do not know the words that you are saying but they certainly understand the tone and excitement in your voice and the kindness in your heart. Again, I will be back shortly with more tips on making the breaking process an easy one.
Beverly Jansen http://bevshorseadvice.com
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC
I'm a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and now offer an exceptional, all natural horse product, Bev's Equine Magic Salve, that is above and beyond any other products in comparison and guarantees fantastic results. This salve can also be used on canine, feline, and livestock. Stay tuned as new products to follow!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Teaching-Young-Horses-To-Go-FORWARD-Is-Monumental-For-Success-In-The-Breaking-Process&id=6575971] Teaching Young Horses To Go "FORWARD" Is Monumental For Success In The Breaking Process

How to Successfully Get Through the Winter With Your Horses Routine

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_H_Cooper]John H Cooper
Going into the winter with your horses can be a daunting process. You know you're going to have limited day light and either you're going to have to do everything by touch light or get someone to help you do your horses which often means you then won't see them in the day light yourself for most of the week. Everyone pony owner hates the winter but it's one of the problems with living in England. My article is going to help you and advice you on how to successfully go through the winter without huge problems. If you prepare right you're going to get through as well as you possible can. I hope you find this article informative and useful.
Firstly don't forget that it's already getting dark out there by 7.30 so make sure you have your evening routine down to a 'T'. This may mean getting some of your things ready in the morning or preparing in bulk at the weekend. Bucket feeds can be made up in advance and stored. This means you only need to grab it to do them in the evening. Hay can be stored in a spare paddock near where they are grazing so you don't need to carry it from the yard. If you don't have the time to bring them onto the yard to sort rugs out and do not want to drag them back and from the yard you may wish to invent in a little locker which you can store at the entrance to your field and pop unused rugs in their.
Make sure you check your tack such as stirrups and leathers at the start of the winter. Stirrups and leathers will very quickly get damp once the cold weather comes and any items which are a little old will soon break so replace anything early on so you don't need to do it when it's dark. There is nothing worth than spending valuable riding time visiting the saddlery to pick up new items to ride in.
Don't forget to consider that something's may need to be bigger due to extra layers if you're cold. You may ride in bigger boots to prevent your feet from getting cold so stirrup iron sizes may need to be larger than you planned.
If you haven't got lights near where your horses are it may be worth investing in some so that you can see what you're doing. They are dangerous animals and looking after them in the dark isn't safe.
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Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Successfully-Get-Through-the-Winter-With-Your-Horses-Routine&id=6578286] How to Successfully Get Through the Winter With Your Horses Routine

How Do Equine Rugs Provide Ease to Horses?

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Aria_Lopez_Torres]Aria Lopez Torres
Equines are fantastic animals that require lots of attentiveness along with due care to become tamed and thrive while in the environment they reside in. Similar to humans, they've got varied necessities that needs to be satisfied to remain in a healthy condition as well as function up to their finest capability. In addition to good hygiene, food as well as shelter, equines likewise need the kind of peace which comes from equine rugs. This item is certainly not just a mere covering used on the equine's back. It is produced out of an assortment of fabric that is usually meant to at all times keep the horse cozy and protected from diverse external weather and also from unsafe insects.
The Best Choice Equine Rugs
While there is a diversified weather condition which can vary from one location to another, it is important to give some thought to this in choosing which rug will be ideal for your horse. A breathable blanket will definitely be most convenient for the duration of summer months. A number of these summer blankets aren't waterproof and are mostly produced to keep the equine unsoiled as much as possible when it rolls or lies down. Another one useful horse covering is a fly rug or precisely what is normally called fly sheets. As created from its name, fly rugs are utilized to guard the horse from flies and other insects that bite or sting.
Whenever the horse is resting inside stable, there are stable rugs which can be used to provide warming insulation to the equine. Stable rugs can be purchased from lightweight, medium weight and heavyweight material depending on the amount of filling they contain. They are being worn in accordance with the temperature of the region wherein the warmer the season, the lighter the stable rug that ought to be needed.
Equines should have some valuable time in the open air and they must stay protected against the cold. Throughout winter or cold season, turnout rugs are preferably in use.   rel=nofollow [http://kwsaddlery.com.au/equine-rugs]Turn-out-rugs are produced from lightweight to heavy materials to produce the recommended warmth to horses once they are being taken outdoors and even exposed to the freezing environment. How much warmth present in the turn out rug can be discovered depending on its weight rather than just thickness. This kind of rug is produced intentionally to withstand the cruel weather conditions.
Looking for the Type of Equine Rug
It is obligatory to keep the extraordinary coat of the horse to preserve its loveliness. Intense warmth of a rug definitely will result in horse shredding its coat and more often than not it can prevent the growth of the coat too. Apart from the climate or seasonal conditions, there are many points that must be thought-about to supply the specific warmth that the equine needs to have. Younger and healthy horse might require lesser warmth from equine rugs when compared to older and sickly equine. The ones with thicker coat will certainly have much less necessity for a rug as opposed to those with a finer coat, or have been clipped.

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Aria is a horse lover who wants to spend her leisure time horse riding. Being near to horses has a soothing effect to her stressful day.
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How to Bathe a Horse

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Donna_J_Diehl]Donna J Diehl
When bathing your horse start with the body. Using a shower setting or a mist setting, wet one section of the horse. Put shampoo on the area that you have already made wet. With a sponge or a rubber curry rub the area to get the dirt out. Rinse the area thoroughly. One section at a time, continue to do the rest of the horse's body. With your hand or with a sweat scraper remove the excess water left on the horse.
After washing the horse's coat you can then do the head. Depending on the horse's experience with bathing, there are several ways to wash the head. You can use the hose on the face if the horse is experienced with bathing. Use a light mist spray to wet it or use a sponge and release water down his face. You can take a wet towel with a small amount of shampoo on it followed by another clean wet towel to remove the dirt and shampoo for the less experienced horse. Take care that you do not get water in the horse's ears. Do not use shampoo near the nostrils, eyes, or mouth, just use a wet cloth.
To do the mane you may have to use a stool. Wet the mane thoroughly. To remind the horse to keep his head down you may have to put a hand on the bride of the nose. Put shampoo down the crest line of the mane but not too much. Rub vigorously to work up a lather. Make sure you scrub it thoroughly as dirt will most likely be hiding at the roots of the mane. Rinse all of the shampoo out of the mane and then rinse some more.
Make sure all of the tangles are out of the tail before washing. You can run your fingers through the tail to do this. If you wet the tail down with the tangles left in, it will be harder to get them out and the horse may lose some of his tail hair in the process. There are some good detangling products around that are good for taking tangles out. After wetting the tail down add the shampoo. With your fingers scrub the tail vigorously. Wash the underside of the dock. To see if you have removed all of the dirt, separate the tail hairs. Make sure that you get all the shampoo out of the tail. If you do not get all of the shampoo out of the tail the horse will rub the tail and lose tail hair this way. Always condition the tail after washing. Most of the water can be removed from the tail by squeezing it with a dry towel.
With a sponge or rubber mitt you can wash the horse's legs. He will know not to pick his leg up if you put your hand on his knee. Rinse thoroughly. You will want to remove the chestnuts and ergots.
You might want to condition his coat if your horse has dry skin or you are using a medicated shampoo. After diluting the conditioner pour it on his coat and work it in using your hands. Let it stand for a few minutes. Remove the excess with a sweat scraper if it is leave in conditioner. If it is rinse out conditioner, rinse it out with the hose and use the sweat scraper to remove the excess water. You should then condition the mane.
The tail and mane can be brushed out when they are almost dry. This is best done using a regular hair brush with wide bristles. Do not comb the tail and mane until after they have been brushed.
Bathing your horse is part of keeping your horse looking his best and keeping his coat in good condition. For more information on grooming your horse take a quick look at thebestofhorses.com.
TIP: Dilute the shampoo with water when washing your horse. Make it about eight parts water and one part shampoo. The diluted shampoo is much easier to rinse out than shampoo straight from the bottle.
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Horse Grooming and Equipment

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Donna_J_Diehl]Donna J Diehl
Grooming Your Horse
Your horse needs to look his best whenever you put him to work. The first thing anyone notices is the appearance of your horse. Your horse should look his best whether you are showing or just going on a ride down the street. Grooming massages the muscles and skin and also improves the circulation. A well groomed horse looks much healthier than an ungroomed horse.
To get the dandruff and deep dirt out use a curry comb to rough up the hair. The curry comb will also remove dried mud. To get the job done sufficient pressure should be used. Rubber curry combs are the most common but they come in many styles. There are round and square, rubber and metal. Which you like best depends on your preference. They all do a good job. When grooming your horse be sure you follow the lay of the coat.
The dandy brush or rice straw brushes are stiff harsh brushes. They will lift the dirt out and penetrate the hair if used in a rocking motion. You should not use this brush on the tender parts of the horse. Many owners use these brushes only and not a curry comb.
Use the body brush to clean and massage the skin after removing the mud. The body brush is much softer and is a finishing brush. They tend to add gloss to the coat by bringing oil into the hair. Use short circular strokes following the lay of the coat. Brush all parts of the body starting at the neck and working toward the tail. So that you do not get kicked when brushing the sensitive parts such as the inside of the leg stand to the side and close to the horse. Finish one side of the horse and then do the other side.
Brush the face after you are finished brushing the body. Use the soft brush only on the face. The curry comb and dandy brush are too harsh for the face. Use a damp sponge to clean the eyelids starting at the outside corner and sponging inward. Sponge around the lips and then sponge the nostrils. With a different sponge gently clean the whole area under the tail.
To remove the last particles of dirt and further enhance the shine use a rubbing cloth. You can slightly dampen the rubbing cloth and then wipe all over the body.
Run your fingers through the tail to help untangle it. Use a hair brush with soft ends or a body brush to brush out the tail. Start at the bottom of the tail and gradually work upward until the entire tail is finished. After removing the tangles you should then brush the mane.
Using a hoof pick clean your horse's feet making sure you remove all the dirt and mud. Apply oil to the hoof covering the entire hoof. Oil the sole also as this helps prevent mud and bedding from getting packed into the hoof.
After grooming your horse he will be ready for any activity that you have planned. For more information on horse's and their care take a quick look at   rel=nofollow http://www.thebestofhorses.com.
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Quarter Horse Blood Lines

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Joy_D_Cox]Joy D Cox
Back in the "old" days of the mid 1700's this special breed was labeled a "Quarter-of-a-mile-Runner, therefore the name Quarter Horse. The A. Q. H. A. was organized some 60 years ago to perpetuate this strain of horses that were so superior in speed, athletic ability and type.
The English Thoroughbred Race Horses were the fore-runners of these and when crossed with native American Colonial Horses, sprinters were known as Quarter Horses and distance horses who ran from a mile or more became known as Thoroughbreds.
Short races were most popular since Colonial days and the pedigrees of many of these horses have been preserved thru the years, even before these "Quarter Horses" became a "breed". This was used for racing and also developed the highest class of ranch horses. These tough, athletic horses held up well for the need of Ranchers who demanded a horse with cow sense, speed, endurance and a trainable disposition.
The Grandson of The Godolphin Arabian named "Janus" was the ideal type. He was a little over 14 hands, very strong boned, compact, with a short back with strong muscles. He was imported from England in 1752 and became the first Stallion to popularize the Quarter Horse type and he was a very successful sire who passed on his speed with great consistency. His influence carried on for many generations and most Horses of the A. Q. H. A. breed can be traced to this dominant early sire. It is probably a sure bet that Quarter Horse aficionados and breeders are not aware of the fact that most quarter Horses trace back to the Arabian Breed. Many of the early breeders infused the best thoroughbred blood they could get as the basis for their herds. It is a well known fact that all Thoroughbreds trace back to three Arabian Stallions, The Godolphin Arabian, The Byerley Turk, and The Darley Arabian. Broodmares also had heavy concentrations of this blood which was successfully infused into the first "Bulldog" type of conformation.
When the American Quarter Horse Association was in its formative stages, many thought that the "Bulldog" type was ideal. The association developed rules that encouraged the development of the "Bulldog" type. Ancestry demonstrates a surprising amount of Thoroughbred blood infused into the Quarter Horse.
60 years of hind-sight demonstrates that these early breeders knew exactly how to get the best. Select Thoroughbred out-crosses thru periodic infusions thru the blood of Janus, Sir Arehy, Peter McCue, Traveler, and Three Bars have given us the Quarter Horse that is the versatile athlete of today.
Joy Cox http://www.onlineanimalinfo.com
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Support Your Horse Supplements By Understanding First Aid

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_J_Phelps]Jennifer J Phelps
There are 2 common forms of first aid. On very minor injuries, first aid addresses the issue and no additional medical attention is required. The other kind is a stop-gap measure supplying immediate care until more skilled medical help will come. Every horse owner must come up with a first-aid kit and put it within the stable.
Keep your kit in the same location constantly so you always know where it is. It should be visibly branded. If another person has to find it during instances of emergency, that person should be able to do this swiftly. Plastic or steel toolboxes work nicely as first-aid kits. You can also buy a first-aid kit designed for horses. Listed here are first-aid supplies that are important to a well-stocked First Aid Kit. These items must be held in all Medical Kits.
First is a Stethoscope. You can examine and measure heart beat and stomach sound any time your horse is well to make a comparison when the horse is sick. Standard rate for a mature horse is about thirty to forty beats a minute and substantially higher for any nursing Mare. A foal is approximately sixty to eighty beats per minute. You will need Iodine Solution which is diluted. Any fresh injuries should be flushed out with this solution. Only use Peroxide to flush serious wounds or holes. Use saline to purge wounds after making use of anti bacterial washes and just before wrapping the wound.
Use Sterile Gauze Sponges when cleaning the injured area with a Diluted Iodine Solution. The Self-Adhesive Tape props up Gauze to the wound. The tape is readily utilized and eradicated. Get in the habit of checking your first-aid kit frequently. Take stock of every item to make sure that you have everything you need. Check out the expiration dates of the medications, and replace any that are out of date. Open wounds which will not get medical assistance for several hours or more must be flushed out with clean water, wrapped with a bandage and should be applied with an antibacterial cream. A garden hose with the nozzle fixed on a firm spray is ideal for flushing.
Horse Supplements will help your horse become more resistant to bacterial infections. If a wound is to be stitched, flushing and bandaging may help minimize infection until the wound may be sutured. Avoid applying medications to the wound, since they may interfere with healing. If medical help is over two hours away consult the opinion of the veterinarian about what you might dress the wound with. Seek veterinarian advice when the wound is large or if you are not comfortable in treating the injured horse yourself. [http://www.royalchampion.com]Horse supplements specialists have various advice and expert opinions on how you take good care of your beloved equines using the supreme [http://royalchampion.com/horse-vitamin-supplement.aspx]horse Vitamins in their day-to-day diet regime.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Support-Your-Horse-Supplements-By-Understanding-First-Aid&id=6421209] Support Your Horse Supplements By Understanding First Aid